RX-2/RX-3 Rear Lowering Kit info
#1
RX-2/RX-3 Rear Lowering Kit info
After trying to obtain an actual Rear drop kit for my RX-3 from White-line in Australia and having to put up with people wanting to rape me on price on both product and shipping.... I went outside took apart my RX-3 and designed a kit myself.
The part is ultra simple, so I thought I'd share the info with you guys incase you wanted to copy it. If you are unable to make the block yourself, I'd be glad to make one for you.
there are essentially 2 parts to this.
First the block itself.
it is a block... Imagine that.... of aluminum, 2" tall, 2" Wide, and 4-1/2" long.
in the center of the block on one of the long sides drill a hole completely through the block with a 17/32 drill. then tap one side of this hole 1/2 way through or so with a 5/8-11 tap.
Thread in a grade 5 (because it is softer than a grade 8) 5/8-11 by 1.5" this should have about a 1/2" shoulder and then the hex head. once the bolt is completely seated in the block (only about 1" deep into the block) cut the head of the bolt off to leave the shoulder there as a nub 5/8" in diameter, and 3/8" tall.
Part 2 is ordering the U-bolts.
I am ordering mine through here:
http://www.springworks.com/u-bolts.html
here is the data you enter:
Diameter of rod: 3/8"
Inside dimension: 2-3/8"
Length of leg: 8"
Style of top: ROUND
Quantity: 4
I plan to take my mock up block to my machinist friend tomorrow to have some extra material milled out. and I still need to find a source for rubber to go between the block itself and the leaf.
let me know your thoughts.... Pictures to come.
The part is ultra simple, so I thought I'd share the info with you guys incase you wanted to copy it. If you are unable to make the block yourself, I'd be glad to make one for you.
there are essentially 2 parts to this.
First the block itself.
it is a block... Imagine that.... of aluminum, 2" tall, 2" Wide, and 4-1/2" long.
in the center of the block on one of the long sides drill a hole completely through the block with a 17/32 drill. then tap one side of this hole 1/2 way through or so with a 5/8-11 tap.
Thread in a grade 5 (because it is softer than a grade 8) 5/8-11 by 1.5" this should have about a 1/2" shoulder and then the hex head. once the bolt is completely seated in the block (only about 1" deep into the block) cut the head of the bolt off to leave the shoulder there as a nub 5/8" in diameter, and 3/8" tall.
Part 2 is ordering the U-bolts.
I am ordering mine through here:
http://www.springworks.com/u-bolts.html
here is the data you enter:
Diameter of rod: 3/8"
Inside dimension: 2-3/8"
Length of leg: 8"
Style of top: ROUND
Quantity: 4
I plan to take my mock up block to my machinist friend tomorrow to have some extra material milled out. and I still need to find a source for rubber to go between the block itself and the leaf.
let me know your thoughts.... Pictures to come.
#6
You are talking about lowering blocks between the axle housing and leaf springs? Rx2's do not have leaf springs as stated above. You can get these blocks in a kit with the u bolts just about any auto parts store.
There is another way to do this. Longer rear shackles, this will lengthen the spring eyelet centerlines which will lower the rear. It is safer than blocks - as a side note. The absolute best way is the have the springs de-arched at a driveline shop.
BTW, anyone want to measure the center to center distance of the stock rear rx3 shackles for me? Also, how wide is the leaf spring eyelet. I may have lowering shackles in stock.
-billy
There is another way to do this. Longer rear shackles, this will lengthen the spring eyelet centerlines which will lower the rear. It is safer than blocks - as a side note. The absolute best way is the have the springs de-arched at a driveline shop.
BTW, anyone want to measure the center to center distance of the stock rear rx3 shackles for me? Also, how wide is the leaf spring eyelet. I may have lowering shackles in stock.
-billy
#7
yeah you can get them at most auto store, but those block usually dont fit right cause they are usually made for domestic models. Dont get me wrong they do work one of my car has them, you just need to get the right length u-bolt....
And the other way just like you mentioned de arched the leaf.
let me know if you have the shackles.
And the other way just like you mentioned de arched the leaf.
let me know if you have the shackles.
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#8
Originally Posted by bwaits
You are talking about lowering blocks between the axle housing and leaf springs? Rx2's do not have leaf springs as stated above. You can get these blocks in a kit with the u bolts just about any auto parts store.
There is another way to do this. Longer rear shackles, this will lengthen the spring eyelet centerlines which will lower the rear. ALREADY DID THIS, It is safer than blocks - as a side note. The absolute best way is the have the springs de-arched at a driveline shop.... and this too, the old racers call these "flat-Springs"
I still was far too high in the rear. So I started this thread.
-billy
There is another way to do this. Longer rear shackles, this will lengthen the spring eyelet centerlines which will lower the rear. ALREADY DID THIS, It is safer than blocks - as a side note. The absolute best way is the have the springs de-arched at a driveline shop.... and this too, the old racers call these "flat-Springs"
I still was far too high in the rear. So I started this thread.
-billy
I'll post some pics later week to show the before and after shots, as well as my complete rear suspension set-up.
as far as the kits at the auto parts store go..
the U-bolts are far too large in every measurement, and I am not about to drill the bottom plate holes larger (reducing material effectively holding the suspension together)...
AND the closest blocks were to an S10, and where 1/2" too wide to fit...
while we are on it, post your RX-2/3 suspension set-up suggestions.
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