Here is a collection of mostly whored maps which are probably unsafe for your vehicle but I ran a few of these myself with good results (please use common sense).

A link to my collection:
http://3rotor.jp/downloads/PowerFC/PowerFC_Maps.zip

One Excel workbook I'd like to draw attention to is included in the archive.
Tuning-calculation.xls will help you roughly tune your car to a drivable state. It has included directions on how to use it as well as a few interesting sheets for a 3D representation of your fuel map (which I used to find irregularities in my maps).

I've included BDC's collection (info: https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/oct-11-2008-updated-base-maps-793180/) but he may have updated or corrected these maps.

 

I would highly recommend sending a PM to cewrx7r1 and ask about joining his PowerFC group. He's got a lot of good & solid information in there.

 

fuel is pretty easy for the most part (and easy to monitor with the WB02)

my head scratcher is the bloody timing..

I don't why the stock is so unsmooth and all over the place on the PFC..

I have friends who have PFC's on their piston motor cars

they all leave the stock map.. and keep raising timing till they see knock and then take it back a few ticks..

i'm afraid to use this approach for obvious reasons.. as i don't want to grenade ur motor..

and the thought of just using excel graphs to make pretty rainbows that doesn't overlap seems pretty hap hazard as well..

I live in the middle of no where with no rotary experts...

i work on the car myself, I overhauled the motor myself.. and now I have to tune it myself..

but haven't found a solid theory as to How i should go about tuning the timing

 

what do use to open the dat files with?

 

The dat files are PFC maps downloaded with the Datalogit software.

I looket at a few (not BDCs) and consider the timing too hot!

 

Ottoman,

read through the single turbo forum archive. The threads "advancing timing at high rpm" and "how many run zero split" are a good place to start to read about the theory of a timing map and what some people are running. The rest is just looking at a crapload of other people's timing maps (and it's important to know what kind of setup each map was for) and comparing them to each other. Then when you get on the dyno it can be a bit tricky because you may change the timing a few degrees here and there and it won't appear to do anything. It won't change the readings on the crap stock knock sensor nor will it add much power.

That's kind of why I am going with the dual digital EGT setup that Howard Coleman uses (search 3rd gen forum).

 

i tried to open the ones posted above and they didnt work, but the BDC mapps came up fine.

 

if you start looking at peoples maps... I've studied and compared probably well over 20 of them for single turbo cars and a few running the stock twins, you will see hardly any of them are THAT consistent with each other. I've also seen some that were tuned by so called professionals that to me with my limited experience were horrible timing maps. I've seen maps that were flat across the rpm range which makes no sense at all. so with that said i'll give you some general guidlines that i picked up on and found useful for tuning my maps.

1. Timing increases with rpm and decreases as boost goes up.
2. No more then 15 degrees advance @ 15 psi (maybe a couple degrees less for street port) This is a guideline not a law
3. Don't continue to advance timing at peak torque keep it flat (some people even retard it). Peak torque is around N15/N16 (6000-6500 RPM)
4. After peak torque continue to advance timing
5. Decrease timing about 1 degree per 1 PSI increase of boost

SPLIT

6. Never run negative split in boost. EVER!
7. A lower split is similar to advancing timing, cylinder pressures increase as split is lowered.
8. Max split in upper boost (15psi) shouldn't go lower then about 10

9. timing has the lease potential to make more power. so don't go crazy adding 5 degrees advance to pick up 5 hp
10. A safe map on the dyno is not always a safe map on the street. Bad gas and load differences between the dyno and street can cause knock values not seen on the dyno.

That should be enough to give u a better idea anyways. hope that helps.

 

+1. Even though I now do this as a job, I still see the same thing. I think the thing about timing is it's a real black art as it were; real voodoo unless you've got a standardized powerplant setup w/ a mess of gauges, logging, and a dyno you're willing to break to experiment with stuff. But yeah, for the most part, alot of the base maps I see and from some that have tuned are junk and it makes me wonder if they know what they're doing or, if in the least, they have a workable theory they're atleast trying to practice.

Referring to RPM, up to a point then flattens off and either remains flat or slightly increases after torque peak. Depends mostly upon port work and amount of overlap; how the cylinder pressure decreases to what degree after torque peak. As the engine spins faster and faster, at some point it'll be going so fast that it'll have less "physical" time for air to get crammed in to the compression stroke. This is where the whole VE (volumetric efficiency) stuff comes into practical play.

Correct but the major mitigating factor here is quality of fuel used. It varies substantially from pump (which would be at or lesser than the degrees quoted) to leaded race fuel where the advance can be greater.

Flatten it long before then.

I tend toward keeping lead advance flat although I've seen some folks advance it greatly thereafter. Perhaps it's a way to try and keep horsepower flatter and not drooping down past torque peak as much. I think it's a foolish practice however. If you're revving 2krpm past torque peak when it's already fallen way off, then you're running too much RPM in my opinion and need to re-think the engine and turbo setup.

[QUOTTE]5. Decrease timing about 1 degree per 1 PSI increase of boost[/Quote]

Yep.

+1

Yep.

I do 10-11 on pump gas cars at that boost and I don't like going lower. Race gas or alcohol, however, is a different story. This one goes back to fuel quality.

Only if advance is at or near where it ought to be for the load/RPM being run. Everything else remaining constant, when going from a pump to high quality race fuel, advance yields alot of power; even trail-split tuning.

I agree with this. It's one of the reasons why I like street tuning whenever possible.

B

 

wow, this is a great post, hwnd and BDC, u guys are nice enouf to post some maps here for tuning reference, i've been trying to get some tuned maps and compare them to mine from datalogic user-group, but ppl seems so protective about their tunes, (almost like they want money for it), OMG!! we should get this sticky so other member notice this easily without goinf thru all the posts.

a few newbie questions (i can remove it if it's not apporiate to ask here)

1. wat is a "split"?
2. i have a set of 1300cc injectors which i am putting in later, do i needa change any parameter except for the injector size at setting5?
3. is there any autotune feature in datalogic if i have a innovative LC-1 wideband hooked up?

* my PFC was tuned by steve kan 2 years ago, but the map was gonna becus i accidentally loaded the sample 13B map onto wihout saving the tuned map, SIGN!

 

It's the degrees between when the leading plug fires and when the trailing plug fires. If there's a 10* split, and the leading plug fires at say 20*BTDC, then the trailing plug would fire at 10*BTDC.

Yep you'd need to change the map.

Nope.

* my PFC was tuned by steve kan 2 years ago, but the map was gonna becus i accidentally loaded the sample 13B map onto wihout saving the tuned map, SIGN![/QUOTE]

B

 

Actually for #2 it may be ok to change just the setting but it will need to be checked with a WB. So if you don't have a WB O2, and a way to adjust the map beside the commander then don't.

 

oh, i just got a set of 1300cc, and i have a Innovate LC-1 WB, i am planning on installing them soon, but i worry if i can run the car with my exsiting map b4 i can get a street tune or dyno tune, i used to have AEM and Emanage Ultimate on my other cars, when i changed my injectors, all i gotta do is changed injector size in the setting the ecu will do all the adjustment accordingly, so i was hoping PFC would do the same.

my setup is:
rebuilt and street ported 13B with 3mm apex seals
Knight Sport 420 twin turbo
Blitz i-color boost ctrler
apex dual intake, Trust IC, HKS DP, RE midpipe/exhaust exhaust (catless)
PFC + commander + DL
and i am installing Denso Supra fuel pump, 1300cc inj and LC-1 and HKS twin pwr

i just wanna run ~15-16psi of boost, any recommanded map??
i notice the sample 13B-NEW v5.08 map that comes with tha datalogic CD is running 1300cc secondary but too bad it's 850cc primary, or else i would just try it.

 

I'm pretty sure I've got a base map on my site that will loosely fit that.

B

 

It does basically the same when you change the inj. size but it's always safe to check it. I always add a little bit of fuel to the boost areas and then take it back out, it shouldn't take along to due a few pulls and check it.

 

In the spirit of sharing maps...

Motor blow was a map i ran a season of road race with, probably some 400-500 miles of road course driving. The motor ran very well, then gave up when I missed a shift and bounced the limiter a few times. I think i was advancing timing to hard near redline.

The update file hasnt been run yet, but a few changes that i will likely race with this year.

The scaling is my own, p10 is 1psi and p20 is 21 psi, in 2psi increments.

Mods are streetport, a-spec 3574 turbo, 3" exhaust, M2 large SMIC, 550/1680 injectors. AFR's were smooth and ~11:1 at 14psi
I was running 14psi and 91 octane gas.

 

Any dyno #s with that setup?

 

no, however the car weighs 2875 with me in it and at the main straight on my local track I would pull away from C5 Z06 and have C6 Z06 pull away. IMO thats in the ballpark for what a 3574 should do on pump gas. If i get on the dyno Ill post.

 

Cool thanks

 

Bump to say thanks to hwnd for some sample single turbo maps.

 

In what dimension would it be helpfull to know how much earlier the intake port opens and closes in case of a streetport (or other porting version for that matter) in order to determine a reasonable ignition map.


I mean, you can find information about the OEM TDC and BDC timing fairly easy.
If you do a port job yourself or your engine builder, you should have some reference to how much earlier the port opens and how much later it closes.

I assume this would also give you a guideline about an initial ignition map.

 

My PFC base maps are back up in a zip file on my site.

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/Technica...72009.zip.html

B

 

...i need a map for the following setup:

not ported yet
Garrett GT3584R T3 1.06 hotside ( A-Spec manifold dp and manifold)
4x 850cc injectors
full 3" catback and midpipe
all emission parts removed
Greddy Spec-M FMIC

i have found a so called "GT35 T4 rough" map, but it seems really unfinished (as the name speaks for itself, lol)

...just need a map where i can make my fine tuning on... can anyone please send me a mail or tell me where i can find one? Even on the Datalogit-Forum i can't find one... :-(

 

No problem, hope they've helped someone.

 

Do you guys have forall bolt s but with BNR stage 3 high out put turbo and factory ports.
Khris