SPOautos

Hey guys I'm wanting to compare the air temp of the intake air between different cars with different mods.

Please post your avg (or a range) intake temps on the highway and also what the approx ambient temp was. In addition to the 2 temps I need to what intake and IC you have.....I would like some good #'s of stock equipment as well. The more descriptive you can be the better.....like the mph, if your running under boost alot or just coasting, stuff like that if you can remember.

This is very important to me, I'm building my own custom IC and want to compare the #'s with other IC systems.

BTW - Does anyone know exactly where this temp sensor is located in the engine bay??? Before anyone says something I realize the temp on the PFC may not be super accurate but since were all using the same sensor and a PFC the results should be comparable.

Thanks for all your help,
STEPHEN

fluxen

I'm working some similar stuff, so I'll give you some numbers:

Normal Freeway Cruising w/o undercover w fan mod - going home 40
Normal Freeway Cruising w/o undercover w fan mod - going to work 34

Hard driving at night 50

This is with a open intake with some air hoses coming from in front of the radiator, and a messed up "temporary" ic cowling around a Greddy SMIC. I'll be changing to an enclosed air box with the same hoses soon, and I'll let you know how the numbers change. After that, I'll be doing good cowling to the IC, and we'll see how the numbers change again...

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately the air temp sensor has the responce of a snail and the resolution of a blind cyclops. This is evident if you really watch it, especially after the engine heat soaks.

SPOautos

When you say "w fan mod" are you refering to the cooling fan mod or do you have a fan installed on your IC? Do you have any idea what the ambient temps were during those runs?

That 34 is pretty good, had you been driving for a while so that it had time to be fully warm or was the car kinda cold?

Thanks,
STEPHEN

fluxen

the 34 was driving to work in the morning, it was a peak hold value and I drive about 27 miles, so I'm sure it was warm. I do about 90 on the freeway much of the way, but part of it is in slow, stop and go traffic. It was morning temps, which right now are about 65F or 70F I'd guess. The fan mod I'm talking about it just the rad fan running full time. It's probably canceled out by the fact I don't have an undertray at the moment.

LT1-7

This is a good idea what you're doing SPO. As for mine with the stock IC I woiuld get temps of about 70 just driving in town. Now I get about 40 around town and thats with the FMIC pipes to the turbos hot as hell. If I ran aluminum pipes, I would assume my temps would go down even more. I can actually feel each endtank and the one that goes in is hot to the touch and the outlet is really cold especially at night. If you want to get a FMIC I have one for sale. Check the for sale page.

airborne

hey i've got the pettit tkt cold air intake and stock IC.

average air temp ~60c when ambient is ~80F.

on a side note i noticed little/no difference in air temp with the intake but if you just stick your hand on either side of the heat shield you can feel its much cooler on the intake side. guess i need to ditch the stock IC soon...

carpediem73

oooppppss should have read your post first. just posted a line on the forum. My intake temps are 30deg F above ambient.

Mods are 3" dp custom air intake with 2-2" Al pipes.

SPOautos

Hey 30 degree above ambient is pretty good for the stock IC? Is that cruising or under boost? That must be cruising, when SCC tested the stock unit they reported temps under very hard driving conditions as high as almost 200F!!!!!!!!!! Thats Crazy!!!!!Mine have never seen that high but I've seen high 70'sC which is around 170F....thats on a 95F day

I've noticed with the stock IC that it seems to do ok while cruising, but under boost when those turbos start spinning and heating up the air is when you'll notice the performance of the stock IC crash and burn. The IC is just sooo small the air doesnt stay in there long enough to cool off.

This is GREAT info guys lets keep it coming!!!!! There are alot of us in here with the Power FC so I bet we have almost every comb of intake/IC combination avail!!!!!

Later,
STEPHEN

atihun

They also drove the F out of it on a track. That will definitely make the difference.

Mine I see it in the 30's in the mornings, and afternoons up to 50's, but I run the fans all the time.

Cant wait to get the vented hood. I think that will make quite a bit of difference.

TYT 7

The only mods I have are downpipe & M2 airbox. Driving around for 40 minutes city/highway combo with outside air temps in the high 90's low 100's I had a peak hold value of 77. That's why I'm getting rid of the stock intercooler

SPOautos

What kind of outside temps is that in?

Later,

mpetersrx7

Stephen,
I tried to get this same info when I first got my PFC and got no response.

I think the best is to look at various conditions:
like peak hold after 3rd gear WOT
cruising at 70 in 5th

I will try to get numbers this week for you.

-Mark

atihun

This is in Southern California, so in the mornings it is usually 65 to 70 and in the afternoon it can be 80 to 95. When it goes to the high end I see intake temps at 60 to 65.

My coolant temps in the morning are around 83 and in the afternoon it is usually at 86-89, and when really hot it can go to about 96-100.

I will keep a closer look as it has been getting warmer around here.

spyfish007

I don't believe anybody hit on this question so,

The stock air sensor is located in the upper intake manifold in middle runner. It is the runner for the rear primary rotor. It has a blue connector on it. Chuck is correct about saying that it moves/responds very slow to temp changes. In the shop manual it also states this same thing. I think it moves WAY slower than the H2O sensor. I only see it spike to like high 60's when I am WOT and lots of boost. (stock IC) Otherwise it sits at high 40s or low 50s. Do a graph on your PowerFC and monitor boost, rpm, h2o, and intake and watch the change. It is worth a laugh.

KZ1

at 80F, I get about 43c cruising with mild boost e.g. big boulevard. highway maybe 40C just boking around town boosting etc, I get high 40s - low 50s. If I am in traffic they can go through the roof!!!

I am hapopy with the PFS intercooler, the other day I drove downton for 30 minis, park the car for 10mins, and got in it again. air intake temps were like 85C. 5 mins of driving I was back to high 60s, 15 mnins I was at mid 50s.

with the stock ic I was seeing about 10c higher.

SPOautos

bump

This is great info, lets keep it going

Thanks,

spyfish007

I have been getting high 60s all the time now . . .did my test yesterday just for kicks. That sensor heats up real quick, but VERY slow to go down.

SPOautos

I've notced that as well and it makes me think that the problem isnt a bad, slow, or unresponsive sensor because it will heat up real fast......I think the prob is that its very hard and time consuming to cool of a super hot heat soaked IC!!!! It takes time longer to cool off metal as opposed to heating it up. Metal heats up real fast but then retains heat so its sloooww cooling.....kinda like a motor that heats up in 5 minutes but takes 5 hrs to cool all the way back down. The IC heat soak isnt quite that bad but it follows the same principle.

Thats why I'm desgning my IC to keep from heat soaking in the first place, this way I dont have to worry about if its heat soaked or not before a race.

Fan and water mister along with the IC sitting back away from the motor should help battle this problem.

You guys keep it coming, I'd like some info on the M2, CWC and some FMIC's.....

Thanks,

LT1-7

hey SPOautos, most of the heat that the pipes are getting is coming from the turbos not the engine itself. I tried to insulate my pipes with the exhaust wrap stuff but then realized that the heat coming from the turbos will just make the pipes heat up longer by adding the wrap. I think the best thing to do is to make the pipes out of aluminum. I got air temp of 37C tonight and it felt great, wish I could keep it at 37C all the time

SPOautos

There are alot of different things that affect the temps. I've noticed my temps go up when I get into the boost. And your right that is from the turbos heating up the air. But the temps drop pretty quick after the boost is off and the intake air isnt being heated as much by the turbos. Your inlet pipe is always going to be much hotter than the outlet pipe, its uncooled air. Anyway, I think the temp of the IC is more important than the inlet pipe. The air stays in the IC much longer than the short pipe. If the IC is doing its job it should cool that intake air and the outlet pipe will be nice and cool

The biggest problem I had was when the IC gets hot, not just the intake air. I would sit in traffic at a red light or something like that and in moments the temps rise 10C. The IC is just sitting there soaking in all that super hot engine bay heat with no source of fresh cool air to counter the heat. At that point the metel of the IC gets super super hot (untouchable hot) and is super heating the air as it goes thru, instead of cooling it like it should. Once the IC gets heat soaked like this it takes a long time to get the temps back down......you couldnt do it in a 1/4 mile I guarentee. With the stock IC I've noticed it taking as long as 10 miles at 90mph on the interstate to get the IC to cool off to a decent level (decent for the stock IC anyway). If your IC is super hot its not going to make cold air.

I think installing a fan to draw in air while around town would be a huge help, it will keep the fresh air moving thru the core even when you'r not moving.

Anyway, we'll know after today, I'm fixing to be finished with the air duct and installation of a fan today. I'll be testing it tonight at the local drag races. We can think of reasons that make sense all day long but nothing will be as good as trying it out

Wish me luck at the races!!!

Stay cool guys, (hehe little IC humor there)

LT1-7

remember to post your times

ech

A dedicated duct from the back end of the IC to one of the new vented hoods would probably keep the heat soak down a little. As it got hot it would create a chimney effect, to pull more cool air through the IC.