Hello,

This may sounld really dumb but I was wondering if you run a PFC does your ICS still work? If so can it be controlled? I have a problem with my idel when the car is warm it want to idle at about 1500. I am going to pull it off and clean it tomorrow.

I have already adjusted the TPS, but couldnt get both of the pins in there voltage range. Would that mean my TPS is bad as well?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

Post 28,853 on PFC idle ... maybe I'm off a bit on the number.

Yep, the post is dumb. There is sufficient info available in this forum to answer your first question 28,853 times.

No need to buy a PFC, you can just unplug the ISC connector and adjust idle manually, it works surprisingly well. You will need to read up on the Rx7 idle control and understand what the wax rod is doing or you might chase your tail on setting the idle. I deleted the ISC, wax rod, and coolant to the TB ... then set idle with the elbow thingy.

TPS is another issue that perhaps someone else can chime in on or perhaps you can search and teach yourself.

 

I have noticed that people who know how to tune and adjust the idle on cars with carbs, usually are better at doing the same with FI cars. Must have to do with being more mentally mature and undestanding what all affects idle and how it does it.
Just my $200 worth!

 

My car is tuned by kan, i removed the coolant hose long ago, and the double throttle... and sometimes i'll come to a stop and it will just die.

BTW - the dashpot works fine.

Sometimes it'll drop from 1000rpm down to 500rpm and barely pick back up, othertimes it will only drop down to 800rpm or so and pick back up, otheritmes it just falls and wont come back up.

Running 850cc primary.. ISC isn't plugged in... and when I do plug it in, ISc likes to keep idle at 1500rpm.

Normal idle for me is 1000.

 

Part of the trick with tuning the idle without an ISC is setting the fuel right. I have talked about this before on the forum and I believe Chuck may have as well. If you think about what the maps do when rpms or vacuum changes a bit at idle it should be easy to figure out how to keep things rock solid & stable.

 

i've tried leaning out the map, but it seems the crapass pfc software will only let you go so low (cause of its high and low limits) - apparantly steve had it tuned so i can't lower the fuel anymore than it already is... i'd have to change the injector lag and i'm not going to screw with that.

The idle is fine...

Its when coming to a stop.. when the idle has to catch from an RPM drop, thats where the problem is. I'll stop, and it'll be cool for a couple seconds, then it will bog down to 500 or so, and then pick back up. Doesn't ALWAYS pick up.. but 70% of the time it does.

 

You must have larger primaries, to lean them out at idle you need to play with the lag.

 

i'm not experienced enough to mess with injector lag - i'm afraid it might throw the rest of my tune off. Tune is rich as hell right now, but i dont get any breakup or misfires. But i run 12.5 at idle which is pig *** rich. Cruise is also the same.. 12-5, boost is 11.5-10.5 up to 18psi.

The primaries are 850cc

 

I got mine set, I think. I have a street port and it starts at 800 as it warms it sits right at 1000. I did disconnect the ICS and zip tied the fast idle cam open.

The way it was fixed I think also was I had to readjust the TPS once again I remembered that the radio was on and it screwed with the voltage readings. So I shut off the radio reset the postion on the TPS and she idled low and steady. Also opened up the screw on the bottom of the thottle body a little, sounded a little lumpy at first and that fixed it.

 

You have to play to learn!
Of course it will affect the rest but not as much as you think. Do the math.