Turbo FB re-build thread
#26
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1 bar boost
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From: Seattle, Washington
Yes I'm f'ing serious about the timing... thanks for loving the build tho
it has some sort of FD pulley, maybe Chris knows the brand or what its off of. Anyways, Chris scribed the timing marks on the serpentine pulley and made me this little drawing
here is the actual pulley
when i follow this diagram the engine will not start, with testing different positions and twisting the CAS the motor will start and run somewhere between 2,500 rpm and 6,500 rpm @ +30-35 degrees timing (leading and trailing) which is verified by the pfc commander.
it has some sort of FD pulley, maybe Chris knows the brand or what its off of. Anyways, Chris scribed the timing marks on the serpentine pulley and made me this little drawing
here is the actual pulley
when i follow this diagram the engine will not start, with testing different positions and twisting the CAS the motor will start and run somewhere between 2,500 rpm and 6,500 rpm @ +30-35 degrees timing (leading and trailing) which is verified by the pfc commander.
#27
Are you sure the pulley is oriented the correct way? Is it keyed so it only goes on one way? Are you sure you have the CAS gear in the proper spot when you are stabbing it in?
Also, I think you are readying the timing backwards. Assuming chris's drawing is correct, the mark you have it on in the last picture would be 25 degrees ATDC
Also, I think you are readying the timing backwards. Assuming chris's drawing is correct, the mark you have it on in the last picture would be 25 degrees ATDC
#28
Reference the key in the drawing to orient the timing marks. i.e. the one just clockwise of the key will be -5 or 5 degrees btdc. Should just set leading on the 5 atdc mark and stab the dizzy, if that doesn't work the rotors may be in the wrong place or something along those lines, if that is possible. not really sure as I have never rebuilt a motor,.
#32
Also the pulley kit is
Guitar Junkie serpentine pulley kit he was selling them about 5 years ago, unfortunately I believe he passed on around the same time. It should be a copy of the Mazda speed one.
Guitar Junkie serpentine pulley kit he was selling them about 5 years ago, unfortunately I believe he passed on around the same time. It should be a copy of the Mazda speed one.
#34
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1 bar boost
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From: Seattle, Washington
is this common thought between everyone ?
personally I was observing this reference from a looking at the motor from the front of the vehicle. Hornbm it seems as if this is looking at the pulley from the back side is how your doing it. still confused here but glad to be getting new ideas and stuff to try.
#37
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1 bar boost
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From: Seattle, Washington
thanks for the help with looking at the reference, makes much more sense now, that said its still not starting up. I don't know what I'm doing wrong now?
the BMW ran into me!!! haha good thing i'm like a CAT and landed on my feet, or have 9 lives i forget which.
ps I wanted to punch the driver right in the solar plex!
the BMW ran into me!!! haha good thing i'm like a CAT and landed on my feet, or have 9 lives i forget which.
ps I wanted to punch the driver right in the solar plex!
#44
If i remember correctly you pull the plugs from front rotor, turn the engine over by hand till you hear the compression come from the plug holes. that should be the right face. and I don't know the exact procedure of getting tdc but you turn till you see the the seal dead center of the trailing (top) plug hole, make a mark under the marker, then turn the rotor till seal is dead center of leading plug hole mark it and then theres some mesureing. I'll see if I can find the info. this is just from memory, I have bad short term memory
edit: Here you go, so my info's a little off. btw. found this link in your other thread but you said you had problems with calculations. well I'm fair at math so do the mesurements I'll do the math.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topi...rmal-question/
Also maybe try using a stock pully to see if the marks you have line up with the stock one???
also timing lights are easy. once the cas is in close to tdc only snug it down but make sure you can move it right or left., you put the clamps on the battery terminals. I expect you where to put red and black clamps. then place the clamp on the front leading plugwire, start the car point the light at the crank and turn the cas till mark lines up with the pointer. simple
edit: Here you go, so my info's a little off. btw. found this link in your other thread but you said you had problems with calculations. well I'm fair at math so do the mesurements I'll do the math.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topi...rmal-question/
Also maybe try using a stock pully to see if the marks you have line up with the stock one???
also timing lights are easy. once the cas is in close to tdc only snug it down but make sure you can move it right or left., you put the clamps on the battery terminals. I expect you where to put red and black clamps. then place the clamp on the front leading plugwire, start the car point the light at the crank and turn the cas till mark lines up with the pointer. simple
#45
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1 bar boost
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I did the whole thing where i find the apex seal in the trailing hole, then spin the pulley so i can see the apex seal in the leading hole. marked both locations where the apex seal was visible in the spark plug holes. divided that measurement in half and made a mark on the string, then i put the string back on the pulley and found where the half measurement lands on the pulley (which happen to be the 3rd mark on the pulley) Then I removed the cap on the cas, removed the cas, lined the cas up to the mark, stabbed the cas again, lined up the gear on top of the cas so it was perfectly lined up. Went to start it and nothing. turning over @ 175rpms and never once showed any hint of starting up.