I'll grant you that it looks substantially different. My cradle will fit any LSx oil pan including the LS7 dry sump pan, and also uses the GTO/Corvette aluminum pedestal mounts. It doesn't require cutting the firewall, or the hood.

Possibly. Some people have cars in such bad shape that removing the dash and cutting the firewall won't be an issue for them.

Why, will the motor weigh less? I'd rather hear what the cradle weighs. As far as I know, mine is the lightest.

Thanks for the info, but I'm the one who found the Steeda shift arm in the first place and determined it would work.

How so? It's a replacement for the factory shifter in Mustangs. It can't be that different.

 

Pardon my ignorance, Jim or Raceshop, what are the disadvantages to cutting the firewall? Why would people be so hesistant to do that? Thanks

 

i don't know about you Txturbogs but i'm not keen on the idea of cutting my car up...thats not so easily reversable either.

 

Do you normally cut on your cars?

Would you want to have to remove the dash and all the HVAC systems in order to cut out a piece of the firewall and weld in a patch panel just to avoid cutting out a small section of the transmission tunnel that no one else has had any problem with or to avoid moving the steering rack a little, again, something that no one has had any problem with?

It's excessive. Only someone building a track-only car or with a salvage title or high mileage roller that was going to be painted anyway might not care, but most people with cars in decent shape don't hack on them, especially something as invasive as the firewall. Frankly, most people don't have the fabrication or welding skill or the equipment. That's why bolt-in modifications are so popular.

 

LOL, I understand now. Thanks

 

It seems you a real problem with cutting the firewall, so I will be offering a option of not cutting the firewall. The motor will be in the same place as the other kits, but I'm not wasting my time developing the rest of the parts. It will be the cradle only.

You seem to want my kit to look like a hack and tell people they need to remove their dash and A/C, which is false. The only thing thats hack is what is currently on the market. As far as cutting the firewall the A/C vents are 6.500 inchs back from the leading edge of the pinch weld. The panel is only 3.00 inchs deep so there is plenty of room to install it with making a mess of it. I know my kit is not for you but it's another option.

I saw your post on the other forum and you have no idea what happened with my roll bar group buy. I lost 1 order from that whole mess and it was your friend.

I have alot more info. regarding my kit. I spent months developing a ram air system, a sway bar setup that uses speedway links and some other things that works only with my kit.

 

To his defense....this would be a GREAT K-member for someone wanting to do a custom turbo kit..leaves more room up front for the stuff..STILL NEED AN IDEA ON PRICE to see if Id even consider it though...If its close to the hinson price its mine..if not it would be a lil out of my league esp since Id have to do more work. Its beautiful though.

 

No Larry, a lot of people have a problem with cutting on their cars.

Don't bother, I've got it covered.

Oh really? So you'd cut and weld blindly with wiring harnesses and expensive HVAC equipment on the other side of the firewall?

If you're referring to Grant and Brian, I will agree with you there.

No one said it wasn't.

As I knew you would.

You were lucky. I saw you unresponsive to your customers for about two months.

There's no arguing that you do nice work, but I'll bet you can't duplicate that spider web for anywhere near a competitive price.

 

All you have to do is mount the radiator at the stock angle instead of vertically. Look up Hardbodeez' build thread.

 

Here are a few shots of the torque arm, driveshaft and tranny mount. One of the reasons I didn't want to cut the trans tunnel cause it's part of the tranny mount. I'm not sure if the pictures are clear enough, but inside the car the studs for the shifter bootare used for locating the bracket then you drill through the the floor and from under the car bolt the trans mount. This way it won't tear out and gives you the most room for exhaust.

See the next post for more pics.

 

White circles are for 3" exhuast

 

I'm very intrigued by all of this... Especially since I am now seriously considering abandoning my 20b in favor of an Lsx powerplant.

I coudn't care less about cutting the fire wall if I feel it has other desireable characteristics. Pulling the dash is no biggie, and has to be done anyway to properly install new carpet.

Has anyone looked into the support that the a cradle adds to the front of the chassis. IIRC, there isn't much metal up front providing horizontal stiffness between the two frame members and the stock subframe is pretty beefy.

I hadn't looked at mine recently nor have I seen mention of any potentially adverse effects of not having stiffness in this area. I am not suggesting this cradle has a lack of stiffness, it's just a question that came to mind last night while doing some reading/research.

-Chris

 

I went ahead and changed the cradle so it will come standard with 2 engine positions and 2 positions for the steering rack. I will post a new picture of what the cradle will look like tomorrow. This means you DON'T have to cut the firewall to use my kit.

My design is much stronger than the other cradles that are made from only three peices of tubing. Even the stock unit is stronger than what is currently avaliable. (IMO)

This is not a contest. I wanted to build a top quality kit because I feel there really wasn't one avaliable.

As far as the dash, I will post some picture later to show how it's done. If you don't want to weld there are aircraft structural epoxy system that may work.

Larry

 

Damn it, this should have been out three years ago! Nice kit, I like it except for the tranny mount and the TA. The tranny mount doesn't appear to be very strong if it has to support the diff loads, especially the bottomside steel strip that has been bent about 135 degrees. I much prefer a rigid diff mount that ties back to the chassis and takes loads off the tranny mount.

For the record, cutting the firewall with a provided template and assurance that nothing is behind the cut line should not be an issue for many swappers. I have had to hack a ton on my car to install the Hinson kit, mainly because of alot of re-engineering of small stuff like the FAST mani.

 

[QUOTE=twokrx7;7353947]Damn it, this should have been out three years ago! Nice kit, I like it except for the tranny mount and the TA. The tranny mount doesn't appear to be very strong if it has to support the diff loads, especially the bottomside steel strip that has been bent about 135 degrees. I much prefer a rigid diff mount that ties back to the chassis and takes loads off the tranny mount.

The tranny mount is made from 1/4 steel and has a 1/4 inch gusset on the underside, (here's a pic.) It wasn't finished, that picture was to show for exhaust clearance. The problem is there isn't much to tie into. I guess you could run a tube from one side of the car to the other... but then you can't fit much for exhaust.

I don't know what to say about the T/A ???

 

I am not sure why Jimlab is posting in this , Raceshop's thread about his own cradle, while at the same time taking shots at Larry's? Further his comments that this kit is not able to be replicated seems wide of the mark. As far as I know Larry made over 80 roll bars in the group buy he did? That sounds like a lot of replication to me? Perhaps Larry can scale his pristine, show quality 93 CYM when he gets time and let us know what the differences are between the two locations he is now offering. 3 inches sounds like a lot to me in a car with a 95.5 inch wheelbase. That sounds like a 3.14% difference in weight distribution front to back? It seems the majority of RX-7 faithful all cry that lumping this LS1/2/3/6/7 in the car will screw up the handling and balance. It looks like Larry is trying to address that with a better thought out package, that keeps the tranny shifter were it ought to be, and moves the engine back to help with cooling up front and the chassis balance. Keep up the good work Larry and let us know when you have finalized the pieces and have pricing.

 

Your reading comprehension seems to be wide of the mark.

 

If you use the F Body shifter it will need to be cut down 3". The photo shows the removed piece on the right. I inculde the machined sleeve with the kit, but you will need to have it welded or you can send your shifter to me and I'll weld for no charge. (if you buy the setback kit)

The other picture shows the modification for A arms. The slot are wider to give more camber adjustment. The kit comes with new bolts.

I have changed the jig so the main rails are wider apart, so it should clear the LS7 pan. This thread was for feedback and thats the reason for no pricing, I'm still developing....

Larry

 

Nice. Jim, is your cradle design for sale as well ?

Neil

 

It will be shortly.

 

And those brake lines go where?

 

Any idea on price?

 

I'm just curious if this kit requires custom brake lines, as the pictures imply.

 

Sent a PM

 

Here is a few pictures of the updated cradle. This version will work for just about everyone. You don't have to cut the firewall !! The cradle has 2 engine mounting positions and 2 positions for the steering rack. I machined a pair of alum. blocks that are removable for the rack adjustment. I can't confirm but my cradle should work with the LS7 oil pan. ( I'm working on getting one for a test fit) The skid plate work with the engine in either position.

1. If you use the front positions it should work with parts from other suppliers. The picture of the throttle body show where it line up with the bottom of the hood.

2. Using the rear mounting position you use the alum. blocks (steering) and the laser cut panel for the firewall that I talked about before.