Power FC Power FC Idle Problems
05-26-02, 05:20 PM
#1
Rich Hoe
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Power FC Idle Problems
Does anyone know why or know how to fix the following.
My 93 FD, idles funny ever since installing my power FC. It bounces between 1300rpm - 800rpm when i am stopped at a light and the car is warm. It bounces like this for about 20-30 sec and then it sits at 1300rpm and comes down to a smooth 900 rpm. I don't think it is my TPS since the car ran fine with my stock ecu and my old Re-Amemiya ECU.
My 93 FD, idles funny ever since installing my power FC. It bounces between 1300rpm - 800rpm when i am stopped at a light and the car is warm. It bounces like this for about 20-30 sec and then it sits at 1300rpm and comes down to a smooth 900 rpm. I don't think it is my TPS since the car ran fine with my stock ecu and my old Re-Amemiya ECU.
05-26-02, 05:35 PM
#2
WTB** Very Low Miles 94-95
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it is a common problem. no solutions have helped...supposedly it will work out the kinks itself...it takes time for the idle searching to quit....honestly though I havent noticed it lessening over time.
j
j
05-26-02, 07:11 PM
#3
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Ya mine even does it now, but only on like the first 20 minutes of driving.. After that its all good. My mech said if I get a full tune it will be gone, its just from the weather changing usually... GOOD LUCK
Jason
Jason
05-28-02, 10:37 PM
#7
thats not paint....
Originally posted by Smilez
Mine does it too, even after 2 weeks of daily driving.
Mine does it too, even after 2 weeks of daily driving.
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06-02-02, 12:49 AM
#9
Rich Hoe
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Yeah i have adjusted to and no change. I have had the PFC for about 2 months now and it hasn't changed. Does anyone know of a good tuner for the PFC in Vancouver or Seattle?
06-11-02, 06:54 PM
#12
Hate to dig up an old thread here, but I have the exact same problem. It seems water/engine temp related as well, at startup before the hot wax rod is melted (ie below 80C) it idles at about 1500. Between 80-90C it does the idle bouncing, all the time and it is very annoying.. and since I installed a fmic I also ran a manual fan switch at the same time to keep the water temps down. Well it works great, the water temp never gets past 85C now with it on.. but that leaves me stuck right in the middle of my idle bouncing. Now if I leave the fans off and the temps climb above 90C say on a really warm day stop and go the idle bouncing magically disappears. I thought this whole problem was due to a LIM leak and was planning on digging in deep in a week or two here.. now am I just going to be wasting my time? My motor only has 20k on a mazda reman so maybe the gasket is fine..
Matt
93 SSM
Matt
93 SSM
06-12-02, 12:13 PM
#13
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
06-13-02, 12:34 PM
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Try Replacing the Oxygen Sensor
I had the idle problem. I replaced my Oxygen sensor with a new one and I no longer have the idle problem.
A direct plug-in Oxygen sensor for the FD is only $35 from :
http://www.oxygensensors.com/
A direct plug-in Oxygen sensor for the FD is only $35 from :
http://www.oxygensensors.com/
06-17-02, 04:37 PM
#16
Originally posted by adax
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Matt
93 SSM with a solid 800rpm idle
06-17-02, 04:40 PM
#17
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I tried moving my bleed screw but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. If you don't have a white mark, is there any other way to tell your setting the idle stop screw to the right place?
BTW, thats the small screw on the line on the throttle body right?
BTW, thats the small screw on the line on the throttle body right?
06-17-02, 07:11 PM
#18
I did mine through trial and error really, the throttle stop screw is the upper most one on the throttle body towards the front of the car. I just adjusted the air bleed screw in more, and slapped on the intake elbow. Started up the car and let it warm up to temperature (10 minutes or so).. at that point I thought the idle was too low, almost stumbled off when I switched on the fans.. so I adjusted the screw a bit to raise it again. There was white paint on mine but it was impossible to really tell where it was supposed to be, it covered a bunch of the threads. I plan to test out my TPS and adjust as necessary soon.
Matt
Matt
06-19-02, 12:22 PM
#20
My car used to run fine and idle fine with the PFC but now my car has been down for almost 5 weeks and I just got it running again and now my idle won't steady itself. It will fluctuate between 1000-1700 for a minute or so and then steady at 1050 but as soon as I touch the accelerator it will start all over again. It does it at stoplights and everywhere. Annoying as hell. I am going to try this trick and see if it helps. Thanks
07-02-02, 04:43 PM
#21
Perpetual Rebuilder
Originally posted by adax
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Try this, I've seen it work on 3 cars which had bouncing idle of week's duration.
Set the throttle plate stop screw to the factory setting (there should be some white paint on it indicating where this is). Open the air bleed screw under the elbow 1/2 turn from closed. Start the car from cold and let it warm up/idle for 20 minutes (don't touch anything). After some bounding around it should stabilize. Turn on the A/C and lights and let it idle for another 20 minutes. After this it should work. If not, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere beyond the throttle body.
Alan
Shawn
07-02-02, 04:50 PM
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Adjusting the idle screw doesn't seem to do anything for me. So I want to adjust the throttle body screw, right? If I put a hex wrench in the end of the screw, do I want to move it up in order to close the throttle body a bit @ idle?
What about that nut? I'm not sure if its frozen or if I'm an idiot and just can't figure out how to make it work...
Thanks,
Jeff
What about that nut? I'm not sure if its frozen or if I'm an idiot and just can't figure out how to make it work...
Thanks,
Jeff
07-02-02, 09:23 PM
#23
Perpetual Rebuilder
Jeff,
That nut needs to be loosened using an 8mm socket (I think that was the size) and then you can adjust the screw. I had to "loosen" mine which made the screw shorter on the bottom side which allowed the throttle to go lower. I am not looking at it now but I would say there is about 8 threads left below the holder (hard to describe this but there is some of the screw below but not much) where the white paint was. Then I tightened the air bleed screw completely and actually turned back about 2 revolutions. I still dont have it exactly right because my idle seems a little low, on decel it almost stalls, and there is a slight hesitation when I press the gas, but certainly alot better than the hunt was.
Shawn
That nut needs to be loosened using an 8mm socket (I think that was the size) and then you can adjust the screw. I had to "loosen" mine which made the screw shorter on the bottom side which allowed the throttle to go lower. I am not looking at it now but I would say there is about 8 threads left below the holder (hard to describe this but there is some of the screw below but not much) where the white paint was. Then I tightened the air bleed screw completely and actually turned back about 2 revolutions. I still dont have it exactly right because my idle seems a little low, on decel it almost stalls, and there is a slight hesitation when I press the gas, but certainly alot better than the hunt was.
Shawn
07-03-02, 02:58 PM
#24
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here is another solution
drive the car ....let it idle like mad every time you pull up to a stoplight...look in mirror...check for embarrassment color in your cheeks as some ricer girl in a honda laughs at you and your eight year old car.
take off..kick her ***...then pull up to another light and do it again.
after a few weeks your problem will be cleared up. most people will think your car is a piece of ****..but what do you care!!
j
ps doing the idle screw test above did nothing for me. I had no intake leaks either.
drive the car ....let it idle like mad every time you pull up to a stoplight...look in mirror...check for embarrassment color in your cheeks as some ricer girl in a honda laughs at you and your eight year old car.
take off..kick her ***...then pull up to another light and do it again.
after a few weeks your problem will be cleared up. most people will think your car is a piece of ****..but what do you care!!
j
ps doing the idle screw test above did nothing for me. I had no intake leaks either.
