tookwik

How accurate is the coolant temperature reading on the PFC? I have recently been reading close to 100 degrees CELCIUS on my PFC and it has really been freaking me out. Is this okay or am I doing/missing something way wrong? I even starting going to a 70%/30% coolant/water repectively mixture. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Mine is within 5 degrees of my autometer water temp gauge.

tookwik

Ok so 100 degrees Celcius isn't abnormal and should be expected on a hot summer day with a larger radiator?

Trevor

100C is not a big deal.

If your fans are on high and you're still seeing 103C with conventional coolant I would start looking to improve things.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

My water temp with a FMIC does not go above 87C with A/C on and cruising 70mph. If you get 100C in normal driving with A/C, then either you have a cooling problem or your PFC fan control temps are too high. Yes it is abnormal!!!!!!!!

Trevor

OK Chuck...so you stay cool cruising when at 70MPH at an un-specified ambient temp. What's your stop and go coolant temps with the A/C on when its 98-101F there in Houston?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The highest so far this summer in stop and go traffic and A/C running was 89C. Air intake temp was 40C, outside air temp at the airport over grass was about 97F.

My fans are set at 86/86/88. I run 25% Dexcool, 75% distilled water, and 1 bottle Water Wetter. M2 radiator with 16PSI rad cap. A little custom ducting because of my FMIC. See single "shark" tooth to lower the bottom chin 1"?

I even left the right side of the rad opened where I use to have the M2 cold air box. Left this opened to get more cold air to the single turbo air filter at speed and to also cool the exhaust more.

tookwik

The temperature I was getting was in stop and go traffic with my fans off. (I just realized that about the fans). I changed the temperature the fans come on now and I haven't seen a temperature above 93 today when I normally would have seen about 99 by this point. One last question, how big of a deal is it to use distilled water instead of just tap water in the coolant system?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Normal water causes mineral build up through out the complete cooling system and reduces it's capacity to cool. VERY VERY important to use the cleanest water posible.

Tap water is the reason house water heaters usually go bad and why commecial heaters and boilers need periodic cleaning.

Trevor

89C huh? That's downright amazing...your T-stat wasn't even 3/4 open even though temps were pushing 97F, your A/C was on, and you were barely moving.

I (and most of the board) would kill for temps that cool.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

i can usually keep my temps between 83-87c. I just have the fans running all the time.

Madmax670

I am sure cewrx7r1 has a pretty well thought out IC and rad. setup, I have found his posts to be very cojent and helpful on the subject (and I do believe i have seen some pics of his engine bay ), mind posting those pics?

Banis

i set my fans also for 86/86/88 and since then i haven't seen a temp above 92c in bad traffic, normal 70-80 cruise i see 86-88c with high 90's temps outside with a/c. with a 60% water 40%coolant mix and a bottle of water wetter also.

rx74evers

iTrader: (6)

Add some WATER WETTER from REDLINE it should transfer more heat better to cool your Engine. Just one bottle is more then enough.

tookwik

well I've got an issue again because my average is about 95C recently in our 90 degree weather days. The wierd part is that my temps go about 100C when I cruise on the interstate... the cool down when I slow down.

mad_7tist

not a whole lot of reason to run 70% coolant 30% water like you said in your first post unless you mentioned it backwards...

TwinTurbo_SE7EN

I never see my temps go above 89C. Fluidyne and 50/50 prestone. PFC with temps set to 87/89/89. This is in the latest heat wave here in TN. 101-105 F.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Check the condition of the foam strip on your belly pan. Most flatten out as they get older, thus eliminating the seal where it mates up to the bottom of your radiator. Mine was flat and I experienced the same thing you're describing (temps climbed at speed, but came down when slowing). Get a new fatter foam strip from Ace Hardware (window air conditioner foam) and some double-sided carpet tape and replace that sucka and also seal up any areas on the sides of your rad/AC condensor where air can escape and I guarantee that you'll see a noted improvement in your temps at speed.

I operated two weeks ago here in Phoenix on a 114F day with the AC on cruising at 80 mph and my temps were between 97 and 99C.

tookwik

well i do have a PWR radiator and FMIC. I do not have a undercarriage liner though... I'm thinking this could be part of the problem

Iwan

definitely !

I'm running FMIC and Koyo rad with low temp thermostat. Never see more than 80°C at normal driving with FAN off. I have build an air- duct directly to my rad, so the air can only pass through the rad.

REgards
Iwan

Madmax670

I currently have the underbelly pan off of my car with a Blitz FMIC and Fluidyne in a vertical position. I never see temps over 92 C, even on 100 F. temperature days. I am worried that if I put the underbelly pan back on I will see higher temps, what do you all think?

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Max,

Just try it and see what happens. Based on your description, it sounds like you've adopted kind of a V-mount position for your rad. With that being said, adding the belly pan would eliminate your design's ability to vent air via the bottom of the car. However, the only way to truly know for sure is to install the belly pan and take her for a test drive. My bet is that you will not see any improvement over you're already decent temps.

tookwik

So with the fmic and PWR radiator in the upright position I SHOULD put the undertray on and expect my temps to be lower? This is the only other reason I can think of.

I'm still lost on why my temps go UP on the interstate and DOWN in traffic.