Power FC Info on the "4 wires" that must be cut!
#1
Info on the "4 wires" that must be cut!
For those of you that might be interested in this, I did some research today in the shop manual regarding the 4 wires that need to be cut for the PFC to work properly. The four wires that need to be cut are (from left to right):
4O (1st wire on top)= EGR solenoid valve
4P (1st wire on bottom)= AWS solenoid valve
4F (2nd wire on bottom)= Split air Bypass solenoid valve
3J (last wire on bottom)= EGR switch (California cars only) and DRL (Canada cars only)
So, it looks like only 3 of those wires affect the non-cali cars, and only 2 have some importance(emissions). Overall it's not as bad as I thought it would be! Hope this helps! Good luck!
4O (1st wire on top)= EGR solenoid valve
4P (1st wire on bottom)= AWS solenoid valve
4F (2nd wire on bottom)= Split air Bypass solenoid valve
3J (last wire on bottom)= EGR switch (California cars only) and DRL (Canada cars only)
So, it looks like only 3 of those wires affect the non-cali cars, and only 2 have some importance(emissions). Overall it's not as bad as I thought it would be! Hope this helps! Good luck!
#3
because i cut the wrong wires?
if you cut the wrong wires or better yet if you pulled the wrong pins out of the power fc will it cause the car to pull back hard when it starts to spool up (boost) at 3000 rpm?
i followed the directions on the pfc and i made sure that i was removing the right pins from the outside of the pfc, i installed it and i have to admit it worked fine for three days. then when i drove the car again i pushed it to see if i gained any improvement from it, when i reach 3000 rpm and the car starts to spool up it pulls the car back hard. before the pfc installation i had acheck engine light that read code 11 and 16, egr and o2 sensor. is it those two or is it the pfc? my mechanic is currently looking at it and he says the check engine light comes on because the harnesses aren't making contact or are not sending signal. i will check again with him today.
mods:
apex gt spec exhaust
pettit resonated mp
hks dp
apex pfc
new vac lines
ast replacement
act ss clutch
i followed the directions on the pfc and i made sure that i was removing the right pins from the outside of the pfc, i installed it and i have to admit it worked fine for three days. then when i drove the car again i pushed it to see if i gained any improvement from it, when i reach 3000 rpm and the car starts to spool up it pulls the car back hard. before the pfc installation i had acheck engine light that read code 11 and 16, egr and o2 sensor. is it those two or is it the pfc? my mechanic is currently looking at it and he says the check engine light comes on because the harnesses aren't making contact or are not sending signal. i will check again with him today.
mods:
apex gt spec exhaust
pettit resonated mp
hks dp
apex pfc
new vac lines
ast replacement
act ss clutch
#4
I installed my PFC without cutting any wires. The car starts fine, the car idles fine, the car accelerates fine. I have some surging, could this be coming from the fact that I didn't cut the wires? Ray at SR told me I didn't need to.
Richard
Richard
#5
Originally posted by Roadracing7
I installed my PFC without cutting any wires. The car starts fine, the car idles fine, the car accelerates fine. I have some surging, could this be coming from the fact that I didn't cut the wires? Ray at SR told me I didn't need to.
Richard
I installed my PFC without cutting any wires. The car starts fine, the car idles fine, the car accelerates fine. I have some surging, could this be coming from the fact that I didn't cut the wires? Ray at SR told me I didn't need to.
Richard
#6
what if you leave those wires in, what would happen? are you supposed to cut the wires from the factory harness or the prongs from the pfc itself (cause thats what i did and i think it may still contact the harness and is causing the hesitation in the car)
luigi
luigi
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