FD ignitor running FC coils, the leading coil is powered up by a MSD 6al box. Aaron I had the msd burn out once before. You may want to check the fuse that powers it, its in the S-4 block fuse thing. If it looks good, just wire up the leading coil like an oe setup. Key on power and the signal wire from the ignitor. Sound like you may need to hire for an hour or so, to see if we can work through this. I work for good beer, I can bring my growler Black Raven is down the hill. Good luck

 

Lets try the obvious thing first. Place a leading spark plug on top of the motor, turn the engine to key on engine off. Yank the CAS and spin the gear, by hand. You should see spark.

 

Aaron just got hit by a bmw, now your trying to electrocute him? lol.

 

yeah the whole bmw thing.... lucky to not be in a wheel chair today. glad i can lol about it afterwards but it was a scary situation, lets just say I pay attention to crosswalks now.

Really whatever time/effort you wanna put forward Chris, I appreciate the offer to help and I have plenty of beer money and money for your time if that is seriously something your willing to do I will pm you my cell phone # ps my favorite beer is Black Raven (second sight strong scotch ale)

 

Did you guys get this figured out? I'm curious as to what it was.

 

thanks,

its not really figured out.

Chris came by and we (Chris) checked the ignition system and things were working, then we noticed my FPR started showing low fuel pressure. Now I'm going to be looking into why the fuel pressure is not there

 

My brand new areomotive fpr with a used liquid filld gauge doesnt wrk. I get ZERO psi? we are in the same boat my friend..... are u getting 12volts to primary injector clips? check that, cuz im gettn 12volts but no fuel what so ever, bottom plugs are dry.

 

did you pull out the fuel filter and bypass it with some 5/16 hose?. I suspect your filter is plugged up, since you can hear/feel the fuel pump running

 

^exactly what we discussed. I have not had a chance, I'm going to get the hose and filter some time this week and hopefully test it this weekend
As for Jason's question IDK, it appears to be an issue with no fuel being pumped from the tank to the engine. When Chris and I were checking things out the fuel return line from the 2ndrys was dry, leaving us to think that fuel is not being pumped.

 

Had SAME problem.. Turned out i wired pump wrong and i was pumping backwards.. Of course mine's an in line pump and yours may be in tank which is tuff to mess up.
Good luck
- Chris

 

the pump has been wired correctly since 2007.

It turns on and off, and up until recently pumped fuel to the engine and could be measured on the FPR.

 

so idk guys, I have not really been working on the car much, last time i touched it was in Nov 2011, Chris and I were testing things and trying to get the thing to start.

Today i went out to uncover it and make sure it was not molding inside blahblahblah and I got the idea to start the engine up. The ****** started up like 3rd crank over, it still will not idle at a normal rpm, right now the engine wants to idle at 2,500, the exhaust sounded a little funky so i was checking the commander. The injector duty % was around 20%, and I went to check the pressure regulator which me and Chris had been adjusting last, anyways, with the engine started the FPR was maxed out past 60psi, so I adjusted it down to 43psi and this caused the idle to go from 2,700rpm to just over 4,000rpm.

 

any ideas guys ?

 

WAY rich... could be high fuel pressure. Check TPS adjustment once warmed up.

re-check timing after TPS adjustment.

I'd check thermal wax pellet adjustment on the throttle body... is throttle stop (under idle speed adjustment screw) bottomed out or "floating" when car running and warmed up?

 

well thanks, yeah i'm aware its too rich.

any ideas, the engine will still not idle below 3-4k rpms.

At this point I'm wanting to drive the car in 2012.... Any shops or anyone i could trust to work out the last 3% of the build and move on?

 

Is the throttle stop against the idle speed screw when running or is it listed off? I'm curious if your throttle body's thermal pellet is stuck and holding your high idle.

 

Have you verified your trailing coils are firing?

 

I'd also check your thermosensor to make sure it's reading correctly... reading COLD all the time would cause a rich condition. If you refer to page 81 of the s5 FSM, there is a testing procedure for the sensor... I've also copied the page and attached it. You can check it while still installed.

 

iirc the thermal pellet has been removed, since i have owned the car it has never had a high idle when it was cold.
The engine has always started up @ 1,000rpms under warm/cold/hot and super frikkin cold temperatures.

 

trailing coils are not currently connected. but yes they have been verified sending spark

 

there is no fluid in the radiator or the engine. I drained it this winter because i could never get the engine to run properly.

 

Have you hooked them up to see if that makes any difference?
IIRC they fire at idle.

 

Something about this just really gets me... If all else is the same then it either has the injectors in opposite spots for fuel, or it has a vacuum leak somewhere. Otherwise something is damaged on that throttle body.

 

Jesus, yeah im with ya, something seems not quite right, it is getting closer the more i narrow down variables.
I did some minor repairs to the fuel pump wiring and set the fuel pressure to 40psi static and this has helped the starting of the engine tremendously.

Still has a very high idle....

Here is a video capture i made today of a cold start.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOYA8MXJ0nw

 

Aaron pm Steve Kan, and get his input. He tuned the car twice for me. There is no thermal pellet and all the emissions warm up throttle body stuff was deleted. Even up a cold start up it should go over 1500 rpm or so.,