Well I decided to put my fc down in last december for a whole new build. This will be round 2 considering its the second time i have stripped my car completely, but this time for my cage build,wich i have no experience in.

Thanks to a good friend of mine that has some experience in welding we got the main hoop base plates in ,main hoop and halo all welded in. We even got all that in with just using a grinder (very time consuming) to notch the pipe lol.

I just found out that harbor freight sells a tube notcher for 50bucks! gna pick that up tomorrow and that will make the fab work go alot faster.

If anyone has any experience in cage building i could use a helping hand as my buddy woks alot and kinda hard for me to stay motovated and not get distracted by my other projects ect....

 

Save a few bucks on me
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html...mages/20_c.jpg

 

I printed that out and bought the pipe notcher today and it was only 43bucks, thanks man ...

I cant wait to get this dam car done the way i want it so i wont have to put anymore money into it and just take it to the track on weekends. I have a custom manifold im itching to try out along with my garret turbo haltech e6k ect..

 

Are you looking for any advice?

 

Yes advice is always good, especially wen this will be my first time building a cage... What wire would u use ? I have been using .030 wire with gas but a buddy of mine recomended .045 wire to get a nice puddle?

 

ER 71 with gas cover Flux core shielded .045 all position great penetration but needs larger machine to run ~26v # 280A use this at work for 3/16 to 1/2 plate

 

TooShort, where are you located? For some reason I think I've meet you in Yakima but you might be someone else lol. Anyways I ran into a guy in Naches who builds cages, he may be able to help. PM me for his info if you need it.

 

Sold the cage kit because fitment was total *** for 'A' pillar bars and halo. Had a buddy whip this 11point dom cage with some rotory flava.

 

If anyone lookn for cage work I highly reccomend shop I went to in black diamond guy does amazing welds and been doin exo cages/cages for 7yrs now.

 

Are you sure that cage will pass tech? In most racing/drifting series you need to have a bar going diagonally from the top of the main hoop to the floor and it HAS to be one piece. It all depends on your series though.

 

U knw..... I hav no clue if it will pass tech, anyone chime in with some experience? He just built it way overkill lmao!

 

Ther is 2 bars on top side of main hoop that go to the floor and they are solid 1 piece, plus ther are 2 mre bars goin frm center of hoop to rear that are 1 piece as well. He builds exo's for rock crawlers and those things roll over all the time.

I wud assume its plenty strong and way overkill

 

Forumla D 2011.


All roll cages must be based on a single Main Hoop of one (1) continuous
length of tubing with smooth continuous bends and no evidence of crimping
or wall failure. The radius of bends in the roll cage hoop (measured at
centerline of tubing) shall not be less than three (3) times the diameter of the
tubing.

7.4.6 Main Hoop:
The main roll hoop (behind the driver) shall extend the full width of the
driver/passenger compartment and shall be as near the roof as possible with a
maximum of 4 bends, totaling 180 degrees ± 10degrees.
The roll cage Main Hoop should start from the floor of the car and be attached
to the chassis/unibody via base plates as described in 7.4.12.
The Main Hoop shall incorporate:
 A diagonal lateral brace of tubing equal to the roll bar to
prevent lateral distortion of the hoop. This brace must attach to
the driver side upper corner of the main hoop, not more than six
(6) inches from the radius, and to the opposing leg, not more
than six (6) inches from the base plate.
 A horizontal brace of a tubing equal to the roll bar, installed
behind the drivers seat. This tube shall be no higher than
shoulder height and continue the full width of the main hoop,
attached to both legs.
 Either the diagonal brace or the horizontal brace must be one
continuous piece of tube, with the other attaching to it.
Any number of additional reinforcing bars, gussets or supports is
permitted within the structure of the cage.

 

Looks like your safe.

 

Oh I was looking at the top of the main hoop. It was at such a sharp angle without much of a curve that I thought it was welded and not 1 tube bent. Hard to tell in the pictures.

 

no drivers side to passenger side one piece diagonal tube. may not pass tech, will be a judgement call at each track, looks awesome though, nice build

 

And the front view

 

Read what I quoted off Tweaks post. The one piece bar from side to side can be horizontal or diag. Per FD rules which they usually base theirs off everyone elses.

 

Is that main hoop one piece? As tweak said, it looks like it isn't from the pictures.

 

yes main hoop is 1 continious piece . So I shud b good to go.

 

Wow, what kind of bender did they use to get that short of a radius bend?

 

I have seen them use the small hand operated die bender with chromoly pipe to make bends that tight.

Good looking cage.

 

Im not sure what kind of bender he used,but its super tight up ther and every where else besides the A pillar thru dash bars.

I can barely squeeze my sunroof liner in. I plan to rock all stock interior but its gna require some cutting of the plastics and me learning how to 'plastic weld'

im off early today so maybe I v
Can finish prepn cage and drop some candy paint.

 

id scope the formula d rulebook just to be sure, the rules are pretty strict on how the cage is built... i.e. door bars lol.

 

Which would be important if he was building the cage for Formula D.