My MX5 Rotary swap
#51
Ok so throttle cable is mounted be it not very professionally. I will figure out a way to properly route it later down the line once the car has everything else finished. I also will make a new bracket to hold the return spring on the throttle assembly since the current spring return is a test job but it works
Will need a new AC line made and extended so it ill reach the RX7 AC pump, other than that the car should run this coming week
Will need a new AC line made and extended so it ill reach the RX7 AC pump, other than that the car should run this coming week
#52
Spent the day tracing and tagging wires for the wiring job thats up and coming.
(CAS wires ready using the stock shielding as well)
(Heater hose outlets ready)
(Will split and use this wire to power my water temperature on the gauge cluster from the sensor located on the block, then will disregard the rest of the loom)
(I will cut the red wire seen at the back of the engine to the right as that is the ground for the coil packs and use a new black thick gauge, will neaten all wiring and maybe tuck some)
(Sitting pretty)
(CAS wires ready using the stock shielding as well)
(Heater hose outlets ready)
(Will split and use this wire to power my water temperature on the gauge cluster from the sensor located on the block, then will disregard the rest of the loom)
(I will cut the red wire seen at the back of the engine to the right as that is the ground for the coil packs and use a new black thick gauge, will neaten all wiring and maybe tuck some)
(Sitting pretty)
Last edited by Ash.B; 02-17-13 at 12:36 AM.
#53
Update time:
Low pressure in tank fuel pump installed:
(Low pressure pump)
(Stock pump)
(Keep this rubber band it holds the pump to the frame)
(The feed tube bare without rubber O ring and plastic seat)
(Rubber O ring and plastic seat. Make sure these are caught if they fall out as they hold the fuel pump feed nipple in the feed tube securely. The plastic seat goes raised end into the feed tube/ flat face into the feed from the pump. Then the rubber O ring goes on top)
(I re-used the stock fuel pump rubber foot to sandwich the low pressure pump between the feed tube and stock bottom bracket since the low pressure fuel pump is shorter in length)
(Done)
Low pressure in tank fuel pump installed:
(Low pressure pump)
(Stock pump)
(Keep this rubber band it holds the pump to the frame)
(The feed tube bare without rubber O ring and plastic seat)
(Rubber O ring and plastic seat. Make sure these are caught if they fall out as they hold the fuel pump feed nipple in the feed tube securely. The plastic seat goes raised end into the feed tube/ flat face into the feed from the pump. Then the rubber O ring goes on top)
(I re-used the stock fuel pump rubber foot to sandwich the low pressure pump between the feed tube and stock bottom bracket since the low pressure fuel pump is shorter in length)
(Done)
Last edited by Ash.B; 02-18-13 at 03:04 AM.
#54
(Wires ready to be joined, I am joining them to keep the stock MX5 plug and connections so its a full plug and play set up)
(Keep this blue plug end as thats the end that plugs into the connection on the fuel tank cover)
Once the wires are ready to be joined tomorrow morning I will slip some fuel resistant hose over the positive wire to ensure no shorting occurs.
(Keep this blue plug end as thats the end that plugs into the connection on the fuel tank cover)
Once the wires are ready to be joined tomorrow morning I will slip some fuel resistant hose over the positive wire to ensure no shorting occurs.
Last edited by Ash.B; 02-18-13 at 03:19 AM.
#59
Sure , PM your contact details we can arrange a meet up
If your RotaMX is running by 23 March , there is a RX8 cruise happening but other rota's welcome, its the 3rd year running
check the link
2013 RX8 Mystery Tour - RX8Club.com
If your RotaMX is running by 23 March , there is a RX8 cruise happening but other rota's welcome, its the 3rd year running
check the link
2013 RX8 Mystery Tour - RX8Club.com
#65
Update time:
The wiring has been broken down and sorted out so I know what I am doing, that will get done in the morning as well as picking up the new pilot bearing and seal. The bearing was a pain to get out using various tools so without wasting more time I invested in a 3 prong bearing puller and man did that make it a pleasure to remove so I would honestly say go buy/borrow one instead of doing it the other ways described (My bearing was seized in as well for reference).
Mounts left to be made and new oil pan, clutch and flywheel etc arrive on Friday and if that holds true we are looking at a Friday night start up
For reference pilot bearing measurements are:
ID - 15mm
OD - 20mm
Bearing puller - 3 prong hand puller with a 13mm-32mm opening range.
If anyone in New Zealand needs to remove a pilot bearing I will happily lend this out if you pay shipping
The wiring has been broken down and sorted out so I know what I am doing, that will get done in the morning as well as picking up the new pilot bearing and seal. The bearing was a pain to get out using various tools so without wasting more time I invested in a 3 prong bearing puller and man did that make it a pleasure to remove so I would honestly say go buy/borrow one instead of doing it the other ways described (My bearing was seized in as well for reference).
Mounts left to be made and new oil pan, clutch and flywheel etc arrive on Friday and if that holds true we are looking at a Friday night start up
For reference pilot bearing measurements are:
ID - 15mm
OD - 20mm
Bearing puller - 3 prong hand puller with a 13mm-32mm opening range.
If anyone in New Zealand needs to remove a pilot bearing I will happily lend this out if you pay shipping
#66
Update time:
Its gone Engine mounts being made tonight/tomorrow morning, wiring is almost done since I am doing it myself and that leaves me to go out tomorrow and grab some oil and coolant and fire the motor up :p Fingers crossed it fires and runs.
Its gone Engine mounts being made tonight/tomorrow morning, wiring is almost done since I am doing it myself and that leaves me to go out tomorrow and grab some oil and coolant and fire the motor up :p Fingers crossed it fires and runs.
#69
check out the MX Rota on this page
2013 NZ 4&ROTARY NATIONALS: FIRST LOOK - Speedhunters
you could have poss already seen it
2013 NZ 4&ROTARY NATIONALS: FIRST LOOK - Speedhunters
you could have poss already seen it
#70
thats so freaking sweet. I saw it at the show but didnt take any pictures of it
Update time:
Car should hopefully come back tomorrow with custom oil pan and pick up, new subframe modifications to allow the use of the stock RX7 S7 mounts and be lined and and bolted down. Next up is exhaust but firstly and most importantly is finding a FD igniter so I can wire up my coils A item I overlooked till now for some reason. Once I find a igniter I can start the car.
Update time:
Car should hopefully come back tomorrow with custom oil pan and pick up, new subframe modifications to allow the use of the stock RX7 S7 mounts and be lined and and bolted down. Next up is exhaust but firstly and most importantly is finding a FD igniter so I can wire up my coils A item I overlooked till now for some reason. Once I find a igniter I can start the car.
#71
try these guys , they list RX parts on trade me too
try these guys , they list RX parts on trade me too
they used to be Auckland base but now in the South Island
Rotor Rek :021 768 278
http://www.rotorek.co.nz
they used to be Auckland base but now in the South Island
Rotor Rek :021 768 278
http://www.rotorek.co.nz
#72
Thanks mate, I have given him a txt as he is the guy I bought my flywheel and clutch bits from. Still waiting for my clutch and stuff and its been a week now so I will have to wait and see if he actually sent my stuff before buying more.
#73
Update time:
Ordered a FD igniter from TRWORX (great guy and very helpful) cost me $100 NZD all up with shipping so I am very happy with that, and hopefully once the car comes back tomorrow (because the engineer is taking his time ) I can wire it up and have it waiting for the igniter to start it. I am using the stock 13B-REW mounts so I will be sure to grab a picture of that as it may make things easier for others wanting to do the swap and gets around buying a tubular subframe.
Ordered a FD igniter from TRWORX (great guy and very helpful) cost me $100 NZD all up with shipping so I am very happy with that, and hopefully once the car comes back tomorrow (because the engineer is taking his time ) I can wire it up and have it waiting for the igniter to start it. I am using the stock 13B-REW mounts so I will be sure to grab a picture of that as it may make things easier for others wanting to do the swap and gets around buying a tubular subframe.
#75
According to the manual the module is a battery negative cable, am I right in thinking that I can ground this along the body or does it need to go directly back to the negative side of the battery?
Also does anyone have a pin out diagram for the igniter? I have two diagrams but both show different pins being used so I am unsure which is correct
Also does anyone have a pin out diagram for the igniter? I have two diagrams but both show different pins being used so I am unsure which is correct