I'm going to be offering my LS1 mounting kit in the next week or so. Thought I would share a few pics. of the cradle.

Larry

 

Hi Larry-- welcome back to RX-7land

 

Beautifully done Larry.

 

Any idea on pricing yet?

 

Nice work. LS1 pans only?

 

Looks beautiful Larry! I am sure it will be the best solution on the market for guys looking to do an LS1/2/6 etc swap with the best possible quality! Welcome back....

 

Im currently looking for a new engine cradle...Def. want more info on it. It looks great. Price/availability?

 

Thanks everyone !

Jim, for now I'm going to offer it for the LS1. I didn't think there would be enough demand for the LS7, plus it would require a bump steer correction. Not a big deal but I'm working with the parts I have on hand.

I moved the motor back about 3 inchs so the shifter is in the stock location and the rack is only a 1/4" lower than the stock location. I'm still need to check the bump steer, to see if it's going to need a correction or not. My kit will require cutting the firewall. But it allows you to use the stock hood without modification.

Here a little more info,

I will be offering a kit which will include;

Chromoly Engine Cradle, Powder coated black
Trans. Mount, powder coated black
Skid plate
Chromoly Torque Arm, powder coated black
Driveshaft
Laser cut panel and template for the firewall modification
Heat shield for the motor mounts

Extras will be the enginge covers with the RX7 logo also there will be a cover for the throttle body. I will post some better pictures tomorrow.

 

Hey that just give us more room for a turbo in the front of the engine bay.

 

I hear you. Just FYI, the LS2 and LS3 pans also differ from the LS1 pan.

I think that might dampen some people's enthusiasm a little.

 

is that little notch (for the intake manny) all you had to cut on the firewall, or am i missing something else?

 

I would like to know the same thing..also, do you have any idea on a price? This thing looks amazing..might give the car a better CG as well. Does anything on the firewall have to be welded?

 

Only for FD's or you have something for FC's as well?

Comments related to oil pans - I had to go with a F-body oil pan on my LS2 to get it to fit vs. the 'vette pan that was on it. So my point is that I don't think you guys should care about the stock oil pan since the F-body one works - at least for FC's. Don't know about the FD situation.

 

yup..

 

You're missing something else. Also, note the red arrow...

USC 18, Sec. 511 - Altering or removing motor vehicle identification numbers (VIN)

(a) A person who -
(1) knowingly removes, obliterates, tampers with, or alters an identification number for a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part; or
(2) with intent to further the theft of a motor vehicle, knowingly removes, obliterates, tampers with, or alters a decal or device
affixed to a motor vehicle pursuant to the Motor Vehicle Theft Prevention Act, shall be fined under this title, imprisoned not more
than 5 years, or both.

 

Oil control in the LS1 pan sucks. For people who plan to track their cars, they'll have to either weld in baffling or go with an LS2, LS3, or LS7 pan.

 

I guess I should have said F body pan. I haven't ruled out the LS7 setup, I just think that most people are using the LS1,2,6.

As far as the vin number it's there, the notch (yes it's for the manifold) is close but doesn't remove the vin number. The blasted one is from a donor car.

Your right about most people won't be interested in cutting the firewall but I feel it fixes the issues with the other kits.

Using my kit..
1. you don't have to cut the hood
2. you don't have to cut th tranny tunnel
3. no bump steer correction

 

What's the dimensional difference between LS1 and LS3 pans?

I can't use the LS2 'vette pan - it simply won't fit with the current Granny mount configuration. Is there a difference between GTO oil pans and the 'vette for the LS2?

LS7 dry sump is a last resort at this time, would rather explore other options first.

 

The firewall panel will have a flange so you can bolt it in but welding it in is the right way to do it.

I'm working on the price. I might do another group buy but not sure yet.


Larry

 

[QUOTE=Turbo 3;7334602]Only for FD's or you have something for FC's as well?





Sorry I don't offer anything for the FC

 

Which is an LS1 pan.

The reason people are only using wet sump pans so far is because no one (until now) had a cradle that would clear the LS7 pan. However, you're right that most people are using F-body LS1s and GTO LS2s.

If you moved the rack, even 1/4", you'll have to correct for bump steer. Not as much as other kits, but correcting for bump steer is no big deal. The other features you mentioned are more important to most people (not cutting the hood, for example).

BTW, GTO extended shifters eliminate the need to cut the transmission tunnel.

 

I haven't seen any LS3 pan measurements yet. The LS2 pan is deeper at the front than the LS1 F-body pan.

 

Larry your kit looks very good. When can I pick one up?

Thanks

Mike

 

Thanks for the info. I may have a end link that will correct the 1/4" drop. I just didn't want a big stack of spacers and a heim joint.

I built a kit that was designed for the LS1 pullout out of the F body. I guess it's not a big deal to get a GTO shifter and switch over to a dry sump. I mounted the way that I think it should be done, even if that meant moving the motor back. It would be very easy for me to move the motor mount forward and up but I want to see first how people would take to cutting the firewall. Time will tell..

 

Awesome kit! I am assuming it will be to the same caliber of the roll bar I bought. I think it is great you are offering a kit very different from other people... Yea you might have to modify the firewall but there is a market out there for this. You need to put a motor in the car and do a weight comparison, this will seal the deal for some people.

Jim- Everyone is using the Mustang shift arm and not the GTO to bring it back to a near stock location. This still isn't the best solution for this, the shifter is still much different than any stock car. It takes a little getting use to.