Well, I fixed the 6300rpm rev limitation problem I was having. It did end up being in the secondary injector overlap settings. I was completely tuned up to 6000rpm at 12psi before this point, so I started tuning 6000+rpm, same boost levels. Got to 7000rpm just fine, then started doing 7000+. Logged and monitored some runs changing things slightly. Knock was looking great, never getting above 20 or so on wot runs.

On my last run of the day (of course), I bring it to ~7500rpm (iirc) and all of a sudden there was what felt like ignition breakup, so I let off immediately. I look in the rearview mirror to see a nice black smoke trail behind me. I get to my exit about half a mile later and of course it stalled and wouldn't start back (I just hoped I could limp it home). I checked vacuum lines/spark plugs and everything looks fine, so I am expecting the worst.

So, while waiting for the tow truck i'm checking out my logs of the last run and can't figure out what went wrong. My A/F was at 10.9-11.0 when at full boost and upper rpm, my ignition timing was 11 deg adv, and my knock was at ~20 the whole time until it hit 51 at the time it blew. The thing I can't figure out is why it would have done this. I had run and logged this same style run 3 times prior with no indication that something was wrong.

Could this have been an issue with using the stock ignition without an amplifier of any kind and getting some kind of breakup? If needed I can post up the screen shots I took of the log. I just have to get them off of my laptop first.

BTW, I am running stock heat range spark plugs all around.

 

51 to blow at above 7000 rpm, I seriously doubt it!
Especially with your rich AFRs for only 12psi boost.

In my tuning experience high knock values were always below 6000 rpms.

Most likely you have:
(1) a plug problem due to running stock plugs, nobody runs stock plugs when going for above stock power. At lease run all 9s.
(2) your map sensor line came off.

Don't assume the worse. Only verification is the truth.

 

Yup, I'd be very surprised if you hurt the motor.

 

The map sensor line is the first thing that I checked when I pulled over...it was good. I will get a whole new set of 9s and see if it starts for me (that would be so crucial...as in incredibly crucial).

If it is not the plugs, could it be something else in the ignition system?

 

Alright....here are the logs that I pulled...I lied about one aspect...I wasn't at 11.0 AFR, I was at 10.1. But here are the knock and wideband logs. I thought I took a screen shot of the IGL log as well, but I guess I didn't.

 

You were around 12psi boost then at the end started jumping into the 14psi area before 6800 rpm.
11 AFRs are OK for 14psi boost. Show us your timing map and mod list.

 

here is my timing map...split is identical to the map in the tuning notes.

EDIT...mod list...

-Stock Motor
-Garrett T04R Ball-Bearing Turbo (.84 Turbine A/R)
-HKS Type-R V-Mount Intercooler Kit
-A-Spec Tuning 4" Turboback Exhaust System
-Exoticspeed Exhaust Manifold
-Tial 46mm Wastegate w/ Atmospheric Dump
-Tial 50mm Blow-off Valve
-K2RD Secondary Fuel Rail
-Bosch 1680cc Secondary Injectors
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Nippon-Denso Fuel Pump
-Apex'i Power FC
-Koyo Aluminum Radiator
-Pettit Aluminum AST
-Dual 19-Row Earl's Oil Coolers w/ Thermostat
-Odyssey PC-680 Battery
-Removed PS, A/C, Emissions, Double Throttle, etc.

 

Timing looks safe.

 

Well I went outside today, charged up the battery, took all of the spark plugs out, unflooded the engine (the sounds it made while unflooding were not a consistant s-s-s-s-s-s-s-s-s, but actually s-s-s-s-s---s-s-s-s-s...5-pause-5-pause-5...this made me uneasy), put in 4 new #9 spark plugs anyway, reconnected everything.....and still no start. Don't know where to go from here, but the unflooding procedure smells like demise.

 

Do a compression test to confirm you don't have any broken seals that's your first step, that way you know if your engine is still good and if you need to go further into diagnosing the problem. A knock value of 51 isn't that high but if your sensor is bad it might be saying 51 but it really hit 121.

 

I am going to go pick one up right now I suppose.

I had a video of the engine sound, but it is in cell phone format and I can't get it to play on my computer.

 

you posted the IGL but how much split are you running?

 

nevermind... i failed to read the last part of your post... sorry.

 

DO the s4 s5 turbo motors use a similar knock sensor?

 

Keep in mind the stock knock sensor isnt known for it's accuracy.....I've seen knock values of 240 once years ago, and recently over 150 with zero damage to the motor. Typically my values are in the 40s now that I have the water injection.

 

How many miles on this engine?

 

92k miles on the engine...original motor

I tested the compression...quickly cause it was about to rain and was dark outside (will do a better one this weekend), but anyway...I uploaded 2 videos of it to youtube. The first rotor was a good consistent pulse, but the second video hardly even registered on the gauges.

Note: this is with me holding the schrader valve open so that is the sticking you see. The first major notch is 30 psi and the motor is obviously 100% cold and turning over at a fairly low rpm.

Rotor 1: (for some reason this video isn't available right now, but it is a consistent bounce to about 30psi)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VklCT1aIdXA

Rotor2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODcho2rPYvA

 

beauty of mazda apex seals really. Nothing wrong and thing just goes pop. had it happen to me many times. No pinging, no lean mixture. No problems at all.
rebuild the engine and it will go for a while again and then just randomly pop.

 

Trying to run over 300whp on an old engine is gambling with fate.
It probably blew due to being worn out, not to tuning.

 

That is what I was assuming. I guess before I started I didn't realize the slightly older engine would be so much weaker. I am just glad it wasn't my tuning...I knew it was going well and then all of a sudden destruction.

I will be back again though...engine comes out next week for inspection. I just have to find someone who will port the engine for me without actually building it (the reason I didn't port the rebuild in my previous FD).

 

Go back to your log and check max knock rather than average knock, a 51 average can easily be 100++ max knock. I always look at the max knock and actually watch the monitor screen for max knock during a run, if it goes above 50-60 I abort the run for analysis and tweaks to the map. Every time I've seen 100+ max knock during boost the motor blew or chipped an apex seal.

To see if it was ignition misfire I look at the range of AFR between min and max within a high rpm cell under wot/full boost, you will notice the range gets larger with misfire. This will give you an indication if you need to fix/upgrade ignition.

Definitely get cooler heat range plugs.

I would suggest that if you are modding an old motor go ahead and get it compression checked to see if it's still tight. Low compression means leaking seals, they produce hot spots and that promotes detonation.

 

Me bad for not noticing that the knock was AVG as I only look at MAX as Kyle stated. I presumed/assumed that people would do this.