dave1986

i was checking vaccuum at the boost sensor with a helper, vaccuum increased normally as I raised the rpm. the engine will not accelerate smoothly while the throttle is slowly depressed. I am going to check the wastegate for smooth operation and the BAC sensor. Any chance I have fuel injector wires mixed up when installing the n/a harness to the turbo motor?

dave1986

I found a problem, the control rod on the exhaust manifold did not move at start up ( engine warm) or at higher rpm (4000). I seems seized, any advice on fix or repair is appeciated. Does this make sense on engine sputtering at higher rpm?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could use a continuity test on the secondary injectors to tell if you have them on the right injectors. Do you have the TPS set properly? G/R wire should read 1 volt w/key to on and engine fully warmed up.

On a side note, do you have the spak plug wires running to the correct plugs? Leading goes to lower plugs and trailing runs to the top positions.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might be talking about the actuator for the Twin Scroll. See if the info in this link means anythhing.


https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...remove-852868/

satch

iTrader: (1)

When I was referring to a boost leak I meant at the turbo. And the BAC is for assisting idle when the engine is under some load which would cause the idle to drop under 750 rpm and the BAC is supposed to prevent this from happening so it's not your problem.

dave1986

I am going away for the weekend with my family but I will be spending a full day on Tuesday with the car and go over the list of possibilities you gave me, I will pick up a vac pump and a new vac gauge(mine didnt work) to help with the diagnostics. thanks again.

dave1986

I checked the voltage at the twin-scroll turbocharger solenoid valve, the manual says it should read 2 vdc below 2700 rpm and 12 vdc above 2700 rpm. It reads 16 vdc at any rpm.
Just out of curiousity I checked the voltage at the three other solenoid valves(orange, gray, blue) and they read 16 vdc also.
what do you guys think?
I am going back to the garage to check vaccuum and voltage at the boost sensor when raising the rpm.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I would say you have a battery/charging problem. W/key to on the best you should get is 12 volts or so and w/the car running the alternator should only output 14.4 volts tops.

The B/W wire supplies power to the solenoids so this is probably where you are getting the 16 volt reading from. Either way this is too much voltage for the electrical circuits and damage can be done if this were to persist.

dave1986

I agree, it seems like a wiring problem with these voltage readings.
I just got back from the garage, here are some of the results.
1 TPS- 2vdc at idle, 4.6 vdc at part to wide open throttle.
2 Boost sensor (BR/R wire) 2.7 vdc with vac line off - 1.3 vdc vac line attached.
3 Twin-scroll turbocharger solenoid valve 14vdc( not 16 as previously mentioned )any RPM
4 Cold start assist not working, any RPM. (runs fine after 2min warm up)
5 switching valve or wastegate valve, no movement at any RPM

I took the voltage reading for all the solenoids in the left side of the connectors(front of the car) and body ground.

satch

iTrader: (1)

#1. Should read 1 volt but this is w/the engine as hot as it can possibly get. If the engine is fully warmed up and it does not read 1 volt then it can be adjusted via the TPS screw (and the wire being tested here is Green/Red),

#2. This is within spec.

#3. Are you certain the plug is connected to the right solenoid. Each of these solenoids has two wires, one is B/W which supplies 12 volts to the solenoid w/key to on and the other wire is Blue/Black so make sure this is the correct wire color. And the wire runs to pin 2K.

#4.Cold start should rev to 3000 rpm for 17 seconds then drops to 1500 before it slowly drops to 750. Which of these aspects is not working?

#5. Not really familiar w/turbo setups.

And 14 volts is better than the previously reported 16 volts.

dave1986

1 - OK
2 - Good
3 - I will check
4 - I have to give it gas for a min or 2 or it will stall, after that runs fine.
5 - the manual says the control rod on the switching actuator will start to move above 2700 rpm.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Common sense would state that if the Twin-Scroll Solenoid is to be activated at the 2700 rpm threshold and the control rod is supposed to move at the same rpm then they are part and parcel to the same system so the solenoid needs to be working for the rod to actuate.

And the two wire plug is Green for this solenoid.

dave1986

I agree and feel like we are narrowing it down to a wiring problem, I just came back from the garage and metered 14 vdc from all 4 solenoid connectors on any of the 8 pins, at any rpm, this is obviously not right. I will go over the wiring at X15 and X16 carefully to make sure everything is as the link in the link.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I believe on your turbo you will have five solenoids ( relief, switching, twin scroll, EGR and pressure regulator control valve). Thing is all of these run directly to the ECU and not through any intermediate connector such as X-15 or X-16. Another thing is do you have a Jspec ECU or a Usdm ECU? I don't believe the Jspec ECU/engine has the emission solenoids (not all of these are emission related ) that the U.S. versions have so this might be your problem.

dave1986

I purchased a right hand drive car frim tiger direct in Toronto, I installed the ECU from it (N319), my original ECU is a N326. Should I just try the N326

satch

iTrader: (1)

The ECU you are currently using is going to be problematic as it does not match up properly with a U.S. version in regards to the wiring pinout and I do not know of an accurate translation as to the version you installed. The Japanese RX7 doesn't have the same features as ours and a perfect example would be the 3000 rpm cold start warmup. You mentioned yours did not work and know you know why. You need a turbo ECU to run a turbo engine so the N326 NA model you have is not going to cut it. Listed below are the ECU's used for American models. So, you need the N332 and most if not all your problems will disappear into thin air.

There are stickers on the ECU that give the part code.

N326 - 86-87 NA
N332 - 87 Turbo
N327 - 88 NA
N333 - 88 Turbo
N338 - 88 Vert
N350 - 89 NA California
N351 - 89 NA
N352 - 89 Vert California
N353 - 89 Vert
N370 - 89 Turbo
__________________

dave1986

Satch, my hats off to you. This is the post I have been waiting to send out.
1 - changed the ECU from the N319 to the N332.
2 - checked voltage at the twin scroll solenoid - 2vdc at idle - 12vdc above 2700rpm
3 - switching actuator and valve working fine (very excited)
4 - test drive........Wow does this car ever go!
5 - cold start up working, all gauges working, no hesitation what so ever.

Thanks again, beers on me!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear.

dave1986

Its people like you and this club that keep guys like me going, when I first bought the Rx7, nobody knew anything about the rotary engines, even the mechanics said take it to the dealer. It scared me into thinking that I was in trouble for trying a different technology but after playing around with the rotary and seeing the possibilities from such a great platform, I am even more excited than before. Watch out internal combustion engines, we are not going away any time soon! I will be out on the streets looking for you!
From Exhaust Leak, dave 1986.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Out on the streets looking for me?

Geesh!..we KNEW where you were for 3 weeks!..in your garage!..hahhahahaha!
I was on the road looking for YOU...lol!

lastfc3

at least your car starts... swapped ot my n/a to turbo cant get it started used t2 wire harness though is there a reason you kept n/a harness??? i switched out all maf ecu fuel computer still nothing I may need to investigate fuel pump relay though....tired of this fc....

lastfc3

one more thing I have a 333 ecu from 88 will that work on 87 t2??? it should right???

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

yes it will work.
just verify that your injectors are LO impedance and your harness has the resistor pack.(usually an 88 N/A is HI impedance,no resistor pack on harness)
A harness with NO resistor pack requires a HI impedance injector.
ALL ECU's want to see HI on these cars.

Using the N/A harness is really just as easy as the TII harness,but BOTH require some modification if you have an N/A car putting a TII engine in it.
I can type all day so it's your turn..Threads a plenty on this subject.