JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Ok, after going through all these problems w/ power to the ecu. I finally got the car running on the stock ecu, it ran like **** and would smoke like a bastarded due to running very large primary injectors and open DP. so I removed all the stock stuff and hooked up everything for the pfc. loaded my base map and went to start. the car started right up w/o alot of smoke like before and just revved up to 3k rpm and shut off. tried again same thing. so I figured I would record the logs with the datalogit and post my base map and my log of it happening. maybe one of you can offer me your expertise thanx
james
this is my log and map

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Why do you need 1000/1680 injectors? Do you plan to make over 500whp or are running E85? 850 primaries are difficult to idle tune and your 1000s will be a bitch!

Except for the 55% primary ratio, the rest of the injectors setup is crap!
All of your lags are way too small.
You will need negative lag to get your idle to not drown out.

IGL looks like you are running bridge ports. Timing split is crap and dangerous.

Idle speeds indicate that you are running the ISC which most likely will not work plus they are too low,

You have not done your homework, or the tuner hasn't.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

the reason for the large injectors is the upgraded turbo and in the next year I am planning for a larger single and I dont want to upgrade or change my fuel system later down the road. The map was given to me by banzai racing as a fc base map for my tII to trim down the large injectors and use it in a second gen. Can you plz give me any insight? is this problem caused by the map? Thank you.
James

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

It is not an issue with the map and there is nothing wrong with the timing. If you had contacted tech I would have given you a few pointers. Here are a few things to try

1. Disconnect the BAC if you have one.

If you do not or that makes no change then

2. adjust the TPS and throttle plates. The TPS is now adjusted with aid from the commander in swnsor switch check screen. The throttle plates are adjusted with the tiny screw on the firewall side of the TB that has the 8mm locknut.

3. If you have removed the thermowax you may need to adjust the water temp correction values.

Getting the 1000cc primaries to idle cleanly will be a little tricky but it can be done, 850cc are easy. Don't even mess with negative lag yet, it is not something that "has" to be done.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok car is equiped w/ fd uim the bac is not connected as for the tps is it shown as voltage or a percentage where should it be set too also how do I go about adjusting the throttle plates should I bring the screw all the way out then a couple turns in to start also the thremowax is removed how do I adjust the water temp correction values? Thanx banzai
James

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok found out how to read and set the tps but what volts should i set it to?
also found how to adjust the water temp correction values, but what should the be set at? i dont wana **** any of this up. i just wana get this thing running so i an get it to the exhaust shop and then tuner thanx
james

arghx

iTrader: (3)

is your alternator (and battery grounds) ok? battery volt is lower with the car running than with it off, if I am reading this log correctly. It wouldn't open in my FC Edit for whatever reason but I put it into excel. Battery voltage is like 12.5 with the engine at almost 3000 rpm??? Also, when the car is revved up vacuum is reading -760 and PIM is zero, and it is reading vacuum at 0 rpm. that can't be right. What MAP sensor do you have and where is it hooked up? it says scale 6300 offset 0.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well during that log I had a car running w/ jumper cables connected to my battery. I'm using a gm 3 bar map sensor electrically hooked up via adaptor from banzai and is hooked throughthe boost sensor wiring vacume is hooked up to the back of the uim. I mean I did rewire the alternator only two wires tho would that happen if I put them backwards? Idk wouldn't it still run off the other cars Alt.? Any thing else?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I got my GM sensor w/ adapter from Banzai Racing and put it in as scale 6630 offset 0.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

is that what I should do I wasnt told anything about changing the settings when I got it

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Have you look at timing split? IT IS BAD and if you do not think so, you do not know what you are doing !

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

so crew? what should i do? does any one else know how to read the map and give an opinon? i dont know where to start. ****, i dont even know if i should **** w/ the car should i just have it looked at by a tuner, mechanicaly i know what im doing but when it comes to stuff like this i have no clue what to think or do. it was supossed to plug in and and allow me to start the car and get it where it has to go now idk if i fucked something up or if they did anything else?
thanks
james

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

banzai my tps is set at 3.47v closed throttle and 4.98v WOT is that correct? this is just narrow range i dont have full range hooked up yet

ArtsRx7

iTrader: (5)

I have the banzai kit also and would like to see other stock setup maps.

jave 93rx7

The search function on this fourm works wonders, and your voltage is way too high,
Comander use:
go to etc menu, than to sensor check. Check the voltage for TPS1 und TPS2. Adjust the voltage to the specs (0.1-0.7 TPS1 and 0.75-1.25 TPS2)
I also agree with the split timming not looking too **** hot.

jave 93rx7

My bad I didn't see it was a narrow range tps but you still want to keep it under 1.0 volt when the throttle is closed

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

banzai plaese tell me what I should do

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The car will never run right if you don't have your sensors in spec and configured properly. If you take it to your tuner, he will probably just charge you money to tell you stuff that we're saying here. You also need to verify that your water thermosensor is reading properly and if you have an FD, your fuel temp sensor.

Do you have a series 4 FC ? Or is this an FD? https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/my-s4-turbo-ii-tuning-tips-banzai-adapter-728246/ is a writeup I made about a series 4 car, it including explicit detail about TPS setup.

Go into the datalogit, I think it's settings 2 or 3, and make sure PIM volt option 3 is selected. Set option 3 to scale 6630 offset 0 for now. Then save the file and write to the PFC. With the TPS and MAP sensor set properly, you can attempt to start it again, and then you will need to play with the throttle stop screw (with the 8mm nut) and possibly adjust the cold start settings.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

arghx thank you so much thats what I needed it is an fc w/ fd uim so it shouldn't be to different I'm gonna go though your thread if I have any questions I'll post them up again tyvm
James

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

agrhx do you mean PIM Scale, offset #3 option 2 b/c thats the one that said 6300 0 offset

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

I am with Chuck on the Primary's, I have a Half-BP running 850 Primary's/1600 Sec and have PLENTY of fuel.

the 1000 are just CRAZY big. It is hard to make the 850's run good, but 1000 will be a BITCH.

I understand that Banzai guys may work on the PowerFC and do tuning, But cewrx7r1 (Chuck) has a PhD in PowerFC. He has tested everything that the PowerFC can do.

Chuck has tuned the Super Stock to Wildly Modded (Mine) and when he says something is BAD it is just that BAD

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

actually i didnt know cewrx7r1 was chuck. my friend kevin (teknics) mentioned chuck to me in very high reguard about tuning w/ this computer. chuck is there anyway you can help me out regurding the situation im in. im gonna try to set the tps and do arghx has recommended about the PIM to see if i can just get it started but i dont wana drive it on this map if you say that its unsafe. kevin mentioned a book or manual chuck made for tuning the pfc or something.
thanx
james

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok, well I tried to set the TPS, but couldnt get it to drop below 2.4 volts and the 8mm screw and lock nut werent even close to touching the throttle bar after spending an hour trying to figure out what the problem was and adjusting all the screws and ****. I came to the conclusion that some thing in the tb has to be bent, but even so the engine ran fine when it was in the other car. so I stopped ******* around w/ the tps because it wouldnt get any lower. then I grabbed the computer and changed the scale to what arghx suggested and went to start the first time it idles at 1100 for like two seconds then rpms shot up to 5k RPM then died. then I turned the datalogit on, and started it again. This is what I got. This time car was started on its own power no jump

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Your MAP readings are way better. It is reading around atmospheric pressure with the car off, and a decent vacuum reading when the car is in fact running.

Your TPS is still way FUBAR'd, and now I'm confused. You have an FC with an FD UIM, TB, and TPS? In both those logs TPS is solid at ~5 volts, which is WOT. Something is screwed up, and I think you may have some wires crossed or something. Adjusting a series 4 TPS is a much different process from adjusting a series 5 or 6 (FD) TPS. The adjuster screw is on the front of TB (not the back one with the 8mm locknut on the FC TB) by the TPS. It's just a flathead screw, no locknut. The screw with the locknut is to adjust how much air the engine gets at idle (to help set idle speed), not to adjust the TPS. But I don't know so much about adjusting the s5 or s6 TPS because I have an s4, but try this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/tps-adjustment-help-high-idle-problem-2k-hesitation-712460/.

I think you need to check your wiring, especially since you said your TPS was reading 2ish volts but the log says 5 volts. If you do in fact have the FD TPS, I'm pretty sure you first need to connect the FD narrow range wire to your stock narrow range wire on the TPS harness, and I think you are supposed to run a wire from the FD full range wire to the wire marked "FRT" on the Banzai Racing adapter. It looks like the PFC might be seeing your reference voltage or something, or your TPS adjustment is insanely screwed up.

Also, you need to hook a wideband into the datalogit. It will help you (and us) diagnose problems. My car wouldn't idle when I first tried to start it up on the PFC, and I looked through wideband datalogs to determine that my idle was too lean.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well the tps being recorded is full range its not hooked up but it still reads full voltage I though the it might of used that voltage as a default. I am also lead to beleive that the full range voltage shouldn't mean **** due to the fact its only for signal to the electrial omp which I dont have. Narrow range is the important one for the throttle.
and yes I have an fc w/ fd uim tb tps and elbow. As for the wideband I will actually be purchasing an LM1 as soonnas I get some more money I'm in a ruff spot at the moment I got laid off a week ago so I gotta get back on my feet so I can finish this thing also need to find and unmalested tb. Im a bit happier now that my log almost looks normal