Power FC Reading the Apexi Controller please Help!!
#1
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Reading the Apexi Controller please Help!!
I have the following mods and have a few questions for the experts because I'm not!!! I bought my 93 Rx7 with 20,614 original miles. I had the following mods done immediately upon the purchase: DP, MP, Exhaust, Apexi chip, 1600 cc injectors, M2 cold air box, short shifter, clutch, bov, and a few other minor things. My car was dyno and tuned at 304 to the rear wheel. I would like a little more but don't want to blow my engine or turbos up. I have the Apexi Controller but have no idea of how to read the thing. I want to know what my boost is set at for sure and possibly if I could find out the AFR would be good. I don't want to adjust anything myself, I just would like to view those stats. When I look at my boost psi gauge I notice it doesn't even go up to at least 9 psi when I floor the car. Also the car smells so bad everytime I start it because from what I'm told its running very very rich. Would it be ok to lean it out a little bit so my clothes don't smell like gas and when I go to light a cigerette I could light it close to the car without being blown up? Well if anyone could help me, I'd appreciate it without mocking my unintellectuall knowledge of this vehicle. Thanks.
Last edited by BMWLAND; 04-13-05 at 09:20 PM.
#2
This link should help you out. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to play around with the PFC I sold you so I can't offer any first-hand experience about its features.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu...on/powerFC.pdf
http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu...on/powerFC.pdf
Last edited by J_J; 04-14-05 at 04:03 AM.
#3
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the Apexi commander doesn't show you AFR, but as far as reading it, it is pretty straightforward to check what your boost settings are on it. Just go into settings and go to boost where you'll see your 2 options labeled 1 and 2. Whatever one is highlighted is the one that you're currently using.
Also, your car stinks because you have no cats. If you're running very rich it sounds like you need to have it tuned properly but even if it's tuned properly your still gonna stink like all hell.
Also, your car stinks because you have no cats. If you're running very rich it sounds like you need to have it tuned properly but even if it's tuned properly your still gonna stink like all hell.
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Originally Posted by BMWLAND
I have the following mods and have a few questions for the experts because I'm not!!! I bought my 93 Rx7 with 20,614 original miles. I had the following mods done immediately upon the purchase: DP, MP, Exhaust, Apexi chip, 1600 cc injectors, M2 cold air box, short shifter, clutch, bov, and a few other minor things. My car was dyno and tuned at 304 to the rear wheel. I would like a little more but don't want to blow my engine or turbos up. I have the Apexi Controller but have no idea of how to read the thing. I want to know what my boost is set at for sure and possibly if I could find out the AFR would be good. I don't want to adjust anything myself, I just would like to view those stats. When I look at my boost psi gauge I notice it doesn't even go up to at least 9 psi when I floor the car. Also the car smells so bad everytime I start it because from what I'm told its running very very rich. Would it be ok to lean it out a little bit so my clothes don't smell like gas and when I go to light a cigerette I could light it close to the car without being blown up? Well if anyone could help me, I'd appreciate it without mocking my unintellectuall knowledge of this vehicle. Thanks.
Where did you get this dyno tuned? Whoever tuned it should have given you a dyno plot with the A/F ratios. I hope you at least had it done at a shop that specializes in RX7s otherwise you probably running too lean already.
Don't up the boost till you know what kind of A/F ratios your car has been tuned for and to what PSi it has been tuned to. Unless of course you feel like spending a boatload of money on a new motor and turbos
Your PowerFC can display boost settings in metric readings kg^mm or something like that. Go to the PowerFC forum and check out the stickies for the instructions. This should allow you to configure the "monitor" settings so you can read the boost pressure from the Commander. The Commander displays in metric no PSI. Do a search on "conversion formula" and you should find a thread with the math on how to convert to PSI.
Regarding smelly clothes - install a cat. It is well known that if you are running a midpipe its going to smell. Read the newbie stickies and use the frickin search button. Leaning it out isn't going to help the smell.
Good luck.
#5
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i would invest in a wideband O2 setup BEFORE touching anything in the PFC.....as it will not read AFR's and even the boost readings are less than adequate.......a good electronic gauge and a wideband should allow you to tune with confidence....but until you aquire these...stay away from those correction maps.....
#6
this might help...
http://www.processassociates.com/pro...ert/cf_prs.htm
The PFC reads boost in kgf/cm² but it also reads vacuum in mmHG, this confused the hell outta me for about 2 months. I saw someone make a little diagram that could help you...
your car under wot:
|-------------------------o-----------------------|
[-]mmHG (vacuum) [+]kgf/cm² (boost)
Your computer wont start to read boost immidiately, if you go from WOT in low rpms it can take a while depending on your turbo set up (non-seq for me I dont start boosting until like 4k under wot) to see boost
I had a similar situation to yours only my engine was a rebuilt aggresive port job. The car runs way rich (still) and never seems to get to full boost - but to check you have to go wot in 3rd gear all the way to redline, for me Ive never had that much road unless I set it to like 7lbs of boost, at the top of 3rd gear your going pretty fast.
To check your boost settings using the PFC go to the main menu and hit settings then scroll around to boost. Should look like
X kgf/cm² y%
X` kgf/cm² y`% (secondary)
and then other stuff... :P
X is what your boost is set to, if your running 9lbs it should be around .6 or .65 kgf/cm²
I actually dont know what the % means, could someone fill me in on that stat?
http://www.processassociates.com/pro...ert/cf_prs.htm
The PFC reads boost in kgf/cm² but it also reads vacuum in mmHG, this confused the hell outta me for about 2 months. I saw someone make a little diagram that could help you...
your car under wot:
|-------------------------o-----------------------|
[-]mmHG (vacuum) [+]kgf/cm² (boost)
Your computer wont start to read boost immidiately, if you go from WOT in low rpms it can take a while depending on your turbo set up (non-seq for me I dont start boosting until like 4k under wot) to see boost
I had a similar situation to yours only my engine was a rebuilt aggresive port job. The car runs way rich (still) and never seems to get to full boost - but to check you have to go wot in 3rd gear all the way to redline, for me Ive never had that much road unless I set it to like 7lbs of boost, at the top of 3rd gear your going pretty fast.
To check your boost settings using the PFC go to the main menu and hit settings then scroll around to boost. Should look like
X kgf/cm² y%
X` kgf/cm² y`% (secondary)
and then other stuff... :P
X is what your boost is set to, if your running 9lbs it should be around .6 or .65 kgf/cm²
I actually dont know what the % means, could someone fill me in on that stat?
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Originally Posted by `sl!mXP
Your computer wont start to read boost immidiately, if you go from WOT in low rpms it can take a while depending on your turbo set up (non-seq for me I dont start boosting until like 4k under wot) to see boost
I had a similar situation to yours only my engine was a rebuilt aggresive port job. The car runs way rich (still) and never seems to get to full boost - but to check you have to go wot in 3rd gear all the way to redline, for me Ive never had that much road unless I set it to like 7lbs of boost, at the top of 3rd gear your going pretty fast.
I had a similar situation to yours only my engine was a rebuilt aggresive port job. The car runs way rich (still) and never seems to get to full boost - but to check you have to go wot in 3rd gear all the way to redline, for me Ive never had that much road unless I set it to like 7lbs of boost, at the top of 3rd gear your going pretty fast.
#9
Originally Posted by rynberg
The computer sees boost immediately....it's your car that takes forever to boost and obviously has a boost problem. If you've never had enough road to run out 3rd gear, why do you even have this car?
The reason I havent had enough road is because I live in pittsburgh and its been winter since I bought the car - and I dont like to drive it hard in the winter.
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Originally Posted by `sl!mXP
oh **** I thought it was because I was running non-seq. When im at 2,000 rpms and go WOT should it go to 10lbs or whatever I set it to immidiately? Usually its still showing vacuum until 4000 rpms and then it just keeps rising to whatever I set it to. Is this a boost leak?
The reason I havent had enough road is because I live in pittsburgh and its been winter since I bought the car - and I dont like to drive it hard in the winter.
The reason I havent had enough road is because I live in pittsburgh and its been winter since I bought the car - and I dont like to drive it hard in the winter.
do yourself a *big* favor and take the car by a rotary *specialist* like KD Rotary in PA and have a professional check it out. your perception of what people are saying and our perception of what you are telling us is happening could be two different things entirely. you won't know till someone who has a clue physically looks at it.
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Originally Posted by `sl!mXP
oh **** I thought it was because I was running non-seq. When im at 2,000 rpms and go WOT should it go to 10lbs or whatever I set it to immidiately? Usually its still showing vacuum until 4000 rpms and then it just keeps rising to whatever I set it to. Is this a boost leak?
The reason I havent had enough road is because I live in pittsburgh and its been winter since I bought the car - and I dont like to drive it hard in the winter.
The reason I havent had enough road is because I live in pittsburgh and its been winter since I bought the car - and I dont like to drive it hard in the winter.
Are you running non-seq because of a seq problem you couldn't diagnose or is it by choice? The reason I ask is running non-seq on a close-to-stock car pretty much makes the car a complete dog to drive and is really unfun. I have no idea how anyone could drive the car that way and think it's a great car.
Well, I applaud your restraint in less than ideal weather conditions.
#13
The engine is worked over pretty well, rotorsports did a port job and 3mm seals, i have 850 and 1600 injectors, 255lph fuel pump, pfc, m2 large smic, full intake and exhaust etc. The turbos were also rebuilt before they were set non-seq. I've been running the car on 10 and 7lbs of boost since I got it, using the pfc to control it.
The previous owner did all the engine work and since I got the car I havent touched anything apart from changing fluids, I've been too busy fixing body work and interior stuff that the previous owner smashed up. I spent the entire winter working on the wheels and interior and since february ive been fixing the paint and body. I just always assumed that thats how the boost worked - I was told that rotorsports tuned it and I just took the previous owners word that it was just how it ran, but apparently I was pretty wrong... I bought the car because it had a recently rebuilt engine and I just thought everything would be good and ready to drive.
I took alberto's advice and contacted KD hopefully they can help me out. Is there anything I can check on in the meantime? The boost gauge and PFC read that I am getting good vacuum.
Thanks for all the help also i appreciate it.
The previous owner did all the engine work and since I got the car I havent touched anything apart from changing fluids, I've been too busy fixing body work and interior stuff that the previous owner smashed up. I spent the entire winter working on the wheels and interior and since february ive been fixing the paint and body. I just always assumed that thats how the boost worked - I was told that rotorsports tuned it and I just took the previous owners word that it was just how it ran, but apparently I was pretty wrong... I bought the car because it had a recently rebuilt engine and I just thought everything would be good and ready to drive.
I took alberto's advice and contacted KD hopefully they can help me out. Is there anything I can check on in the meantime? The boost gauge and PFC read that I am getting good vacuum.
Thanks for all the help also i appreciate it.
#15
We work on a lot of RX7's here- and often get cars that have weird setups- but I am absolutely certain we have never seen nor set up a car with 850 primaries and 1600 secondaries with stock or even parallel twin turbos. This would be a real PITA to get any driveabilty for a streetcar!
#16
We work on a lot of RX7's here- and often get cars that have weird setups- but I am absolutely certain we have never seen nor set up a car with 850 primaries and 1600 secondaries with stock or even parallel twin turbos. This would be a real PITA to get any driveabilty for a streetcar! If you have any questions regarding the car or any work history, please feel free to contact us- I would be very interested in hearing about any services we performed on this car.
Regards,
Bryan Smith
Rotorsports Racing Inc.
Regards,
Bryan Smith
Rotorsports Racing Inc.
#17
oh sorry that was a typo on my part they are 1300 secondaries not 1600, i dunno freudian slip maybe i was reading about someones single turbo.
Not like its legal on the 1300s either...
Not like its legal on the 1300s either...
#18
Are you guys familiar with the work on my engine? I dunno, you guys probably do a lot of jobs, I have the receipt here its invoice # 6202 from 8/23/2004 its for an engine removal, port, etc. and it has written on it owner supplied atkins 3mm overhaul kit.
When you guys put the engine together I assume the turbos running OK right? I bought this car in November of 2004 only 2 months after this receipt is dated and I havent touched the engine since KD rotary said it sounds like it could be a boost controller issue
When you guys put the engine together I assume the turbos running OK right? I bought this car in November of 2004 only 2 months after this receipt is dated and I havent touched the engine since KD rotary said it sounds like it could be a boost controller issue
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With full exhaust and intake/IC, you should be getting full boost by 4000 rpm at the latest, and should be developing boost by 3200 rpm or so (or earlier).
Take it to KD. If you have poor-mans non-seq, I would switch it back to seq and see how you like it....
Take it to KD. If you have poor-mans non-seq, I would switch it back to seq and see how you like it....
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Originally Posted by BMWLAND
I have the following mods and have a few questions for the experts because I'm not!!! I bought my 93 Rx7 with 20,614 original miles. I had the following mods done immediately upon the purchase: DP, MP, Exhaust, Apexi chip, 1600 cc injectors, M2 cold air box, short shifter, clutch, bov, and a few other minor things. My car was dyno and tuned at 304 to the rear wheel. I would like a little more but don't want to blow my engine or turbos up. I have the Apexi Controller but have no idea of how to read the thing. I want to know what my boost is set at for sure and possibly if I could find out the AFR would be good. I don't want to adjust anything myself, I just would like to view those stats. When I look at my boost psi gauge I notice it doesn't even go up to at least 9 psi when I floor the car. Also the car smells so bad everytime I start it because from what I'm told its running very very rich. Would it be ok to lean it out a little bit so my clothes don't smell like gas and when I go to light a cigerette I could light it close to the car without being blown up? Well if anyone could help me, I'd appreciate it without mocking my unintellectuall knowledge of this vehicle. Thanks.
John
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Originally Posted by Jodeny
Why dont you bring it back to the shop that did the work on it? I hope this isn't the case but it seems you took a fine running 20k mile RX-7 that was PERFECT and pretty much ruined it by doing unecessary mods. The car is probably slower now than when it was stock. Whomever did the mods for you should have made sure it was running correctly, if they didn't then you were ripped off. Now it needs to be tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.
John
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