StayRotated

Hello all,
I'm working with a '88 GXL N/A.
-I noticed a coolant leak coming from my waterpump housing, so I replaced that gasket and the waterpump gasket (this is the second gasket, as I replaced the waterpump/gasket roughly 4 months ago, which I've only put about 600 miles on)
-While doing this I also removed the air pump.
-I ordered the RP dual alt pulley, and installed that in the process.
-I also drained the cooling system, and filled with distilled water to do a flush.
-I also left the belts off of my AC/PS because I plan to remove those after I get the car mobile again.
-And on top of it all, I went through all the grounds and sanded/cleaned those.

I finished all of this work today and went to start the car, turned over and ran for about 30 seconds then stalled out.
I checked everything over and the MAF was not fully connected. I reconnected that then tried again. It wouldn't start, as if it was flooded. I also noticed it turns over much faster than previously ( I assume that is from the lack of AC/PS and airpump belts.
I pulled the EGI fuse, turned it over, re-installed EGI fuse, turned it over and after about 3 rotations I got a gunshot like backfire, but alas it still wont start.

Just looking for suggestions on where to go from here.
All work (except air pump removal) was done following the FSM.

I apologize for the Novel, But i didn't leave out any details.
Thanks in advance

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Fully deflood the engine...not just a 3 second fuse pull.
And take the plugs out and clean them,they are probably soaked with fuel after your 30 second cranking.

RRR Motorsports

take the plugs out , pull the egi , and crank the motor to clear everything out of the housings

Darryl C

Hi. I have done the same procedure as given in the good advice above on my Cosmo to remedy my flooded 20b and get it going. But sometimes you can be away from home and have your car flood or it is the middle of the night ( ie start up your cold car to move it and shut it done again without warming it up to hot, classic 20b flooding cause )
I read the following advice somewhere and it has worked every time for me anyway. Turn key to full off position - where you would remove it from the barrel, slowly depress accelerator to floor and hold it there, turn key back on and crank over till it fires up, has always fired up for me although a bit rough till it clears.
Have done this when I have no access to tools etc, hope you have some luck with yours.
Cheers Darryl

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

88's will give you Full throttle at the full depress of a pedal..where 89-91 will give you "flood clear".So it won't work in this case Darryl.

Darryl C

cheers Mr S, yep mines a 91. Sorry for putting ya wrong on that.
All the best with it.

StayRotated

So a little update,
I pulled all my plugs both leading were soaked, both trailing were a little gunky.
I wire brushed them all, and de flooded, still no start.

The Starter spins quite fast, and doesnt really sound like compression is building.
I personally never checked the compression, but the previous owner supplied a paper that showed both rotors had ~90lbs on all three faces.

I mentioned before that I had gotten it too fire but as soon as idle settled it stalled, this was due to the MAF being unplugged.

StayRotated

and by ~90 lbs I mean they were all mid to high 90s

sorry for the double post

StayRotated

didn't see an edit feature on my previous posts,
I pulled the spark plugs and egi to deflood am getting almost like a clicking sound from i believe my rear rotor.
possible apex seal failure?