Speedworks

Hy guys,


I'm breaking in an allmost brand new engine with a Judge ito race port and I'm finding it really hard to get my car to run more or less appropriate.


These are my specs:

- Judge Ito race port engine (streetport): new housins, new irons...
- all emissions removed (incl. airpump)
- stock injectors (550-850)
- not running any boost for break in)
- double throttle removed
- PFC apexi ECU
- Innovative LC1 WB kit
- Trust 80mm downpipe
- OEM kat (next week to be replaced with silenced midpipe)

- brand new tranny with SPEC single plate clutch (new)

Mapping: currently using BDC's modified streetport mapping (for 550-850cc injectors)

Current status: the engine runs, revs pretty well with no load (stationary). picking up revs below 1500rpm mostly happens with a brief hold back. Seems like the engine chokes for a moment and then revs up again.

wenn driving, the engine performs pretty well under 3000rpm (except for the hold back below 1500rpm). picking up speed in low gears gives occasional bogging (fe. 2 gear turn and picking up speed).

from 3-4000rpm the engine changes sound and it feels like a Honda 4 cilinder at 7000rpm. It runs but it feels like it holds back and has difficulty to climb revs freely (like a rotary should do normally). Strange thing is that when I tip the clutch it can rev freely, when putting back in gear it can't.

I could allmost get to think it's a tranny problem, but its brand new.

Additionally, I have the Innovative LC1 kit but it's the 6 wire verson. I hooked it up like the manual for the 13B on their website and put in a value range between 9 and 16 AFR. First I did it in just one tab and got all values below 9 on my log file.

Then I changed the AFR values in both the tabs (the programming tabs in the Logworks program). Ever since, I'm reading AFR 9 all over my logfile.
So it means that the WB is reading AFR 9 (1:9) or lower (9 is the minimum value).
Logicall result would be a too rich mixture.

So I took 5% fuel off the first 5 by 5 grid on the injector correction file to test if I would see higher bumbers on the WB. THe car was iddling but when tapping the throttle it felt like it was running out of fuel.

Now, I found out Innovative has had several problems with the 6 wire WB kits and now have a 7 wire version which seems to work better. I asked them for a replacement as I'm pretty sure ine is not worikng properly (answer pending)

I'm using all the available excel files to pre test my changes on the PFC.

When I put in the log file (the one with all 9's) and have it recalculate the injector correction , the car won't run no more.

My next move is to rest the PFC back to OEM settings and take it from there


Any other remarks, advice etc would be highly appreciated from my side.

Many thanks in advance,
Neal

arghx

iTrader: (3)

search for a thread I made in the PFC forum about LC-1 wiring

Jason

iTrader: (5)

Reset the PFC back to stock settings and see how it runs. For just cruising it should be fine.

Speedworks

Just an extra thought.


Some people leave the solenoid connectors on the cable tree even thought they remove the solenoids ( when doing a non seq or single conversion)

I was told at first that the PFC doesn't mind if the connectors are connected or not.

So afterwards I was told I had to solder in 330ohm resistors when removing the solenoid rack (for my full non seq conv) even though I use a PFC.

I put thel in but was it really necessary? and what effect whould this have on the PFC functionallity?


Other Q. Can anyone post a pic of the knock sensor? (I think I know, just wanna be sure) as my PFC doesn't read anything on knock level (blank value)

Many thnaks once again.

Ottoman

the knock sensor is down below the oil dipstick neck and near the spark plugs.. it looks like a Giant Nut..

with a wire dangling out of the back of it..

can't miss it..


no need to install resistors... I am running non-seq. and all my connectors are left open and off.. I don't have problems

when u first used ur PFC did u do the Learning mode?

Speedworks

Yes I did do the learning cyclus it went pretty normal (just like when I used it on my previous car without mods.

Does it matter that I have the resistors in? or should I remove them again?

on the center console the katalyst overheat light is burning too, so there are failure codes in the system (maybe I'm experiencing limp mode??)

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you turned off sequential turbo control right?

Speedworks

yeah I did and idle control as well...all others are on...


I just don't read a thing on the knock sensor

Ottoman

is your O2 feedback ON?

if u don't have an airpump.. u need to disable the O2

otherwise ur idle will be aweful

Speedworks

no it's off because I use the LC1 WB kit

Speedworks

Ok, I reset the PFC and the car runs ALOT better. Hardly any bogging just a little hurdle at 5000rpm (no boost)

LC1 still logging at a constant '9' AFR but I need to recalibrate it and see what happens then.
The gauge is now reading 9:1 AFR ( like the log file does) so that might turn out ok...