Thanks Siraniko, for now I'm keeping them.

 

Before I completely took the car apart, I made some templets for the position of the badges on the c pilar and fender. Just to keep the look stock and period correct. Test fit the badge with regular duck tape, bought some 3m heavy duty double sided tape, which is rated to something like 120lbs. so that should do the trick.

 

Dropped off my brake booster to get rebuilt, and to my surprise it was done the same day! I wish all businesses operated like this.



All I need is the Bendix sticker that goes on top.

 

How much and where did u get the brake booster rebuilt from???????

 

A forum member "riverseine" posted this place on another thread. They have two facilities, Northern California and in the L.A. area.

Power Brake Exchange

Cost was $140, all new everything and powder coated.

 

power booster looks killer .I wish I would have made templates for my 2 , that is a good ides .

 

All the trailing arms and pan hard needed to be cleaned up, for new bushing and powder. I took them down to my local shop the deals with classics. This guy handled my ball joints, and was pretty fair, charged $40 to remove old ones and reinstall new joints. He quoted me $150 just to press them out. So I decided to handle them myself.


Drilled out the old bushing and then pried them out with screw drivers and 5lbs mallet, then once removed ran a 2" wire wheel on my drill to clean all the glue residue. A messy job!



All cleaned up.



looks like new.

 

looking really......

 

Wow you even have the under engine cover! This whole thread is great! totally using the tape idea, thanks for posting it!

 

Began to fit the RE fender badges, I made a templet using a spare badge to trace over the chip board. Then once I cut out the shape, place it over the badge, before removing it from the car. Use body lines as reference points.

I bought these reproduction badge from Australia. These actually are a nice pair and very close to the original badge I have. Well I say close to one of the badges, this car had one plastic and one metal. The plastic badges are slightly bigger than the metal. The templet I made was off a plastic badge, you can see the difference in size.



Just need to repeat this on the other side, after I flop the templet and reposition the badge shape. As it won't fit if I just flop it, since the badge shape will be in reverse. The C pillar badge templet did work when flopping it, since it's the same shape in reverse.

 

Thanks RX2fan, My first RX2 had the plastic engine cover, which was falling apart form years of use. This car had the metal cover, which I had never seen. Straighten it as much as I could before powder.

 

Thats interesting, I have the plastic one from my car but it broke when I had it in the trunk of the car, that metal one seem much better.

 

Trying to sort out the front brakes, I have a good set of stock rotors and calipers. So for now, it's staying stock. I'de like to use the stock RX2 hub and eventually find a bolt on rotor from another model, to upgrade to better and more accessible parts. If anyone has suggestions, or has done an economical conversion? Please... do tell.

For now, more pics

Had the steering box rebuilt a few months ago. Came back silver and I hit it with several coats of satin black VHT.


I found this new out of Mazcare in Australia. For about half the price than the one on ebay.

 

A few months ago someone here made a thread of how they were adapting BMW E30 parts for the hub and brake parts or something like that, I don't remember too well

 

Yes it was BUMBLEBEE I believe that's his user name.he was using turbo 4 pot calipers and custom made caliper mounts and BMW rotors.

 

Thanks fellas! Found the thread, and I'll give it a go. In the mean time had the rotors resurfaced, and new pads. I need to reassemble the front so I can get it rolling stock, well until I get a stock rear end.

 

nice work mate. Btw who rebuilt your steering box? how much was it? I thought there was a strange metric sized bearing in them that made a rebuild difficult. Maybe yours was still in good enough shape to reuse.

 

I used a local shop that deals with classics, mainly detroit steel. They sent it off to get rebuilt, it was $115. When I brought it in, they didn't even flinch. Normally just by mentioning the make and model, shops will tell me right away if it's possible. Maybe being in the LA area, there are more shops with spare parts?

I didn't get it done here, but these guys seemed like they have everything. And there's one up in Nor-Cal.

Power Brake Exchange

 

Your doing an outstanding job with that RX-2 !!! Looking forward to seen it the finish product.

 

Not a whole lot of progress, been waiting on parts to come back from the platers. Even though my pics are blurry, the finish is pretty cool.
Now the assembly of the front suspension can begin.







Disassembled, cleaned, painted, greased the pedal assembly. I've had nos pieces for some time ready to go on the car, like the pedal rubbers!

 

Installed the coil overs, now the lower control arms, front sway, and strearing linkage can all be installed with all the freshly plated hardware.

 

About 15 years ago I met a gentleman that worked at a Mazda parts and service. I purchase a bunch of small rubber bits, that you just can't find anymore. Juan at J-Auto.net set me up with a full set of urethane bushings.



Using old dirty nuts and bolts didn't look good to me, so glad I had the little bits and pieces re-plated.



Tried to save as much of the original rubber as possible.



Couldn't resist putting some of the trim on... looks pretty clean!



Hood latch and hardware was supposed to be body color, but got tire of waiting on the painter to do it. So opted to cad plate it... came up nice.

 

More little bits I've been hoarding for years, so glad I just bought the stuff when I came across it. Not really knowing if I would use them, I figured... better get it now, who knows when I'll see this item again.



Waiting on the Moog Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves to arrive, I gave up on sourcing the longer inner tie rods. To much hassle and expense, hopefully this will be the solution to complete the steering linkage.

 

WOW... Keep it up. looking good so far

 

Wow this is an amazing build you are doing! The RX2 is my favorite.