galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

hi everybody, i bought a street ported engine from allrotor93 and a power fc from RX7Store. i sended my mod on my car and they put a map for it. i'm positive everything is all right. but the thing is, i can't get it to idle properly. the best i could get was 1250 rpm with a lil bit of knock. i play with the ajustment screw, the tps and i never touch the AAS since i got the car, the previous engine was a stock engine.
my setup is 2 KNN filters ,stock turbos, stock intercooler, 3" HKS downpipe, 3" Bonez HFC, 2.5" mazdaspeed catback, koyo rad, stock injectors primary and secondary.

here some numbers i recorded when the fans turn on.

Inj duty= 6.7%
ign Ld= 21 degree
bat volt= 14V
engine rev= 1448rpm
vac= -436 mm/hg2
knock= lil bit
water temp= 90 degree

i just got the power FC. i read the instructions did my research on the forum using advance search and i found so tips tried everything but cannot bring it to 850....900 ish rpm. the last thing i want to do, its to do the idle learning process (power FC reset) and i dont understand why my idle is so high??? it stalls when i go lower

rx74evers

iTrader: (6)

Vaccum leak...

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i guess i'll have to check all my gaskets are new and oem with the torque specs. would it be intake leaks, exhaust leaks or vacuum hose leaks?

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Just because he gave you a map, doesn't mean it will work perfect on your car. Its just a map to get around until you actually tune the car. Also, It's not knocking at idle.

A street port usually idles at 1,000- 1,100 RPM.

thewird

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i already knew my car wasn't gonna run perfectly but 1250 seem a lil bit high and from what i read (on the forum) looks like 900 was the good number anyway. i'll try again to get it to run then i'll look for a tuner around Ottawa. thanks for the info

maybe its not call knocking at idle but i could clearly see it on the commander.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Don't worry about the "knocking" in vacuum. Most cars I've tuned pick up knock which is just engine/car noise. I actually have a RHD in my driveway which reads full knock on the highway with my foot off the gas (ie. no combustion is happening). Since its an RHD, the HEAT sensor flashes constantly due to the "high knock" but I know better.

Do you know what the RPM is set at? change it to 1,000 if its not already. Also, remember there is a screw under the throttle body which adjusts airflow and affects idle as well. Make sure the car is fully warmed up (80+ water temps) before adjusting anything.

If you can't find a tuner in Ottawa, shoot me a PM.

thewird

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Streetports do not need to idle at 1000-1100rpm, all the ported engines I tune are right around 800-850 rpm.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

If its a small port sure. Depending on local weather and altitude, you can also run lower idles. We live in igloo's up here so we need higher idles.

thewird

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

thanks thewird. i'll look into that.and if i have more prob with idle i'll send you a pm.i just want it to idle so i can bring it to a tuner ( in this case probably you) and it is a RHD car. lol.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

If that is what you want to tell yourself, then OK.

I don't port anything small, the only cars that leave my shop with an idle over a 1000 rpm are HBP & FBP, all the street ports and race ports are below 1000rpm. Even my race ported 20B idles at 850rpm.

Anyone with basic tuning skills knows how to compensate for temperature and altitude.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Maybe your ports are just that good. Everyone has their own way of doing things. I'll agree to disagree.

thewird

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Mainly depends if you have and can get the ISC to control idle with your mods.

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i still have the ISC on my car and never touch the allen key screw on it. i also erased the air pump and every other emission thing on it, like split air valve ect. and i have a JDM car and Harness

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You say you can't get the idle lower. How are you going about trying to do that?

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i didn't understand the question. and how i'm i gonna do that... by trying until i get it. ****'HER GET HER DONE... The Ironworkers way. lol


the lowest i could get was 1250 but if i **** around with the screw under the TB i might get it.

quick question: if i do the self learning process, is it gonna erase my base map on it?
i don't have a datalogit yet.
and i know the map will be safe if i don't boost until i find a tuner close to Ottawa

thewird

iTrader: (8)

It will reset to base map if you reset the PowerFC. I forget what the setting is called but its in the ETC menu and it gives you a YES/NO screen and only takes affect after you turn the car off and restart it.

thewird

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Let's start with the basics. Did you cut the 4 wires or remove the pins?

The PFC is not gong to do all the work for you, there are mechanical adjustments that need to be made also. The air bleed screw under teh TB elbow does need adjustment. Potentially your TPS needs to be adjusted.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

That's what I was wondering. Will the idle go down if you adjust the throttlebody? There is a primary throttle plate stop screw in front. There is a fast idle system that opens the throttle plate when the engine is cold. There is the air bleeds screw under the TB as Banzai was saying.

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i dont need to remove the pins. i have a JDM car plus JDM harness
i did my home works. i read at lease 2 times thoses thread and document.

http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FD3S.pdf
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/new-pfc-idle-sticking-problem-solving-strategy-isc-installed-853278/

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i have the air bleed screw, my car is a JDM so i dont have the cold starts thing, i remove the top plates in the UIM, and i did the block of plates of banzai on Double Throttle, ACV, ACV Tube, Split Air Pipe and the thermowax

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

You removed the thermowax? Did you remove the cam that it used to push down? If not then you will constantly be at high idle. To remove it you must the disassemble the TPS. Did you set the TPS correctly? What are your VTA1 & VTA2 readings?

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

i dont think i removed the cam. my VTA1 is 0.3v VTA2 is 0.89
thats when i put the key on the engine is not running.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Remove the rest of the thermowax system and reset your TPS.

Look next to the TPS, see that it is just a rod. The assembly that the thermowax used to push down is gone.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you can physically rotate the fast idle system with your finger just to see what happens. it's like removing it temporarily.

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

ok thanks a lot. i'm going to the shop tommorow morning get that fix up. i see you dont use the Idle control, should i do thats as well, because when i try to start the car, doesnt start anymore cuz i try the o2 sensor fuction off, and i put it back to on and still doesnt start, it cranck for a sec then when you stop turning the key there is a fuel cut, i think, cuz you can hear the rotors tuning (whoosh, whoosh) and engine dies, but after that you can hear the idle control buzzing, and im sure its that buzzing because i unplug it when it happen, to be sure , and the sound stop and restart when i pug it back.
anyway i'll remove the cam in the thermowax saturday morning. thanks again for that info on the thermowax