no more than 2* negative camber. More negative camber, the better it'll handle. Set caster to stock or a little more. Didn't the 3 have issues with not enough caster? If so the kit can help. Set toe-in to 1/8". Any less toe in than that the car will wander under bump. Any more and outer edge of tire will wear.

With that camber, the car will follow grooves in the road and will be a little darty but handels great. I drove my rx7 like that for 2 years and REPU is getting pretty close to that.

 

Just an update. Waiting for the illuminas to come back from the machine shop. Here's a pix. RE speed camber and illuminas & GC coil-over from a FB

 

wackyracer, I am installing the same set up on my 7, I was just curious if you the the needle bearings will "wonder" around because of them being biger than the strut?

thanks,
kevin

 

Per Billy, that fine as long as you line it up before dropping the car on the ground.. Just be sure to keep them away from the head bolts.

 

That looks sweet. Be sure to post pics when you get it all done.

 

hey great idea wackyrace.. i was thinking of somehting simular, thats great though using the thrust bearing.. should eliminate allot of spring chatter/noise. i would put a sleve in there to keep it centered though, i dont see it staying in the middle for any lengthe of time, you could use the sleve thats used to allign it in the e shaft!
i was thinking about making my own camber plates.. but i cant find somewhere to supply me with the actual pillow mount!!i can make the rest easy, if anyone has advise thatd be great..

thanks

Paul

 

professional. nice work.

 

Which Tokico's are you installing and why do they have to be machined? Is it part # BZ1069? If so, I thought these just required a length spacer to work in stock rx3 strut housings.

 

Just my .02.
If the BZ's are the IT racing BZ's designed to fit with the Mazdatrix camber plates, they are way too stiff for street. I have some in my Rx2 right now and hate them. Get the standard Illumina inserts. I am running a stainless steel spacer at the bottom of the inside of the strut housing..it was just under 2" in length. WOrks fine...the shocks are just too ******' stiff...one is blown anyway. SInce it sounds like Wacky is getting them machined to fit, he's probably running the standards and below where the nut goes is too wide to fit the bearing.

I am working on trying out the Bilstiens that they use in 1st gens or I may just get some new standard illuminas. The Rx2 Bilsteins they have in Aus. look really nice for the rear end. I basically need new shocks all around.

 

Hey Jaime,
The BZ1069 are actually 5-way adjustable Illumina strut cartridges for the first gen. RX7. The reason I'm wondering if those are the ones Wacky is running is cuz I was going to order them for my RX3 but didn't think there would be a need for any modifications other than length spacers. Bilsteins are good too, but also pretty stiff.

 

Im using BZ1069 (MR2) from my 85 into the RX-3 so I can have more front springs selection and not to mention the brakes. Besides, I hardly drive the RX-3, probably 6 times a year since I have several cars.

I agree on the stiffness. I didnt like the rough ride in my FB. So I went back with tokico blues/coils in the front and for the rear, Illuminas and GC coils. Much better I think. Not to stiff for my beer belly

 

Hey Wacky,
Do the BZ1069 have to be machined to fit the RX3 strut housings? Thanks in advance.

 

Dont have the modded strut yet. When I get it back, I will check.

 

Sorry, I mis-read your question. No, the upper portion (below the thread section) had to be machined to fit the camber kit. And no, Im using 85 strut/brake in the RX-3. They are installed already except, I need to get a stronger penetrant. I cant remove the stock RX-3 brake hose.

 

What drawing program did you use..... "rass"

 

This thread ROCKS!

I'm going through this process of putting the GC rx3 coil-over kit, RE-Speed camber plates and eventually I'll go buy FB Rx7 (does year matter?) illumina's. That horizontal photo (with thrust bearing) someone posted was great to see!

I've got no idea how far down the housing I'm supposed to weld the new perch. Am I supposed to make it so the shocks are topped out when there's no weight on the strut?

The GC spring setup is at least 6" shorter than the stock setup. So that would make me think I need the perch to be 6" higher than the orig. perch to keep my ride height close?? That would be insane! I don't even think the housing is tall enough for that.

Do I need a thrust washer in there?

I that photo also saw a thick washer/spacer under the camber plate's spherical bearing. Me no have one and hope I don't need one.

Can anyone shed some light on things for me?