Power FC Power FC driveability/etc question?
#1
Visual Kei
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Power FC driveability/etc question?
Hey guys!
I now have an FD w/ roughly 1,600 on a rebuild and 91k on the chassis. It is completely stock except for:
-downpipe
-Koyo radiator
-air pump delete
I have some questions as the FIRST thing I want to do to this car is a Power FC and make the right choice from the beginning rather than mod it and risk things. I have read up on, cruised countless threads, and asked around some but would like to get this posted up as well.
I would be buying one new w/ the OLED commander.
1. I've read that they have a "base map" on them as well as a "modified base map". Steps required for installing and having it "learn" the car and then she's good to go. My first question is: Is the "base" map that of the stock FD computer and would allow me to drive it and boost it and cruise around just as I would like it didn't have a Power FC in it, just be to monitor everything?
In short... will I be able to drive my car and boost it like I can now? Like I said the car is stock w/ a downpipe and radiator as the only mods. It sticks right to the 10-8-10psi boost pattern.
2. I have read Dale Clarks FAQ's about the PFC and installing it. I am guessing that the instructions would still be the same for all PFC's as to what/which wires to not use in the factory plugs on the engine harness?
That's really all I wanted to ask. I just want to make sure I am clear that the "base" map is something I can drive on like it were the stock ECU or just wait and install it after my future plans then install the PFC and get it tuned.
Regardless... I am wanting one to get it in and monitor everything as the car is now. After I rack up my future planned mods then I will install and baby the car to get tuned.
Any comments/advice/clarification would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for reading if you have. I love my FD and it's a great new car after selling my beloved TII. I can't wait to put some little things with this car and have her open up a bit more.
-Allen G.
I now have an FD w/ roughly 1,600 on a rebuild and 91k on the chassis. It is completely stock except for:
-downpipe
-Koyo radiator
-air pump delete
I have some questions as the FIRST thing I want to do to this car is a Power FC and make the right choice from the beginning rather than mod it and risk things. I have read up on, cruised countless threads, and asked around some but would like to get this posted up as well.
I would be buying one new w/ the OLED commander.
1. I've read that they have a "base map" on them as well as a "modified base map". Steps required for installing and having it "learn" the car and then she's good to go. My first question is: Is the "base" map that of the stock FD computer and would allow me to drive it and boost it and cruise around just as I would like it didn't have a Power FC in it, just be to monitor everything?
In short... will I be able to drive my car and boost it like I can now? Like I said the car is stock w/ a downpipe and radiator as the only mods. It sticks right to the 10-8-10psi boost pattern.
2. I have read Dale Clarks FAQ's about the PFC and installing it. I am guessing that the instructions would still be the same for all PFC's as to what/which wires to not use in the factory plugs on the engine harness?
That's really all I wanted to ask. I just want to make sure I am clear that the "base" map is something I can drive on like it were the stock ECU or just wait and install it after my future plans then install the PFC and get it tuned.
Regardless... I am wanting one to get it in and monitor everything as the car is now. After I rack up my future planned mods then I will install and baby the car to get tuned.
Any comments/advice/clarification would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for reading if you have. I love my FD and it's a great new car after selling my beloved TII. I can't wait to put some little things with this car and have her open up a bit more.
-Allen G.
#3
Rock*
iTrader: (2)
Similar question,
Currently installed on car are: Dp, RB Dual CB, Boost Gauge
I bought a PFC & commander of a forum member (newer FDS4 version) and have yet to install it (I have the adapter harness for Auto too). I have an autocross event this weekend and will be beating on the car. I would really like to install the ECU (I would like to monitor temps etc.), but not if there is any chance of damaging the car by running an untuned ECU (I will need to reset it to basemap).
My A/C is currently inoperable (and slated to be removed in the future anyway) so I don't care if that works. But, I will need to run the heater on full bore to get as much heat out of the engine as possible between runs. I have not heard of the PFC affecting this so I should still be good on that.
Idle adjustment etc will take some work but I read Arghx's post on that and as long as my Auto trans differences aren't too big, I should be able to get that working.
My main question is if the ECU will be rich enough to handle the event. With the temps around these parts being in the upper ninetys I am expecting a lot of heat-soak. Also, I unfortunately haven't procured a fast reacting IAT yet nor a wide-band so I won't really know what is going on.
Any help is much appreciated.
Currently installed on car are: Dp, RB Dual CB, Boost Gauge
I bought a PFC & commander of a forum member (newer FDS4 version) and have yet to install it (I have the adapter harness for Auto too). I have an autocross event this weekend and will be beating on the car. I would really like to install the ECU (I would like to monitor temps etc.), but not if there is any chance of damaging the car by running an untuned ECU (I will need to reset it to basemap).
My A/C is currently inoperable (and slated to be removed in the future anyway) so I don't care if that works. But, I will need to run the heater on full bore to get as much heat out of the engine as possible between runs. I have not heard of the PFC affecting this so I should still be good on that.
Idle adjustment etc will take some work but I read Arghx's post on that and as long as my Auto trans differences aren't too big, I should be able to get that working.
My main question is if the ECU will be rich enough to handle the event. With the temps around these parts being in the upper ninetys I am expecting a lot of heat-soak. Also, I unfortunately haven't procured a fast reacting IAT yet nor a wide-band so I won't really know what is going on.
Any help is much appreciated.
#5
Rock*
iTrader: (2)
I appreciate your honesty, I understand how people don't want to go on record telling someone they'll be fine only for something to go wrong. Seems like this is likely the reason an answer to this question is so hard to find.
Oh, and my only fuel system problem (that I know of) is that it likes to cut out when I've got less then 5/8 a tank if I've been throwing the car around a lot. From what I read, this has to do with the baffling/cover in the tank of the '93. Makes my heart skip a beat when it happens. I try to keep the fuel level high because of it, but what I really need to do is fab up a surge tank or something...
I take it if I have another unknown fuel system problem this would affect me regardless of whether I had the stock ECU installed or the PFC. Or would the PFC make it worse for some reason?
Oh, and my only fuel system problem (that I know of) is that it likes to cut out when I've got less then 5/8 a tank if I've been throwing the car around a lot. From what I read, this has to do with the baffling/cover in the tank of the '93. Makes my heart skip a beat when it happens. I try to keep the fuel level high because of it, but what I really need to do is fab up a surge tank or something...
I take it if I have another unknown fuel system problem this would affect me regardless of whether I had the stock ECU installed or the PFC. Or would the PFC make it worse for some reason?
#6
It shouldn't make anything worse. A lot of people have installed powerfcs and run on the basemap with near stock cars. If u have a perfect boost pattern, it should be fine. Hyperion (if I'm remembering the name right) sells a fuel tank surge cover which fixes the cutout problem. I have tested it and it only starved once the gauge hit the empty line. Also, the fast ait sensor won't matter at the track since your hot all the time anyway and there aren't any sudden changes in temperature.
thewird
thewird
#7
Rock*
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for the reply, my boost is pretty solid 10-8-10. Athough, it will sometimes go above 10 when the boost is building up. It will build boost, briefly go up to 11 then back down to 10. I almost saw 12 once when the air out was really cold, but I got out of it instead of waiting to see if it kept going up or went down to 10. So it overshoots a bit, would I see the same thing with the PFC? or does it do a better job of controlling the boost?
Thanks for the reminder on the cover. I remember seeing a thread about a group buy on that or something. I may try to track him down or just fab one myself when I have the time.
I agree, I think that a fast iat sensor would be of negligible help on a track day. But wouldn't it help in an Autocross? In AutoX we often do a run, then sit in queue for about 6-10 min or so, then run again, and so on. I usually open the hood and let the fans run to help mitigate heat-soak, but you can only do so much. I would think that the iat might help in this respect.
Thanks for the reminder on the cover. I remember seeing a thread about a group buy on that or something. I may try to track him down or just fab one myself when I have the time.
I agree, I think that a fast iat sensor would be of negligible help on a track day. But wouldn't it help in an Autocross? In AutoX we often do a run, then sit in queue for about 6-10 min or so, then run again, and so on. I usually open the hood and let the fans run to help mitigate heat-soak, but you can only do so much. I would think that the iat might help in this respect.
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