DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

OK, sat down and wrote a how-to on this sucker today. Right click and save as to your PC -

http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/pfcwarn.pdf

Let me know if any parts aren't clear or something is wrong and I'll revise the document.

In a nutshell - you add another wire to the stock wiring harness, and tap it into the Check Engine light. With this done, the PowerFC will blink the Check Engine light if you have excessive knock or excessive injector duty cycle. Works just fine on my car. This adaptation is necessary since the Japanese cars (for which the PFC was designed) have a different warning light system.

This is quite handy, as it's easily in your field of view when driving - you'll know when to let off if you're seeing too much knock.

Enjoy,
Dale

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I went to the FD forum, followed the link to where the FSM is posted as a zip file,
downloaded it, went to section F and found the B-1b diagram,
and there was the EL Unit and pins labeled.

Did all of this even though I already have the original manuals from Mazda.
Why, to show that Dale gave all that was needed.

"So easy even a caveman can do it."

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Is the diagram you drew of the ELD connector from the wire side or the pin side?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Wiring diagrams are always from the wire side.

Yeah, it was already documented, but it was scattered about, and I wanted to put it all together in one place for posterity.

Dale

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Could the O/B wire be backed out of the ELD harness and connected directly to the wire coming from the 1V pin? It would be easier to connect it like that than trying to strip back the insulation.

Noxlupus

Dale, you are the man! I don't care what HDP says about you!

(Haven't we been here before?)

HDP

iTrader: (2)

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Seriously doubt it - that wire is WAY too short going into the ELD box, and the pin is most likely different, since it's a different connector style. Not to mention how impossible it would be to pull that pin out of the ELD connector - that sucker is WAY buried in there.

Dale

HDP

iTrader: (2)

I have a way I can connect it, I just need to know if removing it from the harness will matter.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Hey, if it'll work, go for it . Shouldn't matter if you pull it from the ELD box.

Dale

ReadyKW

Great info Dale. If I understand correctly from the other threads, this mod will also flash the CEL when the ignition is turned on (to appease the Smog Gods), correct?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Correct. Light comes on with the key to On position, car not running, then goes out about 1-2 seconds after engine start.

Dale

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

So say if I want to add a light to my car, to make up this warning system. I have an 82 FB, The output from 1V is a negative, the ecu grounds this wire out. Is this correct? So I would just wire the other side of the aftermarket LED or idiot light, to a key on, positive wire.

Thanks

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

In theory - I'd check the output with a multimeter to see if it's 12v or ground, that's the best way to be sure.

Dale

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Correct - use a 1.4watt bulb like the stocker is. One side is 12v ignition, other side connect to 1V from the pfc.

Idiot light circuit is fed from the "meter" 12v ingintion circuit on one side. The O/B wire has to be the ground.


tom

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Grrrrreat! write up Dale!

I might have to give this a try?

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

I don't have any probes so i'm using a set of "precision" screwdrivers to try to lift that tang and pull the connector out.

It isn't working.

I've tried lifting with one and pushing with another. lifting and pulling with my teeth. burying my face in the housing to see whats going on and trying. This is rediculous.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Use a heavy-duty safety pin or hat pin.

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

It's sorted, i broke it. At least 5 or 6 of the connectors were salvagable, which is good because i broke two of them trying to get them to go into the 7 harness.

The one that i pulled out of the 626 had two little (tiny) metal tabs on the bottom that i had to break off but then it slid right in.

It's a lot easier to use these connectors on the orange and black wire than to solder. just slide your jumper wire in one side influence the orange and black wire in the other and crimp- done.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

good write-up!

LateBraking

Sorry for a super necro-bump but, wondering if anyone still has a copy of this PDF in the original post? I know I'm late to the party but I just recently got my FD and I'm looking into this.

Thanks fellas!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its pretty simple, the JDM cars have the exhaust overheat light where the US car would have the check engine light. the JDM cars have no check engine light. so what you need to do is run the ecu's exhaust overheat output to the US cars check engine light, and then the ECU's warnings will light up the check engine light.

you should double check this (there are some other threads), but pin 1V Overheat Lamp on the ecu needs to go to pin 1F on the car

LateBraking

Thank you, I ended up finding the document in some random archive on Google after spending like an hour searching this forum and other sources. I just know people are always told to search and not for our lack of trying, but a lot of links and resources seem dead now, and the pioneering members seem to have gone inactive. Makes me a bit melancholic thinking this reflects the state of rotaries now.

Anyyyyways, I'll re-upload the document in this post, should anyone else be searching the forums and stumble upon expired links as I did.

Rub20B

Could it be if the PFC sees no MOP connected it keeps this light on? The car is an S4 so it has mechanical OMP. When I test it by lowering the knock limit it starts to blink so from wiring side its all correct.

update: after some reading it was clear the PFC does have pretty good diagnose of the OMP and puts the light on as soon as the VMOP is a bit away from its setpoint. therefore fooling it with a resistor like one could do on the fuel temp sensor does not work. I saw no other solution than to invert the signal as the PFC does still flash the light on a inj/knock warning. I just used a simple 2n2222 transistor and hooked the pin 1V to the base. From the base also a 1kOhm pull up to the 5V and then the collector goes to the wire from the warning light and the emitter goes to a ground.

Now when the PFC wants to keep the light on because of the missing OMP it grounds pin 1V and then there is no voltage/current going to the base of the transistor. When the PFC flashes the light it will briefly let pin 1V loose from ground and then the pull up resistor feeds a current into the transistors base and pulls the collector to ground and the light will blink.

Bret Maddison

I am trying the same idea with a s8 and using a haltech. So stand by.
if anyone would like to chime in who has done this,

There is a wire on the OEM harness, (4ai ) service code output signal. I will start there.
The haltech will either have active state as ground, inactive as internal pull up to battery voltage ( or inverse )
So this is very different from a power fc