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Sticky throttle body?!Exhaust leak no boost?!

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Old 03-25-10 | 10:46 AM
  #1  
flipside27's Avatar
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mutt
 
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From: DETROIT
Sticky throttle body?!Exhaust leak no boost?!

the car is a 10AE

1) i was driving at around 3k in 3rd gear and was taking a turn. shifted into 2nd, and when i let off the clutch i noticed that the car was accelerating without my foot on the gas!

i stopped the car and the car was idling at around 3k and the throttle cable still had play. Does this sound like sticky butterflies? If so, how do i go about fixing it?


2) my boost guage hasnt worked since i bought the car. But the turbo is apparently fine, just seems a little sluggish. I do have a massive leak somewhere near the turbo manifold or the exhaust itself (getting checked out this weekend)

would a gasket leak of any form effect the turbo enough for me to notice?

thanks guys for the help
Old 03-25-10 | 11:07 AM
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Did someone swap a Toyota engine into the car?

Check the rotation of the throttle plates by hand. If for some reason they did stick part way open, unintended acceleration is definitely possible.

And a leak in either of the exhaust gaskets before the turbo will cause a leak big enough to hurt performance.
Old 03-25-10 | 11:23 AM
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mutt
 
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From: DETROIT
thanks so much!
and ironicly i just wrote an essay on "if those toyotas were manuals no one would have died"

but yeah! so there is alot of play in the rotating teeter totter ( i guess thats what its called.)
im guessing the plates could be getting stuck open durring the area with the slack?
is there an adjustment screw anywhere?

someone told me ill have to remove the entire UIM in order to clean out carbon buildup in the butterflies. the car was stored
for over a year before i bought it...

and thanks, im sure the gasket is the biggest problem then with the boost. its the loudest "pft* sound ive ever heard haha
Old 03-26-10 | 09:02 PM
  #4  
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mutt
 
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From: DETROIT
anyone??
Old 03-28-10 | 04:35 PM
  #5  
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The throttle cable has 2 nuts that you can adjust where it goes through the bracket on the side of the UIM. Adjust it so there's no slack in the cable, but not so much that the plates are pulled open. If you want to thoroughly clean the TB, you do have to remove the UIM & TB together. The intercooler bracket prevents removing just the TB itself. But I don't think you need to go that far. Pull the intercooler and spray some carb cleaner (or similar solvent) into the compression tube attached to the TB. Move the throttle plates around as you do this, and hopefully you'll get enough around the pivot points to clear out anything that might be built up. Other than that you can just open/close the plates by hand to feel for any stiffness. Open them up, then let go to be sure they're snapping all the way back.
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