Str8Down

I installed a PFC, and was trying to do the "learn idle" process. It worked great, and it figured out the idle with no load and with EL load, but when I turn on AC, it cannon learn that and keeps surging until it stalls. I looked at the VTA1 and VTA2 values, and they are .34 and .82 and they do not change no matter what I turn on (lights, AC, etc.) Are these values correct, and are they suppoed to change withy different loads? Any ideas why it learns perfectly with EL load no load, but not with AC? Also, the AC black dot comes on in all 4 fan positions, so I know thta's not it.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

VTA 1 and 2 are related to the throttle position sensor. If the voltage values are out of spec then they will be highlighted. Some R1s had problems with the a/c on earlier pfcs. Ironically, mine did not have any a/c problems, but I went ahead and deleted my a/c shortly thereafter .

What year and trim level is your fd, and what version of the pfc did you install?

Str8Down

94 PEP and it's the 5.08 version.

TangoSore

I highly recommend you get a tune for your recent PFC. After having my PFC for a few months with the ASSumption that it was rich (because all SR maps are, right?), I had it tuned this past Sat. and it was very, very lean all over the map--even at idle.

The PFC is probably the best modification you can do, and if you have an SR Motorsports map it is most likely plenty rich--but a wide-band Motec will tell you for sure where you stand. I made a silly assumption and was very wrong....if it were Fall or Winter (cooler air-charge) I could have easily popped the motor with the by-mail map. Be safe 'till you get a tune.

Str8Down

Yeah, this is an SR map. But tuned for more mods than I have. Should I reset the PFC to the base map? Is that any different than the stock ECU?

TangoSore

The base is what the original owner's mod.s were when he/she ordered the PFC.
You'll still be guessing and assuming--just like I did. You will also be gambling. You have a used PFC and no warrantee of any kind.
A tune will run you $100-$300 and you will have a better running car with some peace of mind. Why the resistance?

Str8Down

I don't mind spending the money, but there is nobody local that I know of that can tune "Professionally".

TangoSore

Fair enough.

First do a search and then you might try David Garfinkle @ 615.893.4469 and ask him or his son whom they recommend relatively close to you.

Good luck with it.

Senna

TangoSore--you mean putting it on a dyno right??

TangoSore

Senna: Or a street tune with a wide band and Motec.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I think you mean a Datalogit. A Motec is another kind of ECU, like a Haltech or AEM......

TangoSore

Okay. I thought the Motec reads the wide band and the Datalogit is used to adjust the cells.

However, I've been wrong this year already. Oh well.


Edit: My tuner used Motec's wide band display--but I didn't know about their stand alone ecu. Thanks.

FCdemon

motec makes a (very expensive) wideband. I think you just mean get it tuned with a WB, which is what's necessary for tuning the fuel.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

If your VTA1 and VTA2 values are .34 and .82; then they are too low.

Your TPS needs adjusting.