Video Log Of The Restomodding Of My '76 RX-5 Cosmo (New Vid New Vid Jul 10/2024)
#351
Engine, Not Motor
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Since I'm POR-15'ing the entire front end and the floor (not sure if I've mentiond that?) I'm not worried about a little surface rust. But I'll certainly be hitting the front end with a wire wheel or stripping wheel prior to paint because it's going to be a few months before it's time to paint anyway, and stuff is going to collect. Whether I will re-blast the floor sort of depends on how much punishment I want to put myself under.
#352
Luis Rx3 Project
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Aaron, today i called a guy to see how much he will charge me to blast same exact area you blasted, and see how much he will charge me that i can determine if is cheaper to buy me a blaster since I have to use it over and over again, but the time ill be saving is what im looking at. He coming in a week to check it out, will see
#353
Turbo vert
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Aaron, today i called a guy to see how much he will charge me to blast same exact area you blasted, and see how much he will charge me that i can determine if is cheaper to buy me a blaster since I have to use it over and over again, but the time ill be saving is what im looking at. He coming in a week to check it out, will see
#354
The air compressor is definitely key when doing blasting or any sort of paint work. That's one of the main reasons I bought a huge 60 gallon compressor that is way better than average.
It's very cool to see the work progressing. Any sort of a timetable for completion, Aaron?
It's very cool to see the work progressing. Any sort of a timetable for completion, Aaron?
#358
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With a pressure blaster it depends on the nozzle you use. A 1/8" nozzle is what I typically use, which is considered very small. But I'm usually only blasting individual small parts anyway. Up the nozzle size to one bigger and air consumption goes from about 10 CFM to around 14 CFM. Siphon blasters are weak, best used for a small blast cabinet and not a chassis/front end.
In blasting the front end, I used a 1/8" nozzle which had worn to just over 4MM by the time I was done.
#361
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The only problem is that now you'll have to strip off the primer completely before you apply the POR-15. With POR-15 it's best to just strip down the metal and let the surface rust form. As long as the rust isn't heavy it can be taken off quickly with a wire wheel, then when the MetalReady is applied the remaining rust will dissolve or simply stop. POR-15 needs to be applied to bare metal. A weathered or blasted surface is best.
#362
Luis Rx3 Project
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thanks
The only problem is that now you'll have to strip off the primer completely before you apply the POR-15. With POR-15 it's best to just strip down the metal and let the surface rust form. As long as the rust isn't heavy it can be taken off quickly with a wire wheel, then when the MetalReady is applied the remaining rust will dissolve or simply stop. POR-15 needs to be applied to bare metal. A weathered or blasted surface is best.
Aaron I just dropped this piece of to get it replicated since my skills are not like yours and i dont want to get stuck here I want my project to move fairly quickly since I been having my car for 3 years and finally doing some work to it,
If ok to ask I was going to replace this area with 16 gauge sheet metal Is my first weld project since I finish welding school and I only took a short welding basic class, I seen your videos and very helpfull ive learned alot.
steps im going to take.
im going to trace it to paper then cardboard then cut then compare to cardboard then make sure it fits but by the looks of it I may need to do in 4 pieces what would you do, thanks sorry to ask but guys in my town are what I call HATERS,, I dropped that inner fender piece to a classic resturation shop and they were cheaper than guys I was been recommended to, wow really, thanks Aaron,
#363
Turbo vert
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Well i was going to say try and find a car to cut the section out of...but it seems its a rx3. My personal opinion is you have alot of work to do haha(as you know). I see the upper part of the rail is rusted out also. I think i need to step back and really think... and now im going to try and put my thoughts together.
#364
Turbo vert
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Id make 2 diff pieces. I would do piece first. I would make the lower wheel well (the curved portion)) so it has a nice pinch weld on it to weld the new panel to. It looks like theres enough material there to bend it flat and make a decent pinch weld basically like whats right blew it directly behind the wheel. Then i would drill out all the pinch welds(Yellow markings, im sure i left a few out). Duplicate panel 1 first and seam it in (blue lines) and weld it the the outer edge on the insde of the fire wall. Basically the same thing with panel 2. drill all the pinch welds, fit it, tac it in a few spots and over lap it to panel one on the edge of the fire wall and weld it there. Weld all the seams up. sandblast, ect... then caulk it all up really nice. You must make sure the fender bolt holes on panel 1 are in the same spot. This is roughly probably what i would do.
#365
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It looks like the entire inner fender panel must be replaed, from the far right rust hole, all the way into the cabin of the car. The structure looks very similar to the Cosmo, though the Cosmo has a reinforcing panel spot welded onto the inner fender where the shock tower is located. This is the area I'm working on right now.
#366
Turbo vert
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It looks like the entire inner fender panel must be replaed, from the far right rust hole, all the way into the cabin of the car. The structure looks very similar to the Cosmo, though the Cosmo has a reinforcing panel spot welded onto the inner fender where the shock tower is located. This is the area I'm working on right now.
#367
Luis Rx3 Project
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thanks
Id make 2 diff pieces. I would do piece first. I would make the lower wheel well (the curved portion)) so it has a nice pinch weld on it to weld the new panel to. It looks like theres enough material there to bend it flat and make a decent pinch weld basically like whats right blew it directly behind the wheel. Then i would drill out all the pinch welds(Yellow markings, im sure i left a few out). Duplicate panel 1 first and seam it in (blue lines) and weld it the the outer edge on the insde of the fire wall. Basically the same thing with panel 2. drill all the pinch welds, fit it, tac it in a few spots and over lap it to panel one on the edge of the fire wall and weld it there. Weld all the seams up. sandblast, ect... then caulk it all up really nice. You must make sure the fender bolt holes on panel 1 are in the same spot. This is roughly probably what i would do.
#368
Luis Rx3 Project
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Aaron
It looks like the entire inner fender panel must be replaed, from the far right rust hole, all the way into the cabin of the car. The structure looks very similar to the Cosmo, though the Cosmo has a reinforcing panel spot welded onto the inner fender where the shock tower is located. This is the area I'm working on right now.
#369
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It may be a little while for the next video becuase I intend the next video to finish up the front structural sheet metal, so that I can move on to fun things in the video after.