hey all

just wondering if anyone has done a 1 or 2 JZ engine swap on there FD , and if so any problems or hidden little tricks to it?? please explain.

im in the process of buying another FD but am really considering swapping the rotary out for a piston

thanks for the feed back and take care

 

https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/anyone-considering-2jz-1jz-swap-please-read-917008/
https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/my-2jz-rx7-912137/

May be of use to you.

 

thanks so much man! awesome thread to go on

 

I'm doing a 2J with the steering rack in the stock position.

If I could do it again, I'd move the engine back into the firewall probably.

 

2jz all the way... This should be one hell of a car when you get done with it. You against the ls swap? The only thing with those is there are just too many people already doing them.

 

So I'm assuming you're going to run the Scoot Hood or something similar, to account for the clearance issues you're going to encounter.

 

single rotor conversion is the new hyphy...

 

would it be that much of a difference moving the engine all the way back to the fire wall?? and did u guys have to relocate engine mounts or anything? and yes i do like the LS1 swap but everyone seems to be doing that one these days , plus i love the 2JZ

 

Ya that is what I figured. 2jz is just different and you can make a whole lot of power. Interesting build though man.

 

With the height of the 2JZ, with .25" clearance to the rack unmoved is too tall for the stock hood AS WELL as after market hoods. (Minus the Tech2 sperm whale hood.)

The only way to get the Scoot hood to fit is to remove the vents.
I'll be making my own hood.

Moving the engine further back into the firewall allows for clearance at the crank pulley / oil pan to bring the height of the engine down w/o interfering with the rack in the stock location.

My experience with others and their bumpsteer correction kits were unsuccessful.

 

yaa as far back as possible. as long as the tie rods are parallel with the control arms/ground you wont have bump steer. all the correction kits do is lower the tie rod mounting point to the steering knuckle

and yea **** the tech 2 hood...ruins the body lines.

 

I lowered the rack in mine and in turn had to make spacers for where the tie rod ends go to the spindles..problem solved just as mopar97 said..

 

I initially moved the rack 2" lower, but then couldn't even fit my fist between the ground and it.
I got worried and then went to a tech2 subframe.

Stock suspension, wheels, and size tires.

 

Really, it's just the valve cover that created clearance issues in my case, even with the steering rack lowered by 2" on my 2J setup.

I COULD fit a stock hood at this point, but instead my metal fabricator just modified my hood. See pics below:


BEFORE



AFTER:





He did a good job, I think.

I'd still like to go with a Scoot Hood though eventually, though.

 

That's basically how my hood is going to look.
I'm going to cut out a window, measure, and fill just like that.

 

gotcha!!

that fabricated hood looks really good! still has the stock looking effect to it just a lil bump to it but it goes with the car. how much did it run you to get done if you don't mind me asking?

and i def see now how much difference pushing the engine back to the fire wall!! and it seems everyone has there own different experiences with re-alining there ti rod/control arms?

 

20b.

 

The destruction of a rare sports car. It hurts..

 

In fairness, I prefer to see a Supra motor in the bay instead of a Camaro motor. At least it's Japanese and sounds damn good

 

Not your jizz, not your bizz.

 

from what i can find:
2jz weight = 594lbs
1jz weight = 478lbs

for comparison
LS1 weight = approx 430lbs


this is without the trans, so assuming you would use the same trans for either setup, the 1jz saves you over 100lbs off the front end, which is huge!

this is definitely something to take into account, since the 1j/2j center of weight will be much further forward in the car than the LSx or 13b, throwing off the balance.

personally i would go 1jz to minimize this affect. it also happens to be less expensive, and has better clearance. benefits of the 2jz would be more displacement, and more aftermarket parts, especially used stuff.

 

true say! and the 1JZ is roughly the same power as the 2JZ, that is a huge difference tho in weight between the two

 

Don't do it! you will ruin the handling! not to mention removing the rotary is like removing the soul. It won't be an rx7 anymore. If it was supposed to have pistons it would be a px7. That being said.....I vote 2J

 

You kidding?

 

lolol

PX7 it is then !!!!