DaGOATCorollaGTS

Hey guys, I have done some searching for the last two days and still havent found anything close to my issue.

I bought an engine built and tuned by PF Supercars. Took my power FC down to them to have it flashed with the tune that was done for that engine. Got the computer hooked up and started the car with new fuel and the idle immediatly jumped to 3300. The idle settings page shows all of the idle numbers to be set where the should be so I dont know where this high idle is comming from.

I do know that I have two vacuume lines open, however I have manually plugged them and only had a 50 rmp change or so in idle. This is a daily driver and I need it to be up and running ASAP so any help would be really appreciated.

Any clues as to what this issue is?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The first thing you should do is pressure test for a boost/vacuum leak, or at least do the old spraying carb cleaner trick. Are these stock twins?

DaGOATCorollaGTS

This is actually a single converted car.

I should add, my manifold glows noticable after two minutes of idle anf just a few blips of the throttle to 4500 and it gets to 4500 really quickly. Almost in an instant.

The exhaust ait is also quite hot and smells a bit rich.

Dont know what eqyipmennt to use for a vacuum test but I can tell you that the large vac line from tge LIM just behind the thurmostat was open. Its now plugged and I only get a 50 rpm drop. There are two likes in the oil filler neck...one of them is open.

Those are the only things not in place.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

So you dropped the car off at PFS and it idled fine, and when you picked it up it idled at 3300 rpm?

DaGOATCorollaGTS

Im sorry, the car has been in my garage for the entire swap. I bought the engine used as the car was being parted out and learned that PFS had built and tuned the engine. So I decided to take my PFC down to them to have it flashed with the tune for that engine. Ray remembered the previous customers name and had the tune still so it was quick and easy.

I was expecting a plug and play experience but when I fired the car up for the first time it went straight to 3300 rpm and hasnt dropped since. When I started the car though there were many vacuum leaks im sure but I didnt expect such a high idle.

I have only started this engine a total of 4 times and now all of my vacuum lines are hooked up or plugged up and I am still seeing the same idle.

The heat in the manifold is also worrying me. If I can upload it I will post a vid I took of the Commanders monitoring page while I was blipping the throttle to 4500.

Also thanks alot for the tuning group info. I will be hooking up on that this weekend.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

Here is the first vid

<object width="400" height="240" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/262840313728022" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/262840313728022" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="240"></embed></object>

And another showing the PFC settings alot better

<object width="400" height="240" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/262841343727919" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/262841343727919" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="240"></embed></object>

keep in mind this yeilded a deep orange manifold and really hot exhaust gasses which smelled a bit rich to me.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

What map sensor are you running? And what map sensor was the tune set up for?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Under etc. --> sensors , what are the TPS voltages? VTA1 and VTA2. I would check the throttle cable, cruise control cable, fast idle cam and all the various TB screws.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

This is what the voltages look like when the car is off. I have the rrans down right now because I pushed my throwout bearing right out of the clip. Yet something else to solve.



MAP is factory. I dont know what MAP sensor it was tuned on. Its VERY hard to get ahold of anyone at PFS by phone. They are a good 30 min away, over a mountain from me but if need be Ill be there this evening.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Looks like your throttle cable or cruise cable is holding the throttle open. Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise cable and see in the throttle plates close all the way. If not then the set screws are screwed in too far.

You also have a faulty intake air temp sensor, or it is not plugged in. This will not cause the issue, but it will effect overall running after you get the throttle plates closed.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

Goodfella - I do remember both the guy I bought the engine from and Ray at PFS saying that the engine is mostly stock. The only moded parts were 1600 secondaries and the single turbo system. Im going to presume the MAP is therfore stock.

arghx/Banzai - THANKS!

Very happy to report that it was as simple as the throttle cable. Leave it to an aspiring engineer to miss something so simple.

I lossened it and left just a little bit of play in the cable and the RPMs were alot more stable. It did not want to start initially and did stumble, so I had keep it alive with throttle for the first two minutes. After that it was able to maintain a steady 1100 rpm. By the way the idle air set screw was turned all the way in and pulled back one half turn. Thinking of trying one quarter turn or something in between and seeing how things go.

The videos of the stumbled start and eventual idle are HUGE compaired to my first two for some reason so I will have to get those up for you later but I did manage to get a few pictures of the TB and it looks like the lower, single butterfly was a little open. As well as a few issues with a set screw. Let me know what you think.

I dont know what this is attatched too, but im sure thats not good...


This was before adjusting the throttle cable but even afterward the set screw just barley comes close to touching that arm and look just to the right of that...


Hope to have those vids for you soon.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

In the first pic I believe you are showing the main fast idle screw. You should be able to adjust that to improve your cold idle--it holds open the big throttle plate until hot coolant pushes up on the thermowax rod.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

Makes scince I have to hold the throttle until temps start to rise.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

So I definitly need to replace that cold Idle screw to help keepcthe car started, it does nothing to keep the car running.

When warmed up it now searches and with a very wide range. Anything from 800 rpm or even 200, all the way to 1500.

And the icing on the cake...no boost. Whats that all about.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Holy cow, what's going on with your TPS sensor and wiring? I hope the rest of your engine wiring harness doesn't look like that. Scary.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

Most of the harness is pretty good, this is actually a replacement harnes I bought used many years ago. The car had a fire when I got it that I rebuilt it from so the plan os to build a decent one out of the pieces.

Any clues on what could cause such a radical search in Idle? I want to test drive it today bit I am gettint way too much smoke from the exhaust and it does smell pretty rich.

The air temp sensor will br swapped today for another UIM I have laying around. We'll see how that helps.

DaGOATCorollaGTS

Do you guys think ist worth wile to perform the Idle Learn after replacing the air temp sensor?