WSU has started... Pullman people unite!
03-10-08, 01:32 AM
#176
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no, we haven't had any planned monthly meets or anything like that. But we can definitely try to get people together when ever you swing by. If I have a running 7 at that time, (it's hit and miss with me 
) I will be able to bring my 7, if not I can still make it with the g/fs or my backup car. When do you think you will be swinging by again?
) I will be able to bring my 7, if not I can still make it with the g/fs or my backup car. When do you think you will be swinging by again?
03-10-08, 02:52 AM
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I agree on the whole meet thing. It would be fun me thinks.
On another note, I'm starting on my removal of my engine tomorrow. Looking into renting an engine hoist. Think I'll need a engine stand as well to disassemble the engine? I the haynes manual and previous threads to help me along the removal and such, so i think i should be good there.
Should be fun, I'm looking forward to it
On another note, I'm starting on my removal of my engine tomorrow. Looking into renting an engine hoist. Think I'll need a engine stand as well to disassemble the engine? I the haynes manual and previous threads to help me along the removal and such, so i think i should be good there.
Should be fun, I'm looking forward to it
03-10-08, 11:19 AM
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Well ... scrim is down (blown engine), I'm down (fresh rebuild wearing in for 2000 miles), one of the other persons I couldn't get his phone number because im not quire sure he speaks english hehe... But I will try to get the group all rounded up.
But I will try to get the group all rounded up.
03-11-08, 10:48 PM
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Well when i came home, this is what I saw... I nearly started crying....
But now I have the radiator, throttle body, 90% of wiring, 90% of all other lines, and the hood removed.
I do have a question, though...
I was planning on removing the engine w/o the transmission. It seems, though, that one of the bolts that holds the transmission to the engine also holds the large "eye" loops used to hoist the engine out.. So do i remove the bolt and not use that hoist place? or am I missing something else entirely?
But now I have the radiator, throttle body, 90% of wiring, 90% of all other lines, and the hood removed.
I do have a question, though...
I was planning on removing the engine w/o the transmission. It seems, though, that one of the bolts that holds the transmission to the engine also holds the large "eye" loops used to hoist the engine out.. So do i remove the bolt and not use that hoist place? or am I missing something else entirely?
03-13-08, 01:03 AM
#181
dont kill the cones
i usually just pull everything out together its so mush easier to line up and do all the bolts out of the car than in and its not too much work to get everything out just drain your trans or you get all that nasty oil everywhere =)
03-13-08, 01:50 AM
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Hey bud! Looks like you are really starting to make some progress! Yeah, you can use those hooks to use as engine lift points that is what they are there for.
Just for further .... information, it would have been a lot easier, just to unbolt the main things, such as engine mounts, transmission mounts, exhaust and anything that is connected to the car from the engine, and then just unplug the wireing harness from the ECU. Then pull the whole engine out with the whole wireing harness still connected to the engine, injectors, water pump, and everything. THEN you can unbolt the UIM and everything else with MUCH easier access to the hard to reach bolts when the engine is OUTSIDE of the engine bay. MUCH easier, ask me how I know, I did it like you have mulitple times, and the first time I did it the easy way I wanted to smack myself for doing it the hard way so many times! haha
But anyways, things are coming along fine. Take your time, at this pace it doesn't look like you will be able to actually completely take the engine apart. (by the end of spring break) Did you get a flywheel removal socket? the official size is .... huge haha. Also! NOW since it looks like the engine is still in the car connected to the transmission and such, you should take the front main bolt off! a LOT easier to do that while it is in the car, the engine won't flex/rotate/move while you have it in gear and such. (and while you torque on it) You are most likely going to need a cheater bar or a VERY strong air gun. If that doesn't work you will need to heat up the bolt till it begins to glow red. From the factory they have some loctite on there that can really be hard to get past sometimes.
Hope that help!
Laters bud!
Again take your time and have fun!
~Tweak
(sorry that your 7 had stuff stacked on it, but wow you have a clean garage! )
(edit) BTW, you didn't need to remove the radiator. (and omg you're going to hate having AC haha!)
Just for further .... information, it would have been a lot easier, just to unbolt the main things, such as engine mounts, transmission mounts, exhaust and anything that is connected to the car from the engine, and then just unplug the wireing harness from the ECU. Then pull the whole engine out with the whole wireing harness still connected to the engine, injectors, water pump, and everything. THEN you can unbolt the UIM and everything else with MUCH easier access to the hard to reach bolts when the engine is OUTSIDE of the engine bay. MUCH easier, ask me how I know, I did it like you have mulitple times, and the first time I did it the easy way I wanted to smack myself for doing it the hard way so many times! haha
But anyways, things are coming along fine. Take your time, at this pace it doesn't look like you will be able to actually completely take the engine apart. (by the end of spring break) Did you get a flywheel removal socket? the official size is .... huge haha. Also! NOW since it looks like the engine is still in the car connected to the transmission and such, you should take the front main bolt off! a LOT easier to do that while it is in the car, the engine won't flex/rotate/move while you have it in gear and such. (and while you torque on it) You are most likely going to need a cheater bar or a VERY strong air gun. If that doesn't work you will need to heat up the bolt till it begins to glow red. From the factory they have some loctite on there that can really be hard to get past sometimes.
Hope that help!
Laters bud!
Again take your time and have fun!
~Tweak
(sorry that your 7 had stuff stacked on it, but wow you have a clean garage! )
(edit) BTW, you didn't need to remove the radiator. (and omg you're going to hate having AC haha!)
03-13-08, 12:03 PM
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Yeah... after taking most of that stuff off, I read an online guide to taking the engine out and realized how much easier it could have been. Oh well, too late now. Just means I will know better for next time (And I'm fairly certain there will be a next time)
I'm planning on getting the engine out today, after i unbolt the exhaust, which I hear will be fun...
more pics will be up later probably.
I'm planning on getting the engine out today, after i unbolt the exhaust, which I hear will be fun...
more pics will be up later probably.
03-13-08, 12:28 PM
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Yeah... after taking most of that stuff off, I read an online guide to taking the engine out and realized how much easier it could have been. Oh well, too late now. Just means I will know better for next time (And I'm fairly certain there will be a next time)
I'm planning on getting the engine out today, after i unbolt the exhaust, which I hear will be fun...
more pics will be up later probably.
I'm planning on getting the engine out today, after i unbolt the exhaust, which I hear will be fun...
more pics will be up later probably.
03-13-08, 01:31 PM
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Well I have an 18" socket wrench, and I'm pretty sure I know what main bolt you are talking about that I should take off while the engine is in the car (19mm, center of the pulley directly under where the fan connects?), but when I start to turn it, the engine turns as well. The front is on 2 jack stands, e-brake is on, and it's in reverse...
Am I doing something wrong? Or am I looking at the wrong bolt?
Am I doing something wrong? Or am I looking at the wrong bolt?
03-13-08, 01:45 PM
#188
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That is the correct bolt... as far as I remember, the only 19.. hmmm the only thing I could think if ebrake is on and it is in gear .... and its slipping.... your causing your clutch to slip O.o haha I wouldn't under estimate that bolt it is certainly possible.
I have heard ... that if your tool is long enough to reach the ground you can connect it to the front main bolt, then have the other end touching the ground so that it can't go anywhere, THEN jump your starter so it turns and unscrews the bolt.
When you say it turns when you try to undo it, do you mean it have a little bit of slack where you can kinda turn it before it stops, or you can turn it ..like freely completely rotating the internals?
I have heard ... that if your tool is long enough to reach the ground you can connect it to the front main bolt, then have the other end touching the ground so that it can't go anywhere, THEN jump your starter so it turns and unscrews the bolt.
When you say it turns when you try to undo it, do you mean it have a little bit of slack where you can kinda turn it before it stops, or you can turn it ..like freely completely rotating the internals?
03-13-08, 02:01 PM
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I can turn it, like freely. It pulls back a little when i let up on the wrench, but it keeps turning if I keep twisting. ...As in rotating the internals (I can hear them turning).
The cranking with the wrench on the ground seems like an interesting idea, but I'll probably pass on that. Mostly cuz I don't think my tool is that long. I think right now I'm going to focus on getting the engine out and getting as much off of it as I can before heading back to pullman.
The cranking with the wrench on the ground seems like an interesting idea, but I'll probably pass on that. Mostly cuz I don't think my tool is that long. I think right now I'm going to focus on getting the engine out and getting as much off of it as I can before heading back to pullman.
03-14-08, 12:14 AM
#190
dont kill the cones
you could try yo put a wrench or a big screw driver in the top axcess port in the back iron and catch it between the weight on the flywheel and the motor itself
03-14-08, 12:32 AM
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Ok now I have a new problem. I decided that the main nut is going to have to wait, I only have the engine lift until noon tomorrow.
We got everything clear, unhooked everything that needs to be. Took out 4 bolts that hold the transmission (2 on the driver's side, 2 on the Passenger side), starter motor is out. We started to lift the engine, but it won't dissengage from the transmission, it's clearing the mounting bolts, but it still won't give. It's holding up in the lower driver's side.
Any ideas?
We got everything clear, unhooked everything that needs to be. Took out 4 bolts that hold the transmission (2 on the driver's side, 2 on the Passenger side), starter motor is out. We started to lift the engine, but it won't dissengage from the transmission, it's clearing the mounting bolts, but it still won't give. It's holding up in the lower driver's side.
Any ideas?
03-14-08, 01:17 AM
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well did you get the TINY bolt that is under the starter? The start has 2 bolts holding it on, one going through the starter transmission and rear plate, and the other on the other side going into the back of the transmission. UNDER that, under the starter( or behind it how ever you are looking at it, is another BIG bolt holding the transmission onto the rear engine plate.
(sorry for the delay, was outside taking my s5 t2 engine apart.)
(sorry for the delay, was outside taking my s5 t2 engine apart.)
03-14-08, 02:01 AM
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there are little "collars" or somewhat of a hollow pin on either the transmission or engine that mate up with the opposite one... maybe one of those is stuck? could it just be you have the engine tilted with the transmission like this E\/T making it get stuck? once you have it out of the engine mounts, it should really just ... fly out... right off the transmission. Putting it back is the annoying part...
03-14-08, 02:13 AM
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Well we're going to have another go at it tomorrow morning, so I'll let you know how it goes. Perhaps I just have to wiggle it a little bit more...
03-14-08, 11:20 AM
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We has engine out
Turns out I just needed to play with it and wiggle it a bit and then it came right out. Now I just need to take it apart, lol.
But now... We want to get an engine stand, but have no idea how or where we would mount the engine to it. I know Pineapple racing offers an adapter, but is it necessary?
Turns out I just needed to play with it and wiggle it a bit and then it came right out. Now I just need to take it apart, lol.
But now... We want to get an engine stand, but have no idea how or where we would mount the engine to it. I know Pineapple racing offers an adapter, but is it necessary?
Last edited by Scrims; 03-14-08 at 11:33 AM.
03-14-08, 01:16 PM
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You do NOT need an engine stand. I have done .... wow I donno 10 engines now (tore down) and 2 rebuilds all without an engine stand. Most the time I would either put it on a milk crate, or small tire when I rebuilt, but tearing apart you can do it on 3 or 4 layers of cardboard on the ground. Buuuttt if you want to use an engine stand you can.
Buuuttt if you want to use an engine stand you can.
03-14-08, 06:45 PM
#198
dont kill the cones
i do all mine on a milk crate with a hole cut out in the center for the e shaft. and if you are rebuilding it your self i would suggest getting a video from atkins or pineapple it is so much easier and takes all the guessing and supposeing out of the process
03-14-08, 10:52 PM
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Good news all. I got all the way back to pullman on my fresh rebuild. 500 miles so far, so I think I will slowly start going past 4000 rpm. Strongest engine I have ever EVER had, and I am pretty proud of it. Now I just can't wait to get this s5 turbo done and boosted with my e11v2!