i was under the impression that the flywheel was cut for 6v gears. i have not attempted to install my starter yet but we will see when i get there.

 

That would make sense considering the kennedyadapters site suggests using a 6v starter. All I know is right now I have my 12v starter installed and it works. So I'll use it till it dies.

 

THAT VID WAS TIT WOW...thats how you do it...lol...nice build...any updates or new vids

 

nice to see. i am starting a similar project. with a single turbo 13b injected motor into a fiberglass buggy. The motor is arriving next week with the harness, ecu, and top mounted intercooler. should be fun

 

Nice. Turbo in a buggy will make for an insane ride.

I would love to have lots of progress to update you guys on, but I don't. I am still waiting for the fiberglass fenders which I ordered over a month ago and I starting to wonder WTF!! And I still have some body work to do and paint.

For even more important updates though. My wife gave birth on July 5 to a health baby boy. We named him Lucas and most of my time since then has been with them. I will be able to sneak out every now and then to work on the car though. Progress will slow but I will not stop. I am going to spend a few hours outside now while I can!

 

Turbo buggy sounds awesome Who did you order the fiberglass from? I believe I ordered custom fiberglass rear fenders for my bug from markV (they had to make a new mold for what I wanted) and it only took about 3 weeks... I put the bigger elephant style lights in a 2 inch bigger standard bug fender. Call them up and see what is going on with your order

 

congrats on the baby boy

 

e_deher: Thanks man, he is awesome.

lilsht: I ordered the fenders from glass-action. I spoke with the owner on the phone and he was a super nice guy. I ordered 2" wider in the front 3" wider in the back and also wider running boards to match the big fenders. When I spoke to him on the phone he said they had to finish them before sending them out. He asked if I was in a rush because he would go over them an extra time before sending them to make sure they are perfect. I said no rush make em perfect. That is why I am not upset just starting to wonder as that was a month ago. But they seem legit so I'll just wait.

Really can't wait to get them so I can finish the wiring with the head and tail lights and also paint the fenders.

 

Sweet Are you going with the full german look and painting the bumpers up with the turn signals in them? it looks sick on my bug with no lights on the fenders and the signals down below, more race style I think.

 

Yeah I'm going German look or euro whatev you want to call it. My front turns are actually in the headlight housing. So its essentially shaved. I shaved all the chrome, I really don't want any chrome on the car. The only chrome on the car will be the porsche wheels. Color matched bumpers and everything else.

The pic below is kind of my inspiration. I love the way it looks and I am kind of modeling my car after it. I hope the owner of the car doesn't mind me using his pic.



This guy actually put a mid mounted 1.8t motor in his car. Really nice setup. My car has about the same stance, just different wheels. I might go with the different colored fenders but not sure yet. Like I said I love the look but I don't want to completely rob the guys style.

 

you engine is carbed right? makes the ecu easier too...
i have an injected motor coming with the ecu...i hope it works. then the fuel pressure/ pump to worry about

 

Yeah I'm carbed so I didn't have to worry about wiring. did you get your adapter plate yet? and does your buggy have a swingaxle or irs?

 

I like the bug in the picture. Not a big fan of two tones but it's definately nice to see some non traditional bugs. I dislike the chrome trim on the bugs! :p The porsche rims are lookers and make the car look stout. What size are you running on the rubbers and rims?

 

I've got porsche design 90 wheels from the early 90's era cars 16x6 front 16x8 back. And something like 195/40/16 front with 225/50/16 back. The tires in the rear are much larger than the front which creates a raked look.




very low at the moment



Those are the original front fenders which were kind of hammered. Won't be using them since the fiberglass wings are on the way, hopefully.

 

Very Nice I've got 18's around my bug with 265's in the rear and 235's in the rear for a stagered look The 18's I have really fill up the 2 inch wider fenders so yours will look pretty sweet I don't know if i saw them or not, but are you gonna add some sway bars? And dang, that is wayyy low, the height on my bug would never go that low or else my water pipes, extended shocks, exhaust tubing, and my wheels would rub! :p

 

That is low!

 

I like how you did the radiator, when you get your gauges hooked up, please let us know what kind of temps your running, Did you say what size and type of radiator you were running. Are you running heavy duty trans ? Thanks for sharing. I'm loving it. I have a 53 Split window bug, I would love to do this to, but i'm afraid the vintage police would kill me.

 

nah i going to order my adapter plate once i pick up the engine on wednesday. i need to order a counter weight along with the adapter plate. also i think a stage 2 clutch will do fine. i believe it has irs since it has two shocks

 

84gslsee: The radiator is out of a 93-98 VW golf or jetta with a 2.0L. I have all the wires run for the gauges but the only thing that has held me up is that I didn't want to mount the gauges until I painted the dash. The dash is ready for paint, I just have to paint it. And yes I believe if you cut up a 53 split the vintage guys would probably string you up. You'd prob be better with a type 4 Porsche motor. But the $ is a problem with them.

e_deher: If your trans looks like mine in the pic below you have a swingaxle. With the swingaxle the whole axletube swings. So when you slam a swingaxle you get a sever amount of camber like in the two tone car below. With IRS you'll have a cv joint at either end of the axle. This setup allows the wheels to remain vertical with up and down travel. Which in most cases is the better or the two.



This is my swingaxle with no motor or any other weight so you see how the axletubes are angled downward. Once loaded they will sit level or angle upward to create positive camber. Like the fellow below.

 

yea my trans is exactly like yours...
i tried your link but the post has been deleted.

 

e deher: If you are buying a crated rotary, contact the seller and see if they have a counter weight you can have off the auto trans. My seller threw in a bunch of accessories off the original car for free and even installed the counter weight for me

 

I had a request for more pics of the cut out for the radiator, so here goes:

This should be in chronological order



This is before any cutting, If you look at where the red and purple caps are that arched piece of sheet metal was removed. Also the two pieces to the left and the right that lead into that piece with the arch were removed. They were there to provide a seal for the air cooled motor to separate the hot air from the cool air. Don't need those anymore



This pic is not my car but I did't have a pic of the rear shelf before I removed it.



This is after I cut out the rear shelf and made a side bracket to mount the rear tray about 4" higher. Basically creating room for the radiator.








A pic from above through the rear window.



This is the cross member which will support most of the rear tray in its new location. This is all out of light gauge 1" square stock.



Tabs were welded on to support the rad.



This is just a mockup of the rad in location. Not complete yet.

 

These are the mounts I made to fit to the radiator to meet the tabs that were welded to the new frame.






Finished and mounted in place.









Here you can see how I ran the water lines. I worked out great because the rad that I used had the inlet and outlet on the same side. So I just mounted it so they would be on the same side of the motor as the water pump inlet and outlet. Makes for shorter water lines and cleaner install. You may just be able to make out the fans mounted under the rad.

I still have to reinstall the rear shelf in its new location on the frame that I made. I have just been trying to figure out the best way to make it removeable for future access and still maintain a quiet cockpit.

 

Very cool idea in with the radiator position One question, IDK if you have them or not, but do you have room to add some keffar bars by the trans for stiff support? or is the radiator taking up most of the space, cant tall by the pics :p

 

Great question, its funny because I was looking at the one I'm going to buy. I was considering making one but I figured by the time I did it right and bought all of the heim ends and the tube stock it would prob be time saving and cost effective to buy one. Then I found one here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie....php?id=679776 and I thought well that looks pretty badass for the price. So I'm going to get the 1" chromoly one.

I did check for the fit and the rad is mounted high enough that I should have enough room to run the brace and if not I will modify it if I need to. The kafer brace is a must have in this application because of the added weight of the motor and added power. I don't want those frame horns to twist.