1jz rx7 swap?
#76
#77
Even with the Tech2 kit, you still have too cut the skeleton. A good friend of mine is pretty savy with body work, he did all the cutting and molded a new turbo II style scoop on to it, but i have a new frp hood that I'm putting on it soon as I return to Hawaii, its raised in the center with a few turbo vents. Sean the owner of tech 2 gave me a lil hook up on the hood.
#78
As far as the shifter location, here is what will work as far as I know:
w58 with OEM extended shifter like in s300 and NA supra
r154 with tech2 or other aftermarket shifter extension
r154 with OEM long shifter - can be found on some 1jz swaps, but seems to always come with front sump oil pans (cannot be used for rx7 swaps)
I would recommend trying to find a 1jz swap with the factory extended shifter and then swap the oil pans for a rear sump. That way you end up with all factory parts. The tech 2 extension is a very nice part, but all OEM would be the best.
Also, tech2 shifter extension is about $300 I believe, while a rear sump oil pan usually sells for a little less, $200-250.
You may be able to convince the engine importer you go with to send you a rear sump engine and an extended shifter transmission. They would probably have to swap some parts around, but it would be worth it no doubt.
#80
Even with the Tech2 kit, you still have too cut the skeleton. A good friend of mine is pretty savy with body work, he did all the cutting and molded a new turbo II style scoop on to it, but i have a new frp hood that I'm putting on it soon as I return to Hawaii, its raised in the center with a few turbo vents. Sean the owner of tech 2 gave me a lil hook up on the hood.
i wanna see some pics of this hood once your back. I need something without a big hole in it, or i just need to head down to the local weld shop to have an aluminum piece welded to cover it.
#81
#82
Im all for this swap but there is no way i am paying $1500 for motor mounts, driveshaft and a shifter extension
TEch2 only prices it out that high because no one else has it
mounts realistically should be at the very very most should be $450 Hell CNC machined honda motor mounts go for $300
the shaft and shifter i can get done locally for less
TEch2 only prices it out that high because no one else has it
mounts realistically should be at the very very most should be $450 Hell CNC machined honda motor mounts go for $300
the shaft and shifter i can get done locally for less
#83
#86
Im waiting too I've contacted a seller in thailand called KS racing and they make 1jz swap mounts it'll be available in about a month or so and be around $200
what did you do about the heater core sketch? it looks like the cyl head will hit it if you go to far back
fstbckgt can you take a few pics?
what did you do about the heater core sketch? it looks like the cyl head will hit it if you go to far back
fstbckgt can you take a few pics?
#88
#90
#93
#96
You would need pretty custom hood or maybe a dry sump, but it can be done.
As far as the shifter location, here is what will work as far as I know:
w58 with OEM extended shifter like in s300 and NA supra
r154 with tech2 or other aftermarket shifter extension
r154 with OEM long shifter - can be found on some 1jz swaps, but seems to always come with front sump oil pans (cannot be used for rx7 swaps)
I would recommend trying to find a 1jz swap with the factory extended shifter and then swap the oil pans for a rear sump. That way you end up with all factory parts. The tech 2 extension is a very nice part, but all OEM would be the best.
Also, tech2 shifter extension is about $300 I believe, while a rear sump oil pan usually sells for a little less, $200-250.
As far as the shifter location, here is what will work as far as I know:
w58 with OEM extended shifter like in s300 and NA supra
r154 with tech2 or other aftermarket shifter extension
r154 with OEM long shifter - can be found on some 1jz swaps, but seems to always come with front sump oil pans (cannot be used for rx7 swaps)
I would recommend trying to find a 1jz swap with the factory extended shifter and then swap the oil pans for a rear sump. That way you end up with all factory parts. The tech 2 extension is a very nice part, but all OEM would be the best.
Also, tech2 shifter extension is about $300 I believe, while a rear sump oil pan usually sells for a little less, $200-250.
This is what I ended up doing.
My 1j came from a jzx90 Chaser and had the long extension, but front sump. I was
able to find a rear sump pan locally for $100 and I sold my front sump for $150 to an s chassis guy
Something that should be noted is the oil drain tubes on the turbos are different from front to rear sump. This includes the cast aluminum bosses that bolt onto the pan as well. I was able to make mine work with some creativity, buy it would have been alot nicer to just swap the drains.
One issue that has me a bit stumped so far is how I'm going to do my heater core connections cleanly. With the way that I made my mounts the back of the valve covers are within 1" of the firewall and this makes it super tight to use the factory bends.
What is everybody else doing?
#97
Ya I found a tiny performance shop in flagstaff that was able to hook it up, redlionmotorsports.com, real great guys if anyone else in northern arizona needs work, if there are any other 7's up there.
I just dropped off the car at Long Beach harbor today. should have it in honolulu in 1.5-2 weeks. once its off the boat its getting a full detail, and i had the privilege of seeing a new Lotus Evora heading for honolulu as well...camry v6 ftw
One issue that has me a bit stumped so far is how I'm going to do my heater core connections cleanly. With the way that I made my mounts the back of the valve covers are within 1" of the firewall and this makes it super tight to use the factory bends.
What is everybody else doing?
hopefully sketch will chime in on this. I just know that if I lose one of my heater core lines the motors comin out to replace it...
I just dropped off the car at Long Beach harbor today. should have it in honolulu in 1.5-2 weeks. once its off the boat its getting a full detail, and i had the privilege of seeing a new Lotus Evora heading for honolulu as well...camry v6 ftw
One issue that has me a bit stumped so far is how I'm going to do my heater core connections cleanly. With the way that I made my mounts the back of the valve covers are within 1" of the firewall and this makes it super tight to use the factory bends.
What is everybody else doing?
Last edited by fstbckgt; 05-17-10 at 09:21 PM.
#98
Hey guys,
I used some nice 90 degree bends for the heater core lines, but the real secret was cutting off some of the heater core tube that goes through the firewall, so that it made the turn right away rather than sticking out at all first.
If I was to do it again, I would run the lines through the firewall at a different spot, like some other people have done.
Fskbckgt, if the lines ever do go, just pull the dash and re route the lines.... easier and more effective than pulling the motor
Not sure if you even need the heater in Honolulu though, luck sob!
I used some nice 90 degree bends for the heater core lines, but the real secret was cutting off some of the heater core tube that goes through the firewall, so that it made the turn right away rather than sticking out at all first.
If I was to do it again, I would run the lines through the firewall at a different spot, like some other people have done.
Fskbckgt, if the lines ever do go, just pull the dash and re route the lines.... easier and more effective than pulling the motor
Not sure if you even need the heater in Honolulu though, luck sob!
#99
Hey guys i know its been awhile, Marine Corps they seem to send all over "God's Creation" This is gonna sound crazy, so i ran into some minor problems which forced me to sell my swap kit, needed some emergency money. so the swap came to a complete stand still. So now i said Fu&% the kit and do it myself, right now the motor is in the car but i have to weld up the pedestals for the mounts. Hey fastbackgt are u back on island? if so maybe u could gimme some pointers