Power FC Frustrated with AEM UEGO
#1
7-itis
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Frustrated with AEM UEGO
I can't get consistent readings off of the 0-5v output and it's driving me nuts! Comparing the display of the gauge and the watches I have set up on the laptop, it seems that it's anywhere from .5 - .3 leaner on the watch I have set up in FCedit.
So far I've tried different values in the auxiliary setup in FCedit, ranging from the values pulled from the manual (0v=10 4.25=18.5) to my current 0v=9 and 5v=22. I also have another ground wire ran from the UEGO harness to AN2 on the datalogit, and have selected "Delta AN1/AN2" in the auxiliary setup as per the tutorials I have read.
At idle under the current settings, it logs ~.5afr leaner than the display. Sometimes. At WOT and ~10psi, it seems to log .3-.5afr leaner. Which is good I guess, since I'm using correction tables and it's just going to end up a bit richer than I want... safety. The gap seems to be so inconsistent and I feel like it's going to throw my corrections off. Already I have a few rich/lean conditions in the normal driving ranges that I'm sure were caused by the seemingly random gaps thrown into my tables.
I don't know what to do. For the $223 I paid, I feel burned by a product that doesn't seem to work as advertised. With the values from the AEM manual plugged in and using the 'recalc log' checkbox in FCedit, it seem to log almost .8afr leaner that what I remember seeing on the gauge.
The "close" (call it .2-.5afr) values that I'm getting now are... workable, since it's on the rich side, but for christ's sake is accuracy too much to ask? Sorry for doing a bit of venting, I just wanted to know if anyone has any tips. I've searched to get the results I have now, but I'm just not happy. I don't feel like I can trust my motor with this.
So far I've tried different values in the auxiliary setup in FCedit, ranging from the values pulled from the manual (0v=10 4.25=18.5) to my current 0v=9 and 5v=22. I also have another ground wire ran from the UEGO harness to AN2 on the datalogit, and have selected "Delta AN1/AN2" in the auxiliary setup as per the tutorials I have read.
At idle under the current settings, it logs ~.5afr leaner than the display. Sometimes. At WOT and ~10psi, it seems to log .3-.5afr leaner. Which is good I guess, since I'm using correction tables and it's just going to end up a bit richer than I want... safety. The gap seems to be so inconsistent and I feel like it's going to throw my corrections off. Already I have a few rich/lean conditions in the normal driving ranges that I'm sure were caused by the seemingly random gaps thrown into my tables.
I don't know what to do. For the $223 I paid, I feel burned by a product that doesn't seem to work as advertised. With the values from the AEM manual plugged in and using the 'recalc log' checkbox in FCedit, it seem to log almost .8afr leaner that what I remember seeing on the gauge.
The "close" (call it .2-.5afr) values that I'm getting now are... workable, since it's on the rich side, but for christ's sake is accuracy too much to ask? Sorry for doing a bit of venting, I just wanted to know if anyone has any tips. I've searched to get the results I have now, but I'm just not happy. I don't feel like I can trust my motor with this.
#2
I've never seen it read properly on a Datalogit. I was tuning an SR20DET power FC about two months ago and the guy had an AEM UEGO. Even with Delta AN1 - AN2 it was always off by at least .2 AFR.
If you are interested in selling it, I have a friend who may be interested in it for a non Rx-7 project.
If you are interested in selling it, I have a friend who may be interested in it for a non Rx-7 project.
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
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I've never been pleased with the AEM widebands. They're a crapshoot for reliability, and they're just not that well designed or made.
Go with the Innovate LC-1 and DB gauge. It's dirt cheap, dead reliable, has a solid 0-5v output and a simple, clean looking gauge.
Dale
Go with the Innovate LC-1 and DB gauge. It's dirt cheap, dead reliable, has a solid 0-5v output and a simple, clean looking gauge.
Dale
#4
In the Garage
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+1. I had the AEM originally, did lots of reading before I installed it and sold it due to reliability issues and evidence of losing accuracy at low AFR's. I picked up the innovate and could not be happier. XD-16 is also worth the money, very easy calibration, data logging and its even pretty easy to connect to the datalogit.
#5
7-itis
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Thanks for the input, guys. I was looking at the LC-1 today and it seems be favored, and the price of the DB gauge and LC-1 seems reasonable. Doesn't look like it comes with the serial cable, but amazon.com seems to have that. Then again I might not have to program the LC-1 if the voltage range is in the manual?
It's my own fault for not reading and doing some research, but I guess I learned my lesson. Does the AEM actually work properly on other dataloggers?
arghx check your pm's. Thanks again.
It's my own fault for not reading and doing some research, but I guess I learned my lesson. Does the AEM actually work properly on other dataloggers?
arghx check your pm's. Thanks again.
#6
Senior Member
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i have AEM wide band on my car it works just fine... just make sure it welded in right after turbo about 3" and 45 angle ...
if its to far from the turbo or welded straight on top..you wont get accurate readout... if you got that part down... you need to calibrate it...
i also use AEM true boost with no problems...
if its to far from the turbo or welded straight on top..you wont get accurate readout... if you got that part down... you need to calibrate it...
i also use AEM true boost with no problems...
#7
Senior Member
my AEM wideband seems fine. and i also use a trueboost
The funny thing is, ym friend has an LC1 and his just crapped out, adn i've had mine in for 2 years and him only 6 months :P
The funny thing is, ym friend has an LC1 and his just crapped out, adn i've had mine in for 2 years and him only 6 months :P
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#9
In the Garage
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Installing the O2 sensor that close to the turbine with thrash the sensor in a short period of time and is against manufacturer install recommendations. It should be mounted 36in from the turbo before the cat. <--Per AEM (in the instruction manual) for accurate readings and sensor life. This is true for all widebands.
The LC-1 does have its own unique set of problems but also seems to be a better quality product. Main tricky thing is make sure you have a good ground connection for the sensor and the xd-16 gauge.
The LC-1 does have its own unique set of problems but also seems to be a better quality product. Main tricky thing is make sure you have a good ground connection for the sensor and the xd-16 gauge.
#10
Installing the O2 sensor that close to the turbine with thrash the sensor in a short period of time and is against manufacturer install recommendations. It should be mounted 36in from the turbo before the cat. <--Per AEM (in the instruction manual) for accurate readings and sensor life. This is true for all widebands.
The LC-1 does have its own unique set of problems but also seems to be a better quality product. Main tricky thing is make sure you have a good ground connection for the sensor and the xd-16 gauge.
The LC-1 does have its own unique set of problems but also seems to be a better quality product. Main tricky thing is make sure you have a good ground connection for the sensor and the xd-16 gauge.
#12
Senior Member
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36" from turbo my ***...watch this video...and pay attention when he shows where the censor is welded in and why it needs to be at an angle....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivOtfoY8P2Y
you wanna it working right you do it the way i did...
the sensors need to be changed every xxxx miles any way...if you get one the car like i do...i would change it every 2000 miles or onces a year... if you drive around normally it can las you a very long time...
there shouldn't be much difference in brands you go with as they all use Bosch LSU4.2 sensor...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivOtfoY8P2Y
you wanna it working right you do it the way i did...
the sensors need to be changed every xxxx miles any way...if you get one the car like i do...i would change it every 2000 miles or onces a year... if you drive around normally it can las you a very long time...
there shouldn't be much difference in brands you go with as they all use Bosch LSU4.2 sensor...
#13
Trust me man, the Innovate is by far the wideband most prone to burning out sensors even though it uses an LSU sensor like most other systems. The heater on a wideband is duty controlled unlike the stock unheated 1 wire narrowband or your typical 4 wire narrowband on a newer car. The only explanation I can think of is that the Innovate units run the heater much harder.
Subarus have factory widebands (not LSU sensors) and many models have located before the turbo. They don't burn up.
Subarus have factory widebands (not LSU sensors) and many models have located before the turbo. They don't burn up.
#14
I ran the AEM in a few cars with good luck. I dont ride around with it in the car daily like some people, since its not needed. I used it to tune, it worked, and then it was removed. No issues at all.
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