My 12a rotary starlet - NOW 13b Turbo2
10-18-09 | 08:10 PM
#102
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From: Dominican Republic
Set your fuel pressure at 4.5 and leave it alone, but make sure your guage is accurate. If you are flooding at 4.5 psi, then you have other issues like a bad needle seat, fuel float level too high.With a stock port you may even need a 60 idle jet, but once you get past 3000 rpm the idle jet is not doing anything. If you are cutting out at higher rpm's chances are you are running lean. Try using some higher main fuel jets. Just jump up to the next size and go out and test it. Keep jumping up until the car stops making power. If it keeps getting worse, then go the other way. This is why a A/f and EGT makes things so much easier- it takes the guessing game out. Also, set your timing at 25-26 degrees BTDC and run 0 split if you can. If you can't run 0 split then run the least amount of split as you can. You can notch out the vacuum pod slots for the trailing to advance the trailing some more. 
. Just don't advance the trailing more than the leading obviously. Also, check and make sure your spark plugs are not fouled. If they are you have to replace them.
. Just don't advance the trailing more than the leading obviously. Also, check and make sure your spark plugs are not fouled. If they are you have to replace them.Can you run lean and flood at the same time ???
My leading is at 20 deg, the guy mentioned that my trailing is too retarded that he will advance it when i get back to the shop.
10-19-09 | 11:47 PM
#106
Bump your leading to at least 25 degrees BTDC and trailing the same at 4000rpm's. You may only get 20 on the trailing but try to get it as close to 25 as you can, like 23.
10-20-09 | 06:52 AM
#107
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From: Cedar Rapids IA
Hey dude, since you know starlets let me ask you something. Mint original 90+k miles original owner, original paint, starlet. How much do they go for? I think friend got a great deal on one lol
10-20-09 | 07:58 AM
#108
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Yes, if your float level is incorrect and jetting not correct. When you say your flooding, when does it happen? Does it happen while the car is idling? Or after the car is turned off then tried to start again?
Bump your leading to at least 25 degrees BTDC and trailing the same at 4000rpm's. You may only get 20 on the trailing but try to get it as close to 25 as you can, like 23.
Bump your leading to at least 25 degrees BTDC and trailing the same at 4000rpm's. You may only get 20 on the trailing but try to get it as close to 25 as you can, like 23.
Will try to bump the leading to 25 then and start from there with the trailing.
Thanks jay.
)
10-20-09 | 08:15 AM
#109
thats over priced. I can get one for less than that it comes with an extra set of new engine and tranny. but again, I rather not get it since 76 and up are useless in CALI due to smog check issues
10-20-09 | 09:14 AM
#111
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From: Cedar Rapids IA
Yeah we found this one for 1500 i believe, super clean no rust. A great price compared to ones iv seen for around 4-5. We had a red one here too that was built for drag sell for around 9k. This one gonna stay stock for a few years more.
10-20-09 | 12:14 PM
#112
Well the last time it happened was when I stopped at a light.
Will try to bump the leading to 25 then and start from there with the trailing.
Thanks jay.
Well it all depends on who owns it, but with that desc it should be between 2-3.5k sometimes it is cheaper than 2k and that might be called what your friend got (a great deal)
Will try to bump the leading to 25 then and start from there with the trailing.
Thanks jay.
Well it all depends on who owns it, but with that desc it should be between 2-3.5k sometimes it is cheaper than 2k and that might be called what your friend got (a great deal
)Ok, so either you have a float level too high, idle jet too big, or your idle mixture screws are not set properly. Remember, when you screw the idle mixture screws down(clockwise) you are making the mixture leaner and vise versa. I would do this- turn your idle mixture screws all the way down. Then turn them out one turn. Start the car and see how it idles and transitions and go from there.
10-21-09 | 01:02 PM
#113
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Jay, I just changed my 70 idle jets with 65 and the car doesnt even hold the idle! 
. Also the sound is very weird and there is a lot of vibration at the engine bay, what you suggest me to do now? should I put back the 70 idle jets????
Thanks
Emir-
. Also the sound is very weird and there is a lot of vibration at the engine bay, what you suggest me to do now? should I put back the 70 idle jets????Thanks
Emir-
10-21-09 | 08:10 PM
#115
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lol you are evil wacky
, he is just trying to help
I just found out that the idle jets came lose and were not attached to the air corrector, oh boy I am a noob I know
I wonder why these idle jets dont attach tight like the other pair (70F10) I have ??? they seem to fit but not that tight, what can I do in this case ???
, he is just trying to help I just found out that the idle jets came lose and were not attached to the air corrector
, oh boy I am a noob I knowI wonder why these idle jets dont attach tight like the other pair (70F10) I have ??? they seem to fit but not that tight, what can I do in this case ???
10-21-09 | 11:02 PM
#116
I'm using 65 idle jets in my full bridgeport motor with 48mm chokes, so no way is the 70 idle jet too lean. You got other issues. You say you're flooding at idle right. So going down to a smaller idler jet should fix your problem unless your float level is way off or your mixture screws are not adjusted properly and or your timing is way off.
To fix the jet so that it will be secure just take some pliers and squeeze the side of the jet holder in so that the jet sits snug.
Ps. Do yourself a favor and buy a Weber carb manual so you don't get bad info from guys like Wackoffcinnamonstarfishpuncher.
10-22-09 | 06:16 AM
#117
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From: Dominican Republic
Whatever wackoffracer. LOL
I'm using 65 idle jets in my full bridgeport motor with 48mm chokes, so no way is the 70 idle jet too lean. You got other issues. You say you're flooding at idle right. So going down to a smaller idler jet should fix your problem unless your float level is way off or your mixture screws are not adjusted properly and or your timing is way off.
To fix the jet so that it will be secure just take some pliers and squeeze the side of the jet holder in so that the jet sits snug.
Ps. Do yourself a favor and buy a Weber carb manual so you don't get bad info from guys like Wackoffcinnamonstarfishpuncher.
I'm using 65 idle jets in my full bridgeport motor with 48mm chokes, so no way is the 70 idle jet too lean. You got other issues. You say you're flooding at idle right. So going down to a smaller idler jet should fix your problem unless your float level is way off or your mixture screws are not adjusted properly and or your timing is way off.
To fix the jet so that it will be secure just take some pliers and squeeze the side of the jet holder in so that the jet sits snug.
Ps. Do yourself a favor and buy a Weber carb manual so you don't get bad info from guys like Wackoffcinnamonstarfishpuncher.
alright, well the flood issue stopped when I lowered the fuel psi to 3psi, it doesn't flood anymore, i will play more with the mixture screws, need also to borrow a wideband and check for sure if i am running lean or rich
11-10-09 | 11:15 AM
#120
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From: Dominican Republic
Well the manual doesnt cover that much the IDA series, I will have to buy another one that covers how to tune and troubleshoot idas specially
I have a question for you all.
whats the best way to run a return line when using a weber carb? I have the return line hanging on the engine bay and I would like to plug it into my fpr since my fuel press is dropping and I've read in the forum that in order to fix that I will have to run a return line.
Here is a picture of my current setup.
I wonder if I can just put the return line on the blue blockoff fitting located at the right of my fpr ???
I have a question for you all.
whats the best way to run a return line when using a weber carb? I have the return line hanging on the engine bay and I would like to plug it into my fpr since my fuel press is dropping and I've read in the forum that in order to fix that I will have to run a return line.
Here is a picture of my current setup.
I wonder if I can just put the return line on the blue blockoff fitting located at the right of my fpr ???
11-10-09 | 09:46 PM
#125
nice starlet!! i miss those little cars when i was 16 back in new zealand we used to do donuts and burnouts every weekend party and have fun quick jack up on the axel have new tyres on in 10mins lol
they are like dime a dozen over there very popular with rotary swaps..
congrats on a nice ride
cheers
chris
they are like dime a dozen over there very popular with rotary swaps..
congrats on a nice ride
cheers
chris