Power FC From your Commanders, What # of Water Temp do you read?
#1
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From your Commanders, What # of Water Temp do you read?
Hi,
From your Commanders, What # of Water Temp do you read? I read 92 C, is it normal? Please give me some information.
From your Commanders, What # of Water Temp do you read? I read 92 C, is it normal? Please give me some information.
#2
sold the FD...kept the FB
This has been covered several times in other threads, I think. Have you done a search at all?
My car likes to stay at 87 or 88. It really never goes over 90. However, I have done a lot to get it to behave that way. 92 is not horrible, I’ve seen / heard of worse, but it can be better. What’s the weather like up there right now? Ambient temperature makes a big difference.
My car likes to stay at 87 or 88. It really never goes over 90. However, I have done a lot to get it to behave that way. 92 is not horrible, I’ve seen / heard of worse, but it can be better. What’s the weather like up there right now? Ambient temperature makes a big difference.
Last edited by FD Racer; 08-17-02 at 06:15 AM.
#5
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I took my a/c out (because this car was never meant to have it) but I drive with the a/c button on.........car runs fans that way. With 90-95F and 90 humidity, I get 86-88C on the PFC with fans on.
#6
sold the FD...kept the FB
Originally posted by ccw998
Today, I saw 95 C on my commander in traffic. What should I do??
Today, I saw 95 C on my commander in traffic. What should I do??
-get a upgraded aluminum radiator
-run 15% coolant, and a bottle of redline water wetter OR some of NEO co. "Keep Cool", and distilled water of course.
-remove the A/C.
-get a vented hood
-remove the rubber liner under the hood, where it meets the body by the windshield, for better airflow
-downpipe, no cat
-remove foglamps and license plate, and optimize airflow area by covering holes by radiator. Especially where the bottom of the radiator meets the plastic under cover, put some foam there.
Thats pretty much what I've done off the top of my head
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#8
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They're referring to the FC Datalogit software, which has a feature enabling you to adjust the temp the fans turn on.
www.fc-datalogit.co.nz
www.fc-datalogit.co.nz
#9
Weird Cat Man
When the ambient temps are 95 degrees F or so like they have been the last few months here in DC, I see around 85-87 C on the commander under normal mixed driving.
If I get on the boost for a long time like all through 3rd, 4th, and part of 5th, it can go up to about 92 C.
Relavent mods:
Fluidyne rad
no a/c or p/s
single turbo making 400 rwhp
Brian
If I get on the boost for a long time like all through 3rd, 4th, and part of 5th, it can go up to about 92 C.
Relavent mods:
Fluidyne rad
no a/c or p/s
single turbo making 400 rwhp
Brian
#10
Rotary Master
Under normal driving conditions, here in DC, I have been seeing between 90-95 degrees sometimes the high 80s when on the highway, but usually around 90-92 degrees,
You don't want the coolant or oil too cold, same thing with it being too hot.
Sometimes, with those huge radiators and oil coolers i the winter, can be really bad on the engine. They can be too effient.
You don't want the coolant or oil too cold, same thing with it being too hot.
Sometimes, with those huge radiators and oil coolers i the winter, can be really bad on the engine. They can be too effient.
#11
sold the FD...kept the FB
Originally posted by Johnsrx7
Under normal driving conditions, here in DC, I have been seeing between 90-95 degrees sometimes the high 80s when on the highway, but usually around 90-92 degrees,
You don't want the coolant or oil too cold, same thing with it being too hot.
Sometimes, with those huge radiators and oil coolers i the winter, can be really bad on the engine. They can be too effient.
Under normal driving conditions, here in DC, I have been seeing between 90-95 degrees sometimes the high 80s when on the highway, but usually around 90-92 degrees,
You don't want the coolant or oil too cold, same thing with it being too hot.
Sometimes, with those huge radiators and oil coolers i the winter, can be really bad on the engine. They can be too effient.
#13
Weird Cat Man
Just for some more data:
Took my car to Summit Point (road course) and ran hard all day. I only ran 11 psi, instead of my normal 14.
Water temps were between about 100-104 once I had made several laps. This doesn't seem that great to me so I didn't push it up to 14 PSI. I was hitting 145 mph on the straight with no problem lap after lap, so I was pushing it pretty hard.
Perhaps a new front end would help? I already have a Fluidyne....
Brian
Took my car to Summit Point (road course) and ran hard all day. I only ran 11 psi, instead of my normal 14.
Water temps were between about 100-104 once I had made several laps. This doesn't seem that great to me so I didn't push it up to 14 PSI. I was hitting 145 mph on the straight with no problem lap after lap, so I was pushing it pretty hard.
Perhaps a new front end would help? I already have a Fluidyne....
Brian
#17
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"has an fd ever been guilty of being too cold????"
If it's too cold the double throttle plates can close on you. So don't go using the datalogit to turn the fans on at 60 degrees or anything.
--------
on a really hot day 95 is fine - or so I've been told by someone I trust. I used to get those temps, but after a Fluidine read. and adjusting the fans with the datalogit I now see a high of 90-91 while stuck in the worst traffic. 87-89 on the road.
Here is some raw info:
The Base setting for the PFC won't turn the fan on until 95 with the A/C on, and 100 without the AC. It won't turn the fans on HIGH until 105.
The PFC starts to retard ignition after 90 degrees C, with maximum retard of 6 degrees (retard) at 120 degrees (Temp)
The Datalogit and the Dealer software (Power Excel) are the only ways to change these values.
If it's too cold the double throttle plates can close on you. So don't go using the datalogit to turn the fans on at 60 degrees or anything.
--------
on a really hot day 95 is fine - or so I've been told by someone I trust. I used to get those temps, but after a Fluidine read. and adjusting the fans with the datalogit I now see a high of 90-91 while stuck in the worst traffic. 87-89 on the road.
Here is some raw info:
The Base setting for the PFC won't turn the fan on until 95 with the A/C on, and 100 without the AC. It won't turn the fans on HIGH until 105.
The PFC starts to retard ignition after 90 degrees C, with maximum retard of 6 degrees (retard) at 120 degrees (Temp)
The Datalogit and the Dealer software (Power Excel) are the only ways to change these values.
#18
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Anyone notice any temperature differences between the commander and a aftermarket guage? My guage and the commander are always at about the same temp. except under highway cruising. My guage will be at around 80C while the commander never shows below 85C. It also seems to react slowly to temperature changes.
#19
Adrenaline
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My water temp is always at 81C, even when I'm sitting in traffic. I have the huge *** GReddy 3 row front mount to. Next week I'm going to try to try to lower the water temp by doing some fabrications on my FD
Also, you should never use Water Wetter in a rotary engine. This is from an extremely reliable source, and not your stupid bs stories that comes from this board. If you like your FD to be reliable, get rid of the Water Wetter and use it on a piston engine.
Also, you should never use Water Wetter in a rotary engine. This is from an extremely reliable source, and not your stupid bs stories that comes from this board. If you like your FD to be reliable, get rid of the Water Wetter and use it on a piston engine.
Last edited by RecKleSs; 10-17-03 at 08:24 AM.
#21
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You guys need to relax. If you still have the A/C condenser and you don't have the fans turning on really early, your temps will climb to the upper 90s C in traffic. Hell, the stock ecu doesn't even turn the fans on LOW until 105C.
As long as your temps stay at 100C or below, your fine IMO. If it climbs up to 105C or so on really hot days or at the track, it's no big deal.
On the track, the temps go up very quickly on a hot day. You should always pull the A/C relay and run the fans on HIGH continously at the track.
As long as your temps stay at 100C or below, your fine IMO. If it climbs up to 105C or so on really hot days or at the track, it's no big deal.
On the track, the temps go up very quickly on a hot day. You should always pull the A/C relay and run the fans on HIGH continously at the track.
#24
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on hot day, i see low 90's to low 100's (mixed city driving)
on cold night, i see mid 80's (highway driving)
im thinking of getting Datalogit and lower the fan setting a little bit.
on cold night, i see mid 80's (highway driving)
im thinking of getting Datalogit and lower the fan setting a little bit.
#25
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Mine usually runs at 88C. If I stop (lights etc.) it can go as high as 95C. Takes quite a while to go back down too - 1 to 2 minutes. On a long (10km) steep hill in 85 deg F weather this summer, it reached 106C. Still a long way from boilling - 50/50 glycol mix should boil at around 135C (according to the container). My cooling system is still pretty much stock - except for the Greedy pulley and AST (aluminum). I did the linearization mod. of the stock temp. gauge. From what I can gather, the temp. at the filler neck (where the Apex'i measures it) is lower than at the rear rotor housing (where the stock gauge probe is) by around 10C (based on the linearization calibration and gauge readout).
I doubt we in Alberta could boil the coolant unless we had a serious problem. Just happy to never see 90+ deg F days like you poor guys in the south. Maybe you'd like to trade for some -40 deg days? ;-)
I doubt we in Alberta could boil the coolant unless we had a serious problem. Just happy to never see 90+ deg F days like you poor guys in the south. Maybe you'd like to trade for some -40 deg days? ;-)