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Local Shop for Molding Fenders and Painting?

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Old 10-13-10 | 07:51 PM
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CYD
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Local Shop for Molding Fenders and Painting?

I am looking for options for Molding fenders and Painting my car.

Currently the car is at a local tuning shop and I just got a quote from them on mounting Pettit +50mm fenders. They are not a specifically a body shop so any molding and painting would be else where.

I have a few questions:
Who would you recommend in the Beaverton/Portland/Hillsboro area that I could take the car and have the fenders molded and painted?

Should I have the current shop mount and BOND the fender to the car, or just have the current shop mount with rivets and the body shop bond/mold to car?

I also have a front bumper that I need mounted, do I have the current shop mount, and then a body shop pull off to prep and paint, or have a body shop mount, prep and paint? (The bumper does not work with the stock rebar. it would need to be modifed by someone too.)

Right now, I believe Mark at FD3S Engineering mentioned he knew someone that could help me with molding and/or painting, not sure if it included mounting/bonding the fenders and mounting the bumper too. Another option I have looked into is "AutoPaintingPortland.com".

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.

Trying to get input on the best practice for molding fenders:
https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/molded-fenders-906585/

Two helpful ideas came up, that ideally the shop to mold would agree or have a similar idea:
im molding mine on as well and i thought about this issue but the solution i found has been a rather expensive but great solution. for the adhesion of the fender to the steel i have used 3m panel bond 8115 which has a higher tensel strength then welding. only down side is its like 50 a tube or so and i am on my 6 tube or so for my hole kit. check my build thread out for pics. also to prevent the flexing from the widebody with the space under neith im useing 3m window weld to fill in the gaps underneth great adhersion and also when cured is very durable and prevents the fiberglass from flexing which is a big no no with molding. then for the filler to do the molding evercoat came out with this new filler called fibertech which is the strongest filler on the market being a kevlar reinforced filler. its kinda expensive at $60 a half gallon. between the steps that im takeing the fiberglass wont flex and crack let alone the body filler. as well as the fiberglass would literly break before the panel bond weld would break. panel bond is what they use now adays when you get into a crash and have to have a panel of the car replaced. the only thing that can get it off is laquor thinnner when its still workable and then opean flame when cured. so as long as you know how to use the products and how to apply them fears of molding kits in is a thing of the past.
and

my steps were......cut two inches out of the outer quarter leaving the inner quarter panel there. then i straightend the inner out to wrap the new outer and slit it to roll correctly, i welded it all together to keep body stregth and seam sealed all the gaps which were very few. after that i sprayed gatorguard bedliner up to where the flares bolt to keep the elements from damaging or rusting the new modifications. next i ground the body where the flare touched and glued with 3m two part epoxy. i riveted the flares while the epoxy was wet so i got great squeeze and then smeared the rest with a puddy spreader. after the expoxy dried for a couple of days i ground it smooth and applied fiberglass mat to eliminate straight line cracking. next applied the kitty hair fiberglass and then regrind. last is body filler for the finish look. after i primed the car and blocked three times. then paint. i also built the lower to be part of the side skirt . i like it removable not fully molded, and eventually thr car will have damage to the sideskirt and i dont want to paint half of the car or blend. i can just pull it off and repair.
Thanks,

~CYD
Old 10-14-10 | 08:39 PM
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DO NOT MOLD ANYTHING TO YOUR CAR!
I have a fc with molded fnders,bumpers,over fndrs and skirts and its a pain to do any kind of work to your car.

Keep it practical and just have a shop mount your kit and "DO NOT MOLD IT"
Old 10-18-10 | 05:52 PM
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its desaster waiting to happen. it does look slick in some applications, but soon as you do it you'll eather have a parkinglot mishap (someone hit and run mine) or need to revome to fix somthing. (was a pita to replace headlights) both happened when I moled my lancer within like 4 months. Just do a good job on mounting it so the body lines arn't ****.
Old 10-18-10 | 07:31 PM
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i have to agree, my wifes car is molded, and i built a molded kit for a friend a while back.... I you ever plan on changing, upgrading or god forbid a shopping cart comes your way you are going to hate life.. I was all about it till i owned one... But it does look damn good when done right
Old 10-19-10 | 02:03 PM
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CYD's Avatar
CYD
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From: Oregon
Nobody can recommend any shop for painting or helping with the bumper?

I am still looking for a place that can paint my car. I am hoping for a full paint job, not simply a respray and blend.

~CYD
Old 10-21-10 | 02:52 AM
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From: Philomath Oregon.The five whole blocks of it!
NW auto fab here in corvallis (well tangent) i know the guys personally and if i ever get my car ready for paint, its where i am going... They are awesome, straight up pros in every way and very reasonable price wise... I will try to find the number for ya

They do everything from basic shoots to full restos, glass work to carbon work... They are my body and paint heroes! but otherwise i am not of any use in this area.... Call fd3s engineering and maybe they can direct you to a place?? (not sure if they do it or if they just have in the past )

Last edited by joemaddox; 10-21-10 at 02:55 AM.
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