1994 repu
#1
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From: Goose Creek, SC
1994 repu
Well, not yet. I just got the truck today; a 1994 b2300. It still has the 4cyl (whopping 98hp) but not for long. This badboy's coming out and is getting a 13b
Now, I know it can't be the first one. I searched, but didn't get a whole lot. I found that the b2600i swap is super easy since the bell housing from the Rx7 fits the truck's transmission. After welding on some engine mounts, it's all downhill from there. BUT the 94 b2300 was the first year of the ranger/b-series abortion So I'm thinking the Rx7 transmission will be going in as well.
The truck was a steal though, at $450!!
Missing the tailgate, needs a driver's side door, and the engine isn't getting spark. I say, buy a ranger tailgate and door (cheaper) and rip that 4 pot out, weld in a 13b from my GSL-SE, call it a modern REPU
By the way, the GSL-SE has too much body damage, and I HATE body work. I can live with a little beat up truck. Not the same story with the FB.
Now, I know it can't be the first one. I searched, but didn't get a whole lot. I found that the b2600i swap is super easy since the bell housing from the Rx7 fits the truck's transmission. After welding on some engine mounts, it's all downhill from there. BUT the 94 b2300 was the first year of the ranger/b-series abortion So I'm thinking the Rx7 transmission will be going in as well.
The truck was a steal though, at $450!!
Missing the tailgate, needs a driver's side door, and the engine isn't getting spark. I say, buy a ranger tailgate and door (cheaper) and rip that 4 pot out, weld in a 13b from my GSL-SE, call it a modern REPU
By the way, the GSL-SE has too much body damage, and I HATE body work. I can live with a little beat up truck. Not the same story with the FB.
#2
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From: Goose Creek, SC
This is the donor car:
Here's a closeup of just SOME, and I mean SOME of the amateur body work done to this car before I bought it. This is the door hinge on the driver's side, and the damn thing is welded on. Both the door and frame. I already cut it off and put on a new door, but I got seriously tired of doing that over, and over, and over again. Really, this guy did TERRIBLE welding, and he loved to do it. Both fenders were welded on for crap's sake. The driver's side fender was MADE into an SA fender using bondo (don't ask, I don't know). The passenger's side was an SA fender, and it had the FB bumper. The front bumper doesn't line up at ALL. I think it may have frame damage, I just can't tell for sure. The rear "roll pan" is... I just don't know. Ghey exhaust, awful blue tweed interior.... the list just goes on. Poor car, it needs to be put down quietly
Here's a closeup of just SOME, and I mean SOME of the amateur body work done to this car before I bought it. This is the door hinge on the driver's side, and the damn thing is welded on. Both the door and frame. I already cut it off and put on a new door, but I got seriously tired of doing that over, and over, and over again. Really, this guy did TERRIBLE welding, and he loved to do it. Both fenders were welded on for crap's sake. The driver's side fender was MADE into an SA fender using bondo (don't ask, I don't know). The passenger's side was an SA fender, and it had the FB bumper. The front bumper doesn't line up at ALL. I think it may have frame damage, I just can't tell for sure. The rear "roll pan" is... I just don't know. Ghey exhaust, awful blue tweed interior.... the list just goes on. Poor car, it needs to be put down quietly
#4
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Yeah, the B2200 is pretty common too. I've never seen a 2300 done before, although I don't think I'm the first. I've already signed up on mazdatruckin.com. Same screen name. Lots of guys were asking about doing the swap, but no one ever came through.
The rx7 is a gsl-se, so 13b efi. I don't know how to work with carburetors too well. I've had a little experience with them, and I'm sure they're more simple but fuel injection is something I can work with.
The rx7 is a gsl-se, so 13b efi. I don't know how to work with carburetors too well. I've had a little experience with them, and I'm sure they're more simple but fuel injection is something I can work with.
#7
Really mazda?
Hi.
I think the B2300 is really a Ford, and i will be surprised if you find it as easy as the B2000/2200/2600 swaps as far as finding bolt on parts.
I did a B2000 with at series 5 engine, and it was fairly straight forward.
But there is alot of room in all Pickups, and the transplant of a complete engine and TM is fairly easy.
Good luck.
I think the B2300 is really a Ford, and i will be surprised if you find it as easy as the B2000/2200/2600 swaps as far as finding bolt on parts.
I did a B2000 with at series 5 engine, and it was fairly straight forward.
But there is alot of room in all Pickups, and the transplant of a complete engine and TM is fairly easy.
Good luck.
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#8
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Originally Posted by mazdafun
I think the B2300 is really a Ford
#9
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Finally got time to work on the project today. Harvested the powerplant for the "REPU". Started pulling the drivetrain from the truck, but I broke my OTC ps pulley removal tool. That sucka's frozen on there good
#11
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Power steering pump pulley from the truck. I have a tool made by OTC for removing them. They're pressed on, but this one's corroded on too. I sheared all the threads inside the puller when I gronked down too hard
#12
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Got the rotary in the truck today. Not quite sure how this is going to work quite yet.
Let me explain that this is my first cross-vehicle transplant. I've changed out engines, swapped in engines from the same model (ones that bolt right in, i.e. 13bt in a convertible, etc) but never like this. It'll be a learning experience I guess.
SO. As it is right now, the transmission's just sitting on the crossmember, and the block is sitting on the frame. The crossmember in front is PART of the suspension. Damn twin I-beam...
Initial thoughts are that it's going to take some finess to get this to fit quite right. I think what I'll start with is fabricating a new transmission crossmember, and bolt it up such that the shifter is in the same place. Duh, right?
Then, once the transmission's bolted up, I can lift on the engine until I get it in the same plane as the rear end. Thankfully mazda left me a little flat spot on top of the engine that's perfectly parallel with the e-shaft, so I can align it up easily. Then I'll fabricate up an engine mount, weld it up, bolt the motor in, and.... then I'm stuck.
I think I want to go the easy way out with this one. I'm pretty burned out on wiring right now. I did the whole megasquirt thing with my turbo convertible, and I don't want to go down that road again. I think it's time for this guy to step into new territory.
Carburetors.
I've never dealt with them before. I stayed FAR away, actually. Old cars came in the shop, I'd pass the buck to one of the old guys. But I think it's time for a carb on this 6 port 13b! It'll clean up everything so much, and no wiring!!!!!!!!
One thing though. I don't know **** about carburetors! I hope someone can help me with selection at least. I searched, and I see a bunch of words like IDA, DHLA, so on and so on. I just don't know which one to choose!
What I'm looking for is simplicity, and budget-friendly. I couldn't care less about power, and if it involves some fabrication, I'm ok with that. As long as it's on the low buck side and will get the truck running, I'm down.
I think it's time to go snap some pictures, but it's dark right now. I'll have to get some more when the sun comes out again. This is what I have right now
Let me explain that this is my first cross-vehicle transplant. I've changed out engines, swapped in engines from the same model (ones that bolt right in, i.e. 13bt in a convertible, etc) but never like this. It'll be a learning experience I guess.
SO. As it is right now, the transmission's just sitting on the crossmember, and the block is sitting on the frame. The crossmember in front is PART of the suspension. Damn twin I-beam...
Initial thoughts are that it's going to take some finess to get this to fit quite right. I think what I'll start with is fabricating a new transmission crossmember, and bolt it up such that the shifter is in the same place. Duh, right?
Then, once the transmission's bolted up, I can lift on the engine until I get it in the same plane as the rear end. Thankfully mazda left me a little flat spot on top of the engine that's perfectly parallel with the e-shaft, so I can align it up easily. Then I'll fabricate up an engine mount, weld it up, bolt the motor in, and.... then I'm stuck.
I think I want to go the easy way out with this one. I'm pretty burned out on wiring right now. I did the whole megasquirt thing with my turbo convertible, and I don't want to go down that road again. I think it's time for this guy to step into new territory.
Carburetors.
I've never dealt with them before. I stayed FAR away, actually. Old cars came in the shop, I'd pass the buck to one of the old guys. But I think it's time for a carb on this 6 port 13b! It'll clean up everything so much, and no wiring!!!!!!!!
One thing though. I don't know **** about carburetors! I hope someone can help me with selection at least. I searched, and I see a bunch of words like IDA, DHLA, so on and so on. I just don't know which one to choose!
What I'm looking for is simplicity, and budget-friendly. I couldn't care less about power, and if it involves some fabrication, I'm ok with that. As long as it's on the low buck side and will get the truck running, I'm down.
I think it's time to go snap some pictures, but it's dark right now. I'll have to get some more when the sun comes out again. This is what I have right now
#13
i honestly think u would be better off with efi no cold start issues better gas millage pedal response etc etc
carbs are a pita. but theres lots of different carbs for diff aplications sounds like u have lotszof reading to do u could contact robert at rotaryshack he seems to help out alot and has years of experince.
carbs are a pita. but theres lots of different carbs for diff aplications sounds like u have lotszof reading to do u could contact robert at rotaryshack he seems to help out alot and has years of experince.
#14
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From: Goose Creek, SC
That's a 26 year old ecu and wiring harness. I had nothing but issues with my 88 convertible because of it, which is exactly why I ditched it all and went with a megasquirt. It's simple, but damn is it time-intensive.
I figured a decent carburetor on it would at least alleviate some of the overall headache of getting the engine in the truck, and getting it to at least run. Then, later on down the line I can go back to efi if I don't like the carb.
I think I'll do a RB 6-port manifold with a Holley 4bbl. I also need an old header to chop and modify. The stock manifold is causing clearance issues.
I figured a decent carburetor on it would at least alleviate some of the overall headache of getting the engine in the truck, and getting it to at least run. Then, later on down the line I can go back to efi if I don't like the carb.
I think I'll do a RB 6-port manifold with a Holley 4bbl. I also need an old header to chop and modify. The stock manifold is causing clearance issues.
#15
A carb is much easier, you will only need 4 or 5 wires for the whole engine and
some low pressure plumbing for the carb. You will need a low pressure fuel
pump as well or a good return regulator that can go down to 6 psi or so and
keep the stock fuel pump.
You should look into the RB setup for the 13B you have. Isn't the GSL-SE a 4 port
13B? I may be mistaken, I'm not a 13B guru at all. Check out RB Holley setup
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...its/18017.html
some low pressure plumbing for the carb. You will need a low pressure fuel
pump as well or a good return regulator that can go down to 6 psi or so and
keep the stock fuel pump.
You should look into the RB setup for the 13B you have. Isn't the GSL-SE a 4 port
13B? I may be mistaken, I'm not a 13B guru at all. Check out RB Holley setup
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...its/18017.html
#16
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The GSL-SE was in fact the first 6 port rotary in an Rx7. It definitely has 5/6th port actuators. Not that big of a deal though, I can live without low end torque. Even then, it looks as if I were to go with a dellorto 48 I can get an upper intake manifold. That will allow me to keep the stock lower intake manifold. Then I can use the air pump to actuate the aux ports.
Or I can be cheap (yep, going to do that ) and get this holley intake, and grab a holley 600 to slap on top. Then, like you said above, get a low pressure fuel system and I'll be golden!
Is there anything you have to do to the holley, or will it work as is?
Just saw this one...
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...its/18045.html
There's no way I'm spending that kind of cash on a truck this ugly..
Or I can be cheap (yep, going to do that ) and get this holley intake, and grab a holley 600 to slap on top. Then, like you said above, get a low pressure fuel system and I'll be golden!
Is there anything you have to do to the holley, or will it work as is?
Just saw this one...
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...its/18045.html
There's no way I'm spending that kind of cash on a truck this ugly..
Last edited by AGreen; 11-15-10 at 07:26 PM. Reason: damn!! racing beat's expensive!
#17
I don't know the details but you can get it running fine with a non-RB prepped
holley. I've seen others do it no problem.
One thing to note is you either have to add a way to get the oil from the OMP
and inject it into the carb or premix. A lot of folks add nipples to the float bowls
and connect the OMP lines up there.
Do a search on holley and you'll find lots of discussions on it.
holley. I've seen others do it no problem.
One thing to note is you either have to add a way to get the oil from the OMP
and inject it into the carb or premix. A lot of folks add nipples to the float bowls
and connect the OMP lines up there.
Do a search on holley and you'll find lots of discussions on it.
#19
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Now I'm considering a couple more options.
Here's the dilemma. The frame is U-shaped right where the engine sits. Perfect for an inline 4 or V engine, since the bottom of the block and oil pan are pretty narrow. The rotary is fat and round. See how high it sits?
Option 1) Body lift the cab and bed an inch or 2 for clearance. Probably the easiest option, but I HATE body-lifted trucks. However, it'll be slight and might not be noticeable.... Definitely easy though.
Option 2) Remove bed and cab and place the engine on the frame where it fits. Then go back and notch/cut out areas to allow the cab and bed to fit. Then make some funky linkages for the shifter. This would be great too, since the driveshaft can be much shorter.
Still haven't seen anything on which carburetor to buy though. Anyone got any advice? I'd like to get a holley or something that'll fit on the above mentioned manifold. I'm just unsure as to which holley to look for, and if I'll need to modify it (as far as jetting goes, not concerned with the OMP for now).
Here's the dilemma. The frame is U-shaped right where the engine sits. Perfect for an inline 4 or V engine, since the bottom of the block and oil pan are pretty narrow. The rotary is fat and round. See how high it sits?
Option 1) Body lift the cab and bed an inch or 2 for clearance. Probably the easiest option, but I HATE body-lifted trucks. However, it'll be slight and might not be noticeable.... Definitely easy though.
Option 2) Remove bed and cab and place the engine on the frame where it fits. Then go back and notch/cut out areas to allow the cab and bed to fit. Then make some funky linkages for the shifter. This would be great too, since the driveshaft can be much shorter.
Still haven't seen anything on which carburetor to buy though. Anyone got any advice? I'd like to get a holley or something that'll fit on the above mentioned manifold. I'm just unsure as to which holley to look for, and if I'll need to modify it (as far as jetting goes, not concerned with the OMP for now).
#21
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Unfortunately I got told by the boss that it had to get completed now, or go away. So I sold the drivetrain to a local who was going to put it in a b2600. That's a much better home for it anyways, it belongs in a real Mazda. The pickup I sold too, and scrapped the rest of the metal. I've been keeping in contact with the guy who bought the SE drivetrain, and I'll get pictures up as soon as he sends me some.
#22
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From: WOOZ - WOOZ Visalia, CA-CAFB, SC
booooooooo, lol it's ok bro.
sorry to hear about your loss.
one day when you get your own place do it again, of course your donor car and trans car may be different, but do it again, get back on that horse. Viva la rotortrans.
sorry to hear about your loss.
one day when you get your own place do it again, of course your donor car and trans car may be different, but do it again, get back on that horse. Viva la rotortrans.
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