Power FC Mazda's AFR targets
#1
AFR targets values...Mazda's
Seems to be some confusion...people thinking that a SINGLE AFR is the goal. Look at this and think of your AFR goals after tuning as being in a 20x20 map.
Here is the link to AFR goals.
This is not what I would tune towards as a goal.
Here is the link to AFR goals.
This is not what I would tune towards as a goal.
Last edited by Badog; 12-23-02 at 12:12 AM.
#2
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 566
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
So the value's you tune for are contained within that spreadsheet? Seems pretty rich, although rich is safe. I'm assuming those values are for dyno tuning and not street tuning, which would lean you out about half a point.
Feel free to elaborate more
Feel free to elaborate more
#4
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
So the value's you tune for are contained within that spreadsheet? Seems pretty rich, although rich is safe. I'm assuming those values are for dyno tuning and not street tuning, which would lean you out about half a point.
Feel free to elaborate more
So the value's you tune for are contained within that spreadsheet? Seems pretty rich, although rich is safe. I'm assuming those values are for dyno tuning and not street tuning, which would lean you out about half a point.
Feel free to elaborate more
The important thing to notice is the obvious...what the goals are and how your cars behaves (it's much nicer with a WB!). How conservative are you? Ten percent less conservative? Twenty? Are you less conservative at idle and full vacuum then at 8000rpm and WOT?
Every journey has one thing in common...the first step. I'd start with what the Mazda engineers finished with. The AFR goals.
Tony
#5
Originally posted by Badog
No, Rich. That is how Mazda and subsequently Apexi tuned from/to.
The important thing to notice is the obvious...what the goals are and how your cars behaves (it's much nicer with a WB!). How conservative are you? Ten percent less conservative? Twenty? Are you less conservative at idle and full vacuum then at 8000rpm and WOT?
Every journey has one thing in common...the first step. I'd start with what the Mazda engineers finished with. The AFR goals.
Tony
No, Rich. That is how Mazda and subsequently Apexi tuned from/to.
The important thing to notice is the obvious...what the goals are and how your cars behaves (it's much nicer with a WB!). How conservative are you? Ten percent less conservative? Twenty? Are you less conservative at idle and full vacuum then at 8000rpm and WOT?
Every journey has one thing in common...the first step. I'd start with what the Mazda engineers finished with. The AFR goals.
Tony
Trending Topics
#8
Hey Badog, Dave Barninger's going to use his FC Datalogit to pre-tune a Power FC I'm buying from KDR. Since Kim Barninger's building my ported motor, Dave will know exactly how to modify the base maps to work with my motor and ancillaries. About the only fine-tuning I'll need is to adjust the AFRs at idle speed!
You're still welcome to attend my Putnam Park March 22 2003 event as a spectator or participant. I've been copying Jason Baughman on my event announcements, so contact him. Or you can just visit my MDC website in my sig below
You're still welcome to attend my Putnam Park March 22 2003 event as a spectator or participant. I've been copying Jason Baughman on my event announcements, so contact him. Or you can just visit my MDC website in my sig below
#9
Originally posted by SleepR1
Hey Badog, Dave Barninger's going to use his FC Datalogit to pre-tune a Power FC I'm buying from KDR. Since Kim Barninger's building my ported motor, Dave will know exactly how to modify the base maps to work with my motor and ancillaries. About the only fine-tuning I'll need is to adjust the AFRs at idle speed!
Hey Badog, Dave Barninger's going to use his FC Datalogit to pre-tune a Power FC I'm buying from KDR. Since Kim Barninger's building my ported motor, Dave will know exactly how to modify the base maps to work with my motor and ancillaries. About the only fine-tuning I'll need is to adjust the AFRs at idle speed!
You're still welcome to attend my Putnam Park March 22 2003 event as a spectator or participant. I've been copying Jason Baughman on my event announcements, so contact him. Or you can just visit my MDC website in my sig below
#11
Re: Care to elaborate
Originally posted by SleepR1
on what will fall short when Dave pre-tunes my Power FC with his FC Datalogit?
on what will fall short when Dave pre-tunes my Power FC with his FC Datalogit?
#12
Re: Re: Care to elaborate
I'll have my Power FC with ported motor in the car by then...
Originally posted by Badog
'll tell you why (and you can tell me what, where and when) when we share that meal at Indy...
'll tell you why (and you can tell me what, where and when) when we share that meal at Indy...
#14
Originally posted by capt. bill1
BD, if I understand you correctly the sheet you linked to are the stock A/F ratios as Mazda programed for 3rd Gen.?
BD, if I understand you correctly the sheet you linked to are the stock A/F ratios as Mazda programed for 3rd Gen.?
#15
O2 Sensors
My stock O2 sensor has 102,500 miles on it. I was going to replace it with a new stocker due to age, but because I'm putting in a ported motor, and Greddy 2-row FMIC, with J-spec twins, 11-psi controlled with an Apex Power FC, I wondered how accurate the stock O2 sensor would even be for use with an Apex Power FC?
Badog, what type of O2 sensor should I be using? Where and how much? Will it fit inside the stock location bung on my Bonez DP?
Thanks in advance
Badog, what type of O2 sensor should I be using? Where and how much? Will it fit inside the stock location bung on my Bonez DP?
Thanks in advance
#16
Re: O2 Sensors
Originally posted by SleepR1
My stock O2 sensor has 102,500 miles on it. I was going to replace it with a new stocker due to age, but because I'm putting in a ported motor, and Greddy 2-row FMIC, with J-spec twins, 11-psi controlled with an Apex Power FC, I wondered how accurate the stock O2 sensor would even be for use with an Apex Power FC?
Badog, what type of O2 sensor should I be using? Where and how much? Will it fit inside the stock location bung on my Bonez DP?
Thanks in advance
My stock O2 sensor has 102,500 miles on it. I was going to replace it with a new stocker due to age, but because I'm putting in a ported motor, and Greddy 2-row FMIC, with J-spec twins, 11-psi controlled with an Apex Power FC, I wondered how accurate the stock O2 sensor would even be for use with an Apex Power FC?
Badog, what type of O2 sensor should I be using? Where and how much? Will it fit inside the stock location bung on my Bonez DP?
Thanks in advance
The stock sensor isn't very accurate or extremely critical...most of the time. I think a single wire from NAPA under the Bosch name would be good, not to mention cheaper than the Mazda one. You might have to get creative with the wiring, though. I run a 3 wire, heated sensor, which has 2 additional wires that are wired into IGN power. This is out of a Ford that I can dig up the part number for. A little more creativity with the wiring. Stock locations for the narrow-band are fine.
I would suggest adding a new "bung" (NAPA carries a 18x1.5 metric 'Spark Plug Extender" that works when you chop off the end a bit...2 for under $5) into your DP or the MP/pre-CAT location. DP would be prefered, before you put the sucker in the car! Location should be accessible from under the car and from the passenger side (it is possible.) This one would be used for WB tuning and capped off when not being tuned. The WB O2 sensors run ~$120 when in stock. This one you want to have "downstream" a little ways.
Let me know if you need part numbers
#17
Re: Re: O2 Sensors
Tony,
I just want to be sure my oxygen sensor is functioning properly.
My original sensor is 102,500-miles old, and the factory only warrants them for 50,000 miles.
With a new motor, turbos, FMIC, and Apex Power FC going in, it seems prudent to replace the oxygen sensor too?
Here's a link Chuck Westbrook provided for a great deal on the OEM-style single wire oxygen sensor made by Walker Electronics. This is a direct plug-in replacement for the stock oxygen sensor. $36 is a bargain considering the price of the stock Mazda unit!
http://www.oxygensensors.com/
I just want to be sure my oxygen sensor is functioning properly.
My original sensor is 102,500-miles old, and the factory only warrants them for 50,000 miles.
With a new motor, turbos, FMIC, and Apex Power FC going in, it seems prudent to replace the oxygen sensor too?
Here's a link Chuck Westbrook provided for a great deal on the OEM-style single wire oxygen sensor made by Walker Electronics. This is a direct plug-in replacement for the stock oxygen sensor. $36 is a bargain considering the price of the stock Mazda unit!
http://www.oxygensensors.com/
Originally posted by Badog
Manny,
The stock sensor isn't very accurate or extremely critical...most of the time. I think a single wire from NAPA under the Bosch name would be good, not to mention cheaper than the Mazda one. You might have to get creative with the wiring, though. I run a 3 wire, heated sensor, which has 2 additional wires that are wired into IGN power. This is out of a Ford that I can dig up the part number for. A little more creativity with the wiring. Stock locations for the narrow-band are fine.
I would suggest adding a new "bung" (NAPA carries a 18x1.5 metric 'Spark Plug Extender" that works when you chop off the end a bit...2 for under $5) into your DP or the MP/pre-CAT location. DP would be prefered, before you put the sucker in the car! Location should be accessible from under the car and from the passenger side (it is possible.) This one would be used for WB tuning and capped off when not being tuned. The WB O2 sensors run ~$120 when in stock. This one you want to have "downstream" a little ways.
Let me know if you need part numbers
Manny,
The stock sensor isn't very accurate or extremely critical...most of the time. I think a single wire from NAPA under the Bosch name would be good, not to mention cheaper than the Mazda one. You might have to get creative with the wiring, though. I run a 3 wire, heated sensor, which has 2 additional wires that are wired into IGN power. This is out of a Ford that I can dig up the part number for. A little more creativity with the wiring. Stock locations for the narrow-band are fine.
I would suggest adding a new "bung" (NAPA carries a 18x1.5 metric 'Spark Plug Extender" that works when you chop off the end a bit...2 for under $5) into your DP or the MP/pre-CAT location. DP would be prefered, before you put the sucker in the car! Location should be accessible from under the car and from the passenger side (it is possible.) This one would be used for WB tuning and capped off when not being tuned. The WB O2 sensors run ~$120 when in stock. This one you want to have "downstream" a little ways.
Let me know if you need part numbers
#18
BD, do you have idea what boost levels that map is for?
You are absolutly correct about the fact that one A/F ratio is not what you want to tune for. That's why I think that while you need to do some dyno runs to get your A/Fs for top end power you also need to street tune for everyday driving. Unless you've got the bucks for lots of dyno runs.
But even then many dynos will not let you do low load runs. And even when they can I still question if it really is the same as driving/tuning on the road.
You are absolutly correct about the fact that one A/F ratio is not what you want to tune for. That's why I think that while you need to do some dyno runs to get your A/Fs for top end power you also need to street tune for everyday driving. Unless you've got the bucks for lots of dyno runs.
But even then many dynos will not let you do low load runs. And even when they can I still question if it really is the same as driving/tuning on the road.
#19
Originally posted by capt. bill1
BD, do you have idea what boost levels that map is for?
You are absolutly correct about the fact that one A/F ratio is not what you want to tune for. That's why I think that while you need to do some dyno runs to get your A/Fs for top end power you also need to street tune for everyday driving. Unless you've got the bucks for lots of dyno runs.
But even then many dynos will not let you do low load runs. And even when they can I still question if it really is the same as driving/tuning on the road.
BD, do you have idea what boost levels that map is for?
You are absolutly correct about the fact that one A/F ratio is not what you want to tune for. That's why I think that while you need to do some dyno runs to get your A/Fs for top end power you also need to street tune for everyday driving. Unless you've got the bucks for lots of dyno runs.
But even then many dynos will not let you do low load runs. And even when they can I still question if it really is the same as driving/tuning on the road.
I plan to do all my my tuning on the street, and only use the dyno to backup my powermeter numbers and maybe get a few details on powercurve adjustments that the powermeter can not yet provide...
I've also requested the from the datalogit guys a quasi-dyno function be built into the datalogit logging features...all the data is there to calculate hp & torque across the powerband minus the weight of the car which is easily obtained @ your local truck weight station.
K
#20
Originally posted by capt. bill1
BD, do you have idea what boost levels that map is for?
You are absolutly correct about the fact that one A/F ratio is not what you want to tune for. That's why I think that while you need to do some dyno runs to get your A/Fs for top end power you also need to street tune for everyday driving. Unless you've got the bucks for lots of dyno runs.
But even then many dynos will not let you do low load runs. And even when they can I still question if it really is the same as driving/tuning on the road.
BD, do you have idea what boost levels that map is for?
You are absolutly correct about the fact that one A/F ratio is not what you want to tune for. That's why I think that while you need to do some dyno runs to get your A/Fs for top end power you also need to street tune for everyday driving. Unless you've got the bucks for lots of dyno runs.
But even then many dynos will not let you do low load runs. And even when they can I still question if it really is the same as driving/tuning on the road.
Last edited by Badog; 01-01-03 at 09:25 PM.
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