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Power FC What are "normal" water temp correction settings?

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Old 11-03-09 | 03:30 AM
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red_dragon's Avatar
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What are "normal" water temp correction settings?

I've been playing around with the water temp correction settings and I just can't figure it out. At various temperatures, if I stomp the gas, at idle, the rpms drop momentarily and then jump up. I've been adjusting the water temp correction upwards pretty arbitrarily and now I've ended up with values like 1.2 for 50C+ and 1.2 for 80C+. Is that even close to what everyone else has?

Just for reference, I have all the bolt ons, 1300cc secondaries and a mild streetport.
Old 11-03-09 | 06:36 PM
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From: cold
Do you have a wideband? Do you have a Datalogit? This sounds like a tip-in issue. It's tough to get tip-in configured correctly when the engine is cold. There are no specific tip-in water temp correction map.
Old 11-05-09 | 12:00 AM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
Do not confuse the acceleration table with the water temp correction.
************************************************** *************

First off there is the INJ vs Air temp table to increase fuel flow due to denser air, or reduce fuel for less dense air. This table keeps your AFRs constant when the inlet air temps change. This table is for an engine at operational water temp.

The acceleration table is to help prevent leanness when sudden throttle movements are made. This leanness is more like the stumble you are mentioning.
Carbs have a mechanical pumps to quickly add extra fuel for this. Our FI system uses the acceleration injector table along with the inj vs accel TPS table.

A cold engine does not evaporate fuel very well into a vapor that can burn smoothly. Thus a colder engine needs more fuel to accomplish a smoother burn.
Carbs use either chokes to increase suction on the jets or manual richer idler jets.
Our FI system uses this table to add more fuel for when the engine is colder than the normal operational temperature. The left column is for idle/low load and the right column is for heavy load. You adjust the left side while the engine is idling by finding the setting for each temp that is about in the middle or slightly leaner than the midpoint between rpm drop from being too rich or too lean. Then either use the same value for the right column of make it 5% richer.

But your problem could also be caused by cells too lean around your idle area.

Stuff like this is in my PFC/DL advanced tuning concepts.
Old 11-05-09 | 01:28 PM
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From: cold
Yes, the acceleration and water temp functions are very different. What I was trying to say is, if you have tip-in problems only when the engine is cold (I've seen this), there is no table that specifically modifies tip-in for different water temps. I have seen other EMS's that do have that capability (AEM EMS for example).
Old 11-06-09 | 06:52 AM
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hmmm interesting. I do have a wideband sitting around that I'm about to put in. I'll have to do that first I suppose before anything else can be deduced.
Old 11-11-09 | 10:21 PM
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Alright I installed the WB, but I'm having trouble actually understanding it. I idle at 11-12 ish which I understand is really rich (with air pump plug disconnected). While cruising I see 12-13ish. Also my WB seems to lag behind about half a second (probably because of the distance from the turbo). When I get on a little bit of boost though (1-2psi?) the afrs creep to 14 ish. I got scared so I let off. Oh and also for context, I was tuned by Steve a while ago with stock injectors and stock cat. I dropped in some 1300cc secondaries, cleaned primaries, a HF cat and I'm waiting for a tune.

What are ideal AFRs? I remember 10-11 was recommended for WOT, but what about low throttle with and without boost? I'm also afraid to get on the throttle in order to find out what the AFRs are, so is there a safer way to do this?
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