Power FC need base map 550 pri 1200 sec
#1
need base map 550 pri 1200 sec
Been looking for two hours couldnt find anything. Some of the mods are single turbo Borg warner 262s, v-mount, greddy blowoff, emission block off, greddy compression tube, walboro 255, street port with ra classics, atkins solid corner seals, full greddy high power exhaust, 550 primaries 1200 secondaries. any help would be appreciated just need something to get it driving right til I take it to the tuner during spring time and i have a dataloggic too
#4
Ok well i guess theres something wrong because when its cold it runs fine but when it wams up it runs really rough. Another question would a street port make it run at higher temps 100 - 105 c
#7
Ya that's too rich for idle and light throttle driving. You should learn how to tune it yourself if you don't know how, it needs leaned out some, done by lowering the numbers in the inj map or base map, small amounts at a time and see how it goes.
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#8
Took the car out for a drive it was driving fine on idle and light throttle then it gets past 80 c and it starts running rough and leans out to 14 even when the car is parked and i rev it it leans out at 3k wont go higher
#11
Has it been tuned before or is it all default settings? I don't know if there could be something else wrong with the car. email me your .dat file and I'll take a look at it (you may have to put it in a zip folder and attach it to the email), tomtruxell at gmail dot com
#14
That shouldn't matter, that sensor gets removed/unplugged. And if it did make a difference it's only a 2% adjustment in the settings which isn't enough to make a big difference. Did you do a reset and then changed the fuel injector settings since you have 1200cc secondarys? Even if you didn't I think it should still idle not bad when hot compared to cold.
#15
I did a reset and then changed the injector setting to 1200cc. It runs good and pulls good til it warms the higher the worse it gets so bad that that is sputters past 2k and wont go higher
#18
I keep getting this feeling that the engine is blown. water jacket seals or maybe cracked plate, I know its not the apex seals because it has RA classics and i think the shop over boosted it. I went single turbo because the efini twins broke im guessing that something went wrong when tuning it.
the shaft snapped
the shaft snapped
#19
wow. did the car start having these problems after the that twin turbo blew? If so your engine could have injested some of those pieces when it happened, or later if some pieces were stuck in the intercooler and later sucked into the engine.
#20
I cleaned the inter cooler and piping and I dont know because they broke when it was getting tuned. Im going to take it out and rebuild another engine that I have, i already bought a seals kit. building it again and taking it to another place to get tuned.
#21
Took it part nothing wrong with the seals water jacket seals looked fine only problem that i saw was the oil control rings were really soft and streched out and the rotors had play on them and were showing a little copper.Also the reason the wheel was moving alot was because the person that built the engine pinched the washer bearing with the spacer when they tightened the front e shaft bolt
#23
Just got done rebuilding a different engine i had Ra classics apex seals, atkins solid corner seals, atkins thermal pellet, new oil pump, race port, RA water jacket seals, ported the runners and intake manifold. Should have it in the car by this weekend
Pic of the car
this is when it was twin turbo
Pic of the car
this is when it was twin turbo
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24seven_dada
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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11-10-18 01:03 PM