Power FC PowerFC FD3S version into Series4 and 5 howto
#1
PowerFC FD3S version into Series4 and 5 howto
G'day to US,
I have performed a converation of FD3S Apexi power FC version into second gen RX-7. I have done this on series 4 and series 5 and made a write up about what you need and how you can perform a conversation.
You will find many erorrs in my write up as I'm not nativ english speaker. Dale Clark will include this write up in his FAQ about PowerFC.
Everybody who want to read, you can downlod my write up from my website:
http://www.rotary-imports.de/space/PFC_intall_FC.pdf
REgards
Iwan
I have performed a converation of FD3S Apexi power FC version into second gen RX-7. I have done this on series 4 and series 5 and made a write up about what you need and how you can perform a conversation.
You will find many erorrs in my write up as I'm not nativ english speaker. Dale Clark will include this write up in his FAQ about PowerFC.
Everybody who want to read, you can downlod my write up from my website:
http://www.rotary-imports.de/space/PFC_intall_FC.pdf
REgards
Iwan
#4
Hey Iwan,
I downloaded your howto and I'm thinking about a conversion for my Series4. I'm still a little intimidated about the whole task but thanks so much for doing the write-up! I wish I could have looked you up when I was on vacation in Munich just last month- I missed the good food and sunny weather as soon as I got back home!
I downloaded your howto and I'm thinking about a conversion for my Series4. I'm still a little intimidated about the whole task but thanks so much for doing the write-up! I wish I could have looked you up when I was on vacation in Munich just last month- I missed the good food and sunny weather as soon as I got back home!
#5
I just finished swapping the FD power fc into my 82rx7 with a S-5 T2. Its freaking awesome. I referenced the Iwan how to and the Banzai how to. The only parts I had to "upgrade" were the map sensor, ait sensor, and I had to use the FD ignitors. Other than that it was all S-5 electronics and harness. I just wired it up and it fired right up; drove it gingerly 150 miles down to Ground Zero in Portland last Saturday. Ralph tuned it in a 7psi, because we have crappy"winter" gas here in the N.W. that causes too much knocking with more boost and timing.
Anyways here is the dyno sheet, stock Jspec block, 3inch exhaust, RC 750 and 1000, small Fmic, BNRstage 1 fan, thats about it.
Anyways here is the dyno sheet, stock Jspec block, 3inch exhaust, RC 750 and 1000, small Fmic, BNRstage 1 fan, thats about it.
#6
#7
Glad to see the first setups are running
I have performed some changes to my writeup and included the FD igniter Pin-Out to the new version. You can downlod the new version from the same link above.
@ BlueTII: I have chenged the link to your side and included your pin-out diagram for Series5 to my write up.
REgards
Iwan
I have performed some changes to my writeup and included the FD igniter Pin-Out to the new version. You can downlod the new version from the same link above.
@ BlueTII: I have chenged the link to your side and included your pin-out diagram for Series5 to my write up.
REgards
Iwan
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#9
You are also missing several of the updates that we have made, such as pin 3D can be used to trigger a relay for an electric fan at a preset temp via the Power FC. If you are going to take our information and republish it you should probably keep on top of the changes that we have made.
#10
Originally Posted by BlueTII
You are also missing several of the updates that we have made, such as pin 3D can be used to trigger a relay for an electric fan at a preset temp via the Power FC. If you are going to take our information and republish it you should probably keep on top of the changes that we have made.
REgards
Iwan
#12
There are some updates that you can make to this. The series 4 water temp sensor works fine with the FD power FC. You don't need the FD unit. I am running a brand new OEM series 4 sensor with series 4 connector and the PFC display agrees with my separate aftermarket gauge.
For the injectors, you do not necessarily need to wire in resistors. If you have a factory resistor pack you can just keep it and run low impedence injectors directly. That's what I do. If you have all high impedence injectors (usually just stock 88-91 injectors or those POS venom injectors), you also do not need to wire in resistors. It's really no different than on the stock FC ECU. The ECU injector driver can only run so much current reliably, and that can be achieved through either high impedence injectors, or low impedence injectors with the factory resistor pack, wiring in resistors, or even a low impedence injector driver (like the one made by FJO).
I am also using the series 4 TPS. I basically have that signal going to both pin 3F and 3G , so VTA1 and VTA2 on the commander sensor display read the same. The series 5 TPS is essentially the same as the FD, at least as far as the PFC is concerned. VTA1 and VTA2 should have different values on the s5 cars and should be adjusted according to spec.
As for the basemap, well that just depends on your setup. I ran the FD fuel portion of the map and it started and idled just fine on my car at least. The timing map will work ok (ok, not "well") for driving around out of boost. Fuel and timing under boost needs to be tuned for the individual car of course. That goes with just about ANY base map. Injectors will have to be configured for the individual car as well, but I think for a lot of cars you could start and at least drive the car using the Apex'i basemap as long as you have your injectors and MAP sensor set up properly. Either the FD (PIM volt option 1) or Apex'i MAP (PIM volt option 2) sensors will at least work (not necessarily work well though) on the basemap without using the datalogit to adjust scale and offset.
For the fuel pump, banzai racing figured out a way to trigger a ground when the car was running and cranking (not entirely sure which pin they used) and then used that as a ground to trigger the circuit opening relay in place of the stock airflow meter. Thus the fuel pump does not need to be rewired completely if you don't want to do so.
For the injectors, you do not necessarily need to wire in resistors. If you have a factory resistor pack you can just keep it and run low impedence injectors directly. That's what I do. If you have all high impedence injectors (usually just stock 88-91 injectors or those POS venom injectors), you also do not need to wire in resistors. It's really no different than on the stock FC ECU. The ECU injector driver can only run so much current reliably, and that can be achieved through either high impedence injectors, or low impedence injectors with the factory resistor pack, wiring in resistors, or even a low impedence injector driver (like the one made by FJO).
I am also using the series 4 TPS. I basically have that signal going to both pin 3F and 3G , so VTA1 and VTA2 on the commander sensor display read the same. The series 5 TPS is essentially the same as the FD, at least as far as the PFC is concerned. VTA1 and VTA2 should have different values on the s5 cars and should be adjusted according to spec.
As for the basemap, well that just depends on your setup. I ran the FD fuel portion of the map and it started and idled just fine on my car at least. The timing map will work ok (ok, not "well") for driving around out of boost. Fuel and timing under boost needs to be tuned for the individual car of course. That goes with just about ANY base map. Injectors will have to be configured for the individual car as well, but I think for a lot of cars you could start and at least drive the car using the Apex'i basemap as long as you have your injectors and MAP sensor set up properly. Either the FD (PIM volt option 1) or Apex'i MAP (PIM volt option 2) sensors will at least work (not necessarily work well though) on the basemap without using the datalogit to adjust scale and offset.
For the fuel pump, banzai racing figured out a way to trigger a ground when the car was running and cranking (not entirely sure which pin they used) and then used that as a ground to trigger the circuit opening relay in place of the stock airflow meter. Thus the fuel pump does not need to be rewired completely if you don't want to do so.
Last edited by arghx; 07-30-08 at 12:26 PM.
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