Video Log Of The Restomodding Of My '76 RX-5 Cosmo (New Vid New Vid Jul 10/2024)
#326
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
I'm going to stick with my POR-15 for now, as I've been using their products for over 10 years with success. I just wish that POR-15 came in a spray can because it is a real pain to do small areas. And if the POR-15 company made a weld primer, I'm sure it would be better than that Norton crap I've had to put up with.
I may be wrong on the RX8 Denso fuel injector connector type. It could be Sumitomo female. I'm also thinking of the Bosch EV14; fiveomotorsport.com has them in varying capacities and are cheaper than the IDs. Basically, anything swappable into the Miata (as far as can tell) should physically fit in an RX7's stock fuel rails.
#327
Luis Rx3 Project
iTrader: (3)
They do have quart size .. is a lot cheaper and I been in a budget . Guy said I need cleaner then a prep for por15 I only have to clean area and spray product with reducer ofcourse . And it will turn a different color witch I'm not to worried about since I'm going black only ..I'm going to try and let you know. Thanks
#328
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
The prep for POR-15 really isn't different than any other paint, except for one additional step. Clean/degrease the surface and remove all rust, then etch with MetalReady, then paint with POR-15 after the surface is bone dry. Any old cleaner/degreaser does the job, you don't need their Marine Clean. I generally use Castrol Super Clean. A wire wheel removes loose rust. Then when totally dry, etch with MetalReady for 15-20 minutes and rinse clean with water. Dry totally, blow off any white dust, then paint.
MetalReady is really only needed on a rusty surface or a brand new surface (like welds). If you have blasted the part, POR-15 can be applied directly to a clean blasted surface once any blasting residue is removed (brake cleaner and air). POR-15 can be brushed into tight areas, handy for the insides of frame rails and such, or sprayed. I just dump it directly into the spray gun and then turn all the controls all the way out.
It will be interesting to hear some long term tests with Chassis Saver. Personally I'm comfortable with POR-15 and know it works. Started using it when I was about 12 and repairing lawnmowers. I'd paint the underside of the decks with it to prevent rust and make clean up very easy. Nothing sticks to the slick surface. My lawnmower was painted at that time too and 20 years later, is still mint underneath. Until I was 19 I cut lawns as a side job, so it got a lot of use.
MetalReady is really only needed on a rusty surface or a brand new surface (like welds). If you have blasted the part, POR-15 can be applied directly to a clean blasted surface once any blasting residue is removed (brake cleaner and air). POR-15 can be brushed into tight areas, handy for the insides of frame rails and such, or sprayed. I just dump it directly into the spray gun and then turn all the controls all the way out.
It will be interesting to hear some long term tests with Chassis Saver. Personally I'm comfortable with POR-15 and know it works. Started using it when I was about 12 and repairing lawnmowers. I'd paint the underside of the decks with it to prevent rust and make clean up very easy. Nothing sticks to the slick surface. My lawnmower was painted at that time too and 20 years later, is still mint underneath. Until I was 19 I cut lawns as a side job, so it got a lot of use.
#333
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
Part 19 is being edited as fast as I am producing footage to fill it. When i finish the current sheet metal repair (maybe even this weekend?) I'll wrap it up and get it posted.
#334
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
Part 19: Front Inner Fender Removal, POR-15, Rear Sill Repair
Part 19 of my '76 RX-5 Cosmo restoration continues with sheet metal repairs, but hopefully in a less boring format. First off I totally remove the rotted out front inner fenders by drilling out about a billion spot welds. Then we move onto the very complicated rear inner sill repair. This brings the introduction of POR-15, the first time I have used it on this project and by far, not the last. Included are many tips on working with this product. I promised less sheet metal, but wanted to show the rear inner sill repair because it was by far the most complicated sheet metal repair I have yet done on this car, and likely will remain as such. Included in this episode: drilling out spot welds, air hammering off panels, using MetalReady to prep for POR-15, applying POR-15, POR-15 usage tips, cutting out floor to access rear inner sill, fabricating a new rear inner sill panel, welding it all back into place, nudity of me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_ri6poq_BM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_ri6poq_BM
#335
Rotary Enthusiast
Very interesting and informative episode, and the sheetmetal work was a lot less boring than in previous eps. Some handy tips for POR15--added a few to my notes.
You're going to sandblast the entire unibody one section at a time, repair, and etch prime or only as needed?
You're going to sandblast the entire unibody one section at a time, repair, and etch prime or only as needed?
#338
Luis Rx3 Project
iTrader: (3)
Nive vid I was going to use the chasse saver but I see you have used por-15 for awhile now and even in your body so you have me convince thats the way to go lol. I was supposed to have my car home by now but work related problem delayed me from bringing car home, Cant wait to see the Inner fender repait area since thats where I want to start my car, From front to back Thanks for the Vid
#340
~!@#$%^&*()_+
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#341
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
I'll see what I can do.
Nive vid I was going to use the chasse saver but I see you have used por-15 for awhile now and even in your body so you have me convince thats the way to go lol. I was supposed to have my car home by now but work related problem delayed me from bringing car home, Cant wait to see the Inner fender repait area since thats where I want to start my car, From front to back Thanks for the Vid
I've actually seen that before. Molasses is a good method to remove rust, but time consuming, space consuming, and pretty gross. I don't know how I ever lived without my sand blaster and blast cabinet. 20 seconds of blasting and the nastiest, rustiest bracket is now virgin metal ready to be painted.
#344
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
Yep. I made a mistake on the title screen template. But there's no way to fix it now without deleting the video and uploading it again.
#345
Turbo vert
iTrader: (33)
Seeing you fix the inner rocker area makes me grin. I think, gosh it sucks. Some people (if not most) would say its pointless b/c you would never see it eecctt. They dont understand it is part of doing it the correct way wether people see it or not. I absolutly HATE when people stand 5ft away from a car or look at pictures and drool, saying how clean it is. EX: your car (or mine fore example), we could have got a tub of bondo, made a bondo buggy, painted it and called it "clean", accepting every complement that was throwin out. Anyhow, this makes me think i should update my thread. Haven't gotten to far, but now the underneith can be used as a dinning room table
#346
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
I've been enjoying you thread as well. It would be nice if I was better with the sheet metal, or at least more enthusiastic about it. This is more metal work than I had bargained for when I bought the car, but of course it isn't surprising. I certainly don't enjoy it...but I don't hate it either. There are things I'd rather be doing than metal work, then there are things I'd rather not be doing...
Repairing the inner sill was something that must have been done as it is structural and where the seat belt mounts. Plus, the car would never pass a safety inspection with a huge hole in the sill underneath. That sill area is the last rear inner repair that needs to be made so now I can move onto the fairly significant repairs on the front end. You'll see what I mean in the next video when they are exposed by media blasting. I can't deal with the front floor until the surrounding metal is replaced, since the floor has to come out anyway to access it.
Your thread is one of my favourite on this forum for metal repair. I can't seem to find it again though...
Repairing the inner sill was something that must have been done as it is structural and where the seat belt mounts. Plus, the car would never pass a safety inspection with a huge hole in the sill underneath. That sill area is the last rear inner repair that needs to be made so now I can move onto the fairly significant repairs on the front end. You'll see what I mean in the next video when they are exposed by media blasting. I can't deal with the front floor until the surrounding metal is replaced, since the floor has to come out anyway to access it.
Your thread is one of my favourite on this forum for metal repair. I can't seem to find it again though...
#347
Turbo vert
iTrader: (33)
I thank you Aaron. It has been quite an ordeal to say the least. When i bought my car i did not expect to be doing this at all! I knew the quarter had been kinda fixed. I figured i would just re work the quarter and that be that...not the case. For the last, id say 6months or more i have been messing around with cat ****. Someone would leave garage door open and cats loved pissing on my car. All i been doing is sandblasting over and over and over again. Cat **** eats right threw primer and into the metal, making the metal rust big time in just one day. I payed someone to get rid of the cats so that took care of that lol. I have done a few under body mods for camber adjusters and such so nothing will touch/rub against the chassis at anytime. College just ended 2 days ago and starts back Jan. 6th and im trying to get alot done in a short amount of time. Another down side..i was going to build my motor so i was carrying my front iron and bumped into the corner of the vise. That cracked off the inner coolant jacket so i need a new front iron. This one only had 54k on it and was mint....Life goes on......
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...estoration+101
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...estoration+101
#348
Engine, Not Motor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,791
Likes: 0
Received 113 Likes
on
95 Posts
Part 20: Media Blasting The Front End - My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration
Merry Christmas everyone! It's about that time in the day where one starts to get tired of their crazy extended family, so to brighten the mood with a distraction, here's Episode 20 of my '76 Cosmo Restoration. In part 20, I media blast the front end and engine bay, removing 35 years of rust, gunk and dirt. Then POR-15's MetalReady is used to preserve the freshly blasted sheet metal and prevent surface rust from forming while the repairs are performed. So grab that new tablet or laptop, sit down with an adult beverage and enjoy. Included in this episode: making a blasting tent to contain the mess, info about media blasting, blasting the front end including inner fenders, wheel wells, frame and engine bay, and using MetalReady to prevent flash rust on the fresh metal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzv1X_v3dHk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzv1X_v3dHk
#350
Turbo vert
iTrader: (33)
Good work Aaron. I do have to mention something thats on my mind. I (personally) would get rid of that surface rust, grab a fiber wheel and run over it real quick. You ask why? Well, your doing all this work why settle for anything less than perfect. When i did my car i blasted a section, cleaned it, etched it. I had open bare metal for approx. 3min at a time. You should take it into consideration i think. After you get all your patches in idk if your going to blast them or fiber wheel them but if you wheel them just run over that spot. 10min tops. Good progress none the less.