Abosolute sweetness, very well done. Exhaust tip is on the wrong side btw. lol

 

lol indeed.

That second video turned out pretty well.

 

I learned how to adjust brakes on a GLC yesterday. Kind of an interesting approach. They're now as tight as the ones on the RX-4. I also adjusted the e-brake handle. Now the only slop in the brake pedal travel will be due to the master cylinder's slow internal leak. I haven't fired it up yet to check with the vacuum booster working, but I'd estimate it's about half way down now instead of 3/4 like it was before.

It's good enough for now. And when the rear end is upgraded, the master cylinder can be upgraded too. That will make the pedal feel like a 1st gen.

 

I've got some updates.

New engine:
Y plates
74 housings
R5 assembly
74 spec intake ports/ slightly larger exhaust ports (closing timing was moved up 2mm then beveled like stock)
RB Holley 600 (meant for streetports so technically too big but test ran and it wowed me)
beehive because the air oil cooler leaked and blocked air flow to radiator
aluminum on aluminum waterpump (GMB)
hockey puck motor mounts
Still working on a fan and pullies


resurfaced "Greddy" (apparently) 8 pound steel flywheel for 215mm only


79 tranny (better ratios than the old ribcase)
reman starter (fast cranking)
new header, flows better, collects into 2.5" RB thickwall, not the measily 2" thickwall seen earlier
stainless steel heatshield (I had some lying around)


Still need a competition tranny mount
Magnaflow 5x8 14" shell length 2.5" core center/center acting as a presilencer (hope it lasts). A bit oversized but I made it fit in the high area under the pass seat with plenty of ground clearance


It shifts over to the other side; the piston side, to get over the rearend. Here I used an RB thickwall 2.5" u-bend cut to make two 90s. Then a Magnaflow 4x9 14" shell 2.5" core center/offset. It again barely fits.


Over the axle and through the woods- er past the panhard bar...

 

Here is a Borla that PercentSevenC got a few years ago. It has a center/offset and the core is only 2" ID. I chose this muffler because frankly it looks a little better from the back than a similar Magnaflow, and I needed a center/offset muffler in this position. Plus I had already test ran it on the old 2" exhaust and it was the only muffler that took the sharp metallic sting off the rotary exhaust note; the raspiness, which occurs when a small exhaust is not able to expand, was reduced noticeably, as well as the general volume level, which was needed here.

This new 2.5" exhaust has also benefitted from this muffler in that it quiets things down just enough to be pleasant while still allowing the tone through. But what about feeding a 2.5" exhaust into a smaller 2" muffler? Any problems with that? Well fortunately it's so far back from the engine, the gasses have a chance to cool down and contract, so require a smaller pipe diameter to maintain velocity. So I'm perfectly fine with the idea of slightly reducing the size. RB does it too. And I stuck a nice 304 stainless tip from an RB powerpulse muffler on it.


The Carter 72GPH pump was loud so I added rubber pads between the mounts. Seems to work fine. Less headache inducing now, but I gotta drive it again to be sure. Gotta change that filter too. Gross.


Still need to finish the engine bay and chose an intake. I think I've settled on a Camden 5".

 

Looks good

 

Nice Jeff...don't you love how the only attatchment points for the exhaust are the manifold at the front and the hanger at the very rear?

 

Thanks guys. Yeah the exhaust presented some design challenges. I gave myself plenty of time so as not to rush anything. As I recall it took about a month to build. Turned out nice enough, and finally quiet enough, which is not an easy task on a rotary if you also want flow.

 

Nice work Jeff , I am building a 12a glc right now . I used a rx2 rear end in mine with the small axel lsd (3.90) ,Don't know why I started from the rear on my build but thats how it goes . easy conversion and the rx2 rear end is 3/4 in narrower end to end . I have one question ,did you have to modify the tunnel ? I'm using a motor and trans out of an 83 rx7 ,and hopefully after the shifter mod I can push the motor back a little .

 

You don't want to push the motor back, but it can be done. You'll see.

 

Hey guys I got the 78 glc.. and I have a 74 rx4 parts car...motor, trans, rear, wire hardness, cooler etc...my Q is..do i have to mod the trans tunnel? or I can put a spacer on the cross member to raise the body?.. the rear diff of the rx4 is longer?..gears? any other info will help....

 

Where is your build thread?

 

lol

 

I know is not my thread!!! it was just a simple question!!!!

 

Jeff I would appreciate hearing the reason why you should not push the motor back . I'm just about ready to slap my 12a in and any help would greatly be appreciated.

 

if you are using an rx3 crossmember, you can use a stock mazda driveshaft and save a little money. If you find a early style radiator with the protruding fill neck it will allow you to install the radiator under the upper rad support and gain you a bit more space yet...this is especially true if you want to run a mech fan, but good luck with that since it requires quite a bit of trimming of the blades and still wants to take out the upper rad hose every time you wind up the engine. You can move the engine back a little about a inch and you prob still wouldnt need to trim the shifter hole, but watch out for the slave cylinder shift fork touching the trans tunnel. Engine height might be another area of concern since the oil pan will be millimeters above your steering gear. it might also be nice to raise things up a bit for the pinion angle as well. Hope this helps. Post up a thread or some pics of your project. We need more Great Little Cars (with rotary swaps) in here.

 

It's your car so do whatever makes sense to you. But take it from two who have installed the engine in the proper spot. Don't move the engine back! You see in the picture above and earlier in this thread how my engine fits well with enough room for the clutch fan and the clutch fork. If you mount the radiator correctly, the fan blades will clear the upper hose. Mine do, but I'm still going to add a piece of sheet metal or metal tube around the hose to protect it, not that I need to with hockey puck motor mounts preventing the engine from moving around, but you may have a different experience.

 

Both of you make a lot of sense , and cost is a factor to this build (the turbo rx2 is getting the $ thrown at it).Thank you both for the help.

 

Yep.

cfamilyfix, I didn't have to trim my second fan at all (it already had some rub marks/wear from the shroud which worked to my favor). I used an S4 NA plastic blade section mounted on a 1st gen clutch section. Then a stamped steel adaptor found on some 1st gen models.

I'll get an updated pic of the engine bay and the current clutch fan a bit later. It might be helpful for the noobs to see how it all went together.

 

Glad to hear Jeff. I think my fan issues were more brought on by radiator selection that anything else. I used one of those "Champion" aluminum ones for the FB...with the heater pipe on the wrong side and the overflow fitting going the entire wrong way. Anyway whoever designed the radiator got the dimentions very wrong. I found this out the hard way when I decided to get one for the 81 FB project...what a nightmare to put in!

 

Please find a way to get rid of that beehive oil cooler. Besides that its all good!

 

Your prejudice is showing.

 

I did some research about these GLC's and found out that they came in rwd up until 1980. I wanted to know if I where to swap a rotary motor into a 1981 GLC, would I be able to convert it to a rwd? like using rx parts? thanks

 

Nope. There, I just saved you a big headache. You're welcome.

 

The wagons came in RWD until 85...then it became the 323 and all were FWD.