Power FC New single turbo basic map setup help
11-12-10, 08:10 PM
#1
New single turbo basic map setup help
hey guys I just got my single turbo conversion done. Im not lookin for anything fancy just some adjustments you guys could recommend for my setup so Its safe to drive.
seems to actually be running rich when i really mat the gas and make boost past 6psi. afr goes right to 10 and car bogs out from too much fuel. Reg is set at 36 psi at idle
BBT04e 65 trim turbonetics
1680cc injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Magnecor 10mm wires
HKS ignition amp
all trailing stock heatrange ngks
Aem Truboost
Aem Wideband
Alum Koyo Rad.
Greddy FMIC kit w/ blitz bov
seems to actually be running rich when i really mat the gas and make boost past 6psi. afr goes right to 10 and car bogs out from too much fuel. Reg is set at 36 psi at idle
BBT04e 65 trim turbonetics
1680cc injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Magnecor 10mm wires
HKS ignition amp
all trailing stock heatrange ngks
Aem Truboost
Aem Wideband
Alum Koyo Rad.
Greddy FMIC kit w/ blitz bov
Last edited by em55ron; 11-12-10 at 08:23 PM.
11-13-10, 10:55 PM
#4
Can anyone help me out with some minor corrections. It bogs out at high rpm even even if I'm hardly making any boost. AFR reads 10 flat from 4500 up. At 6k it gets so bad it bogs out. Not trying to beat on the car I just want to be able to drive it to work for a few days til I can get an appointment to dyno tune it.
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11-14-10, 06:57 PM
#9
Im new to rx7s but im not an idiot dude. Im not gonna romp on it and risk detonation on a recently rebuilt motor. Being that Im at least 3 hours from the closest tuner its gonna be a drive no matter where I go.
primaries are 550s
secondaries still set for 850s.. nothing has been touched
i have commander only
primaries are 550s
secondaries still set for 850s.. nothing has been touched
i have commander only
11-14-10, 07:22 PM
#10
be careful
Hey you need to set up the injectors to match what you are running to start with.
Cewerx7 is correct, he doesn't think you are an idiot, he just doesn't want you to pop your motor. You need to take it to a tuner who has a datalogit. You have too many mods to really be driving around with the "base map" whichever one it is. Especially if you are "matting the gas" and going past 6psi boost, this is very dangerous in an untuned rotary.
You need to se the secondary flow rate to match your injectors go to settings->injetor and change the Q-Sc to match your injector value of 1680 (I think with the commander you might only be able to go up to 1500, but at least it is closer and wil keep you on the rich side unti you get tuned..).
You should really change the front and rear secondary injector lag to something appropriate for your injectors. You will have to look at your documentation or search the forum to find a good value to start with.
Watch your AFR's after you make the changes and if you do bost the car which I don't recommend make sure you are in the ~11s or richer to start with under boost to be safe.
Good luck.
Cewerx7 is correct, he doesn't think you are an idiot, he just doesn't want you to pop your motor. You need to take it to a tuner who has a datalogit. You have too many mods to really be driving around with the "base map" whichever one it is. Especially if you are "matting the gas" and going past 6psi boost, this is very dangerous in an untuned rotary.
You need to se the secondary flow rate to match your injectors go to settings->injetor and change the Q-Sc to match your injector value of 1680 (I think with the commander you might only be able to go up to 1500, but at least it is closer and wil keep you on the rich side unti you get tuned..).
You should really change the front and rear secondary injector lag to something appropriate for your injectors. You will have to look at your documentation or search the forum to find a good value to start with.
Watch your AFR's after you make the changes and if you do bost the car which I don't recommend make sure you are in the ~11s or richer to start with under boost to be safe.
Good luck.
11-14-10, 07:50 PM
#11
^ Changing the secondary setting doesn't change any fueling.
The base map should let you be able to drive the car around in vacuum and low RPM on stock 550's. You should not be boosting on an untuned setup so the fact that it goes 10's doesn't matter and is actually a good thing. You need to get the car tuned, plain and simple.
If you have a datalogit, we might be able to give you a little more drivable map.
Also, on a side note, when you set fuel pressure, did you have the car running AND the vacuum hose off the regulator? Fuel pressure should be set to 38-40 PSi with the vacuum hose off and car running.
thewird
The base map should let you be able to drive the car around in vacuum and low RPM on stock 550's. You should not be boosting on an untuned setup so the fact that it goes 10's doesn't matter and is actually a good thing. You need to get the car tuned, plain and simple.
If you have a datalogit, we might be able to give you a little more drivable map.
Also, on a side note, when you set fuel pressure, did you have the car running AND the vacuum hose off the regulator? Fuel pressure should be set to 38-40 PSi with the vacuum hose off and car running.
thewird
Really?
11-14-10, 09:20 PM
#15
Putting your injector cc's in there is only used to calculate duty cycle but doesn't actually change anything in the tune itself.
edit - actually it might affect when your secondary injectors stage but that wouldn't have a large impact on much.
thewird
edit - actually it might affect when your secondary injectors stage but that wouldn't have a large impact on much.
thewird
11-17-10, 11:46 AM
#22
Think of it this way. you are measuring how much pressure is in the rail relative to the air outside. But the rail pressure really has to remain constant relative to where the fuel is spraying out (the fuel sprays into the intake manifold not the air).
When you are idling there is vacuum in the intake, so essentially the fuel is being sucked out of the injectors, so you don't need as much push from the fuel pressure to spray the fuel out. If the rail pressure didn't go down you would spray too much fuel.
On the other side when you are under boost the intake is pressurized by the turbo, so the air in the intake is pushing against the fuel preventing it from coming out of the injectors. The fuel pressure increases to compensate for this, otherwise you would not spray enough fuel.
So the pressure between the fuel rail and intake manifold are actually staying relatively the same ~38psi, but the pressure reltive to the outside air is fluctuating. If you had a differential pressure meter and measured beween the fuel rail and intake manifold it would stay about the same at 38psi when youa re under vacuum and boost...
hope this makes it easier to understand what is going on...
When you are idling there is vacuum in the intake, so essentially the fuel is being sucked out of the injectors, so you don't need as much push from the fuel pressure to spray the fuel out. If the rail pressure didn't go down you would spray too much fuel.
On the other side when you are under boost the intake is pressurized by the turbo, so the air in the intake is pushing against the fuel preventing it from coming out of the injectors. The fuel pressure increases to compensate for this, otherwise you would not spray enough fuel.
So the pressure between the fuel rail and intake manifold are actually staying relatively the same ~38psi, but the pressure reltive to the outside air is fluctuating. If you had a differential pressure meter and measured beween the fuel rail and intake manifold it would stay about the same at 38psi when youa re under vacuum and boost...
hope this makes it easier to understand what is going on...
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