SSDTURBO2

One question. In the sensor check what should the volt readings be?? I know i should have the tps at 1v. I just want to check on all the other ones

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ the other values are going to vary according to conditions. VMOP at 0 volts is normal as you don't have an electronic OMP. Fuel at about 5 volts is normal because you don't have a fuel temperature sensor. O2 sensor at 0 volts is normal too. You don't really need or want to run a factory o2 sensor on a Power FC in most cases.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

I may not remember correctly but are the vta1 and 2 suppose to match? I didnt think they did.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

VTA1 and VTA2 will match only with a series 4 TPS.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Ah IC. Thats why it looked weird to me. Thanks for the info!

SSDTURBO2

So today i drove the car and wasted about half a tank on 20 miles of driving i know it needs to be tuned but i need a better drivable map so i can break in the motor. My wide band doesnt even move from the rich side of the gauge and it tells me rch.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Yeah the VTA 1 & 2 the have to be the same

Our tp is reading 1.12v better than the 1.64v or the 2.00v we were getting...

throttle keeps messing up, we went through EVERYTHING as suggested to fix that lope...

Sunday were going to zip tie all the vac's and see if that doesn't help...There has to be vac leak somewhere...when the car gets up to normal op temp is when it does it...

Gas almost killed us...that **** is burning gas like crazy, but it felt alright NOT good but ol-right to drive it today...For me it was progress were getting there tho...

We also checked the map sen's from the connectors, that didn't or wasn't it either...We even took the connectors out of the stock wire harness clip and connected them directly to the map individually and nothing changed, so at this point it has to be something else...

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

What size injectors? High or low impedence? Factory resistor pack or soldered in?

Sounds like the car just need to be tuned.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you're in over your head. need a professional to look at it

SSDTURBO2

They injectors are stock 550 pri and 1600 sec.. And they are low impedence.

But doesnt the motor need to be broken in before i can get it tuned??

also i havent gone over 3500 when i drove the car.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

What map is loaded? My guess is it would run a lot better with a reputable base map. You could find one on here by doing a simple search. I wouldn't even be trying to drive it with it running so rich and shitty!

SSDTURBO2

this is the map this is loaded on the PFC

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Not going to get the car tuned while the motor is still getting broken in...The car only has 20 miles on it...The lope is not killing us just the fuel from running so rich...

Not in over our heads, not going to pay a tunner to go through the same steps that we are going through to end up paying a bunch of money to find the same problem that we are trying to do...All the info that is getting posted here on the thread is very useful and is helping us...

The car will get tunned properly after the car is broken in with the proper amount of break in miles, oil changes so on and so on...

Aside from doing all the zip ties on the vac that is our next plan of attack...To find a get a good running stock map...I would rather have the car run rich during idle and during drive then run lean and we pop an apex seal...

again thank you everybody for ALL of your help, issues that we didn't know that were there were fixed during our trouble shooting...

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Hey bro i thought we dropped in 680's from a gsl-se in the primes bro?

Did you ever find another map that we could try?

SSDTURBO2

No we didnt drop them in they are still the 550s

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Running 10 flat a/f trying to cruise is no good. Your not going to blow the motor cruising around in vacuum or idleing. You could use pretty much any "good" base map with your injector settings to break it in, just stay out of boost!

SSDTURBO2

my A/Frs have been 10 flat the whole time even when i took it out.. i guess what i want is not to be so rich when it idles or cruising.. i mean killing half a tank on 20 miles of cruising thats pretty ridiculous..

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried leaning it out in those cells?

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Do you have any datalogs to post? Is the a/f changing at all while revving or driving?

SSDTURBO2

Im kinda scared trying to lean out the map a lil bit thinking that i might do something wrong...

But no i dont have a log i forgot my laptop to log my drive.. And i dont have the wideband set up with the datalogit..

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

You can tune the map for idle and cruise without breaking the engine in, you must do it otherwise you are just going to stay running rich. However that is our base map which been used on many cars here at the shop that run perfectly with very little tweaking. You have something mechanical wrong with your setup that we could not have foreseen when supplying you the base map.

What is your fuel pressure set at? Does it hold pressure or drop to 0 when the car is turned off?

Answer my first question:

Factory resistor pack or soldered in?

SSDTURBO2

The fuel pressure should be set at stock since im using the stock regulator.

And it has the stock resistor pack..

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Check your fuel pressure, this could very easily be your issue. Just assuming it is at stock level is a big mistake.