Trouble Removing Upper Intake Manifold
09-13-11, 11:35 AM
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Trouble Removing Upper Intake Manifold
Car is a '88 10th AE Turbo II
Rough idling, and wants to die sometimes during normal driving and when it's idling i can HEAR a high pitch whistling sound coming from the rear of the manifold. Tested with choke cleaner and the car started to bog when I hit the crevice between the upper runners and the lower manifold.
I'm trying to replace my intake manifold gaskets and vacuum piping. I removed all the piping and hoses I could see from the upper runners but I'm still getting hung up on something.
It feels like a hose is tugging on it from the back and I can FEEL it with my hand but I can't physically see it. It's a real pain in the *** trying to get underneath there with a pair of pliers.
Does anyone on here have a write up I can be direct to on how to remove it? The car is stock other than the air pump being removed and all the vacuum ports/piping are factory (already have broken a few trying to pull them off).
I'll try and take pictues tonight once I get home from work.
Rough idling, and wants to die sometimes during normal driving and when it's idling i can HEAR a high pitch whistling sound coming from the rear of the manifold. Tested with choke cleaner and the car started to bog when I hit the crevice between the upper runners and the lower manifold.
I'm trying to replace my intake manifold gaskets and vacuum piping. I removed all the piping and hoses I could see from the upper runners but I'm still getting hung up on something.
It feels like a hose is tugging on it from the back and I can FEEL it with my hand but I can't physically see it. It's a real pain in the *** trying to get underneath there with a pair of pliers.
Does anyone on here have a write up I can be direct to on how to remove it? The car is stock other than the air pump being removed and all the vacuum ports/piping are factory (already have broken a few trying to pull them off).
I'll try and take pictues tonight once I get home from work.
09-13-11, 04:55 PM
#2
You're probably needing to remove the coolant line that goes between the throttle body and the top of the rear iron. It's difficult to see, and even more difficult to take off or replace. I always buy a new one so I can cut the other one free upon removal of the UIM. When you go to put it all back together, lube up the new hose, clamp it to the rear iron first, then place the UIM on and slide it onto the TB. The portion on the TB is much easier to reach than the connection on the rear iron.
09-14-11, 01:22 AM
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Well just finished tonight, I decided to just loop the coolant hoes from the pump straight to the rear iron.
All I noticed from bypassing the coolant from the idle control valve and throttle body is a longer warm up, but its over 90 degrees here and that doesn't affect the car since florida never gets below freezing.
Checked with choke cleaner again and now no leak but i'm still getting a rough idle. It's higher this time too, from 700-750 rough idle before to 850-900 rough idle now.
When I drive the car too now it has horrible mini backfire-ish pops when I shift or let off the thottle in gear. Now I'm not sure if this is because I accidentally broke the O2 wire and then I spliced it to repair it? It did it before the job but nowhere near as it does now.
As for the idle I'm beginning to hink its the idle control vlalve going bad or dirty, or another balbe that has to deal with vacuum because my vacuum is doing the same exact thing as before, dancing between 10 in/Hg and 15 in/Hg at idle.
Blah, I just wanna pay someone at this point to get this fixed, I want her to purr at 750 like I see everyone elses on the youtube videos
All I noticed from bypassing the coolant from the idle control valve and throttle body is a longer warm up, but its over 90 degrees here and that doesn't affect the car since florida never gets below freezing.
Checked with choke cleaner again and now no leak but i'm still getting a rough idle. It's higher this time too, from 700-750 rough idle before to 850-900 rough idle now.
When I drive the car too now it has horrible mini backfire-ish pops when I shift or let off the thottle in gear. Now I'm not sure if this is because I accidentally broke the O2 wire and then I spliced it to repair it? It did it before the job but nowhere near as it does now.
As for the idle I'm beginning to hink its the idle control vlalve going bad or dirty, or another balbe that has to deal with vacuum because my vacuum is doing the same exact thing as before, dancing between 10 in/Hg and 15 in/Hg at idle.
Blah, I just wanna pay someone at this point to get this fixed, I want her to purr at 750 like I see everyone elses on the youtube videos
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trickster
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