Rx7 engine pull, and tranny pull,
#2
For the engine use wrenches and sockets. For the tranny use latex gloves. And never your mouth. Jk. There are hundreds of threads or just check out rotaryressurection.com in the tips section. Gl
#4
If you're not familiar with removing engines from cars... Label each hose, plug, and line that you remove. Write down the label on a piece of paper. When you reinstall the engine, you can reattach each wire, plug, hose, etc. and mark it off; ensuring that you've not forgotten any connections. The BEST thing to have is a factory service manual. You're essentially wanting to remove anything that is holding the engine in the engine bay.
I prefer to remove the transmission with the engine. If you choose to do so, I recommend removing the radiator and fan shroud from the engine bay (or the electric fan if you have a series five) and the shifter from the transmission. Unbolt the oil cooler from where it mounts. You can leave the oil cooler lines attached to the engine and oil cooler. Tie the oil cooler and lines to the front of the engine while pulling it. (If you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, remove the oil cooler and lines.) Unbolt the power steering/AC bracket from the engine. You can pull it up toward the strut tower, away from the engine. Tie it back with some rope or something, to keep it out of the way. Unbolt the exhaust, transmission mounts, and engine mounts. My car sat too low, so I had to jack the front end up enough to get the engine hoist (cherry picker) under the front subframe. Hook up the engine hoist to the proper hoisting/pulling points. Hoist the engine slowly. By these steps, you've got it on the run. It would be best to have a helper... One person to hoist the engine high enough and pull the engine hoist back, and the other person to steady the engine and transmission by hand.
You always have the option to remove the engine without the transmission. Things can get a bit messy when removing the transmission with the engine. Be sure to properly plug all holes, ports, openings or whatever may contain any sort of liquid. If you're feeling ambitious, you can drain all liquids.
I'm sure I may be forgetting some things, but you get the picture. I did this with a friend of mine about six years ago. We had no experience with cars at all. We managed to get the engine and transmission out just fine, though.
I live about 30 minutes north of Auburn.
I prefer to remove the transmission with the engine. If you choose to do so, I recommend removing the radiator and fan shroud from the engine bay (or the electric fan if you have a series five) and the shifter from the transmission. Unbolt the oil cooler from where it mounts. You can leave the oil cooler lines attached to the engine and oil cooler. Tie the oil cooler and lines to the front of the engine while pulling it. (If you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, remove the oil cooler and lines.) Unbolt the power steering/AC bracket from the engine. You can pull it up toward the strut tower, away from the engine. Tie it back with some rope or something, to keep it out of the way. Unbolt the exhaust, transmission mounts, and engine mounts. My car sat too low, so I had to jack the front end up enough to get the engine hoist (cherry picker) under the front subframe. Hook up the engine hoist to the proper hoisting/pulling points. Hoist the engine slowly. By these steps, you've got it on the run. It would be best to have a helper... One person to hoist the engine high enough and pull the engine hoist back, and the other person to steady the engine and transmission by hand.
You always have the option to remove the engine without the transmission. Things can get a bit messy when removing the transmission with the engine. Be sure to properly plug all holes, ports, openings or whatever may contain any sort of liquid. If you're feeling ambitious, you can drain all liquids.
I'm sure I may be forgetting some things, but you get the picture. I did this with a friend of mine about six years ago. We had no experience with cars at all. We managed to get the engine and transmission out just fine, though.
I live about 30 minutes north of Auburn.
#6
I did not specify this above... But I am only familiar with removing the 13B and 13BT from the S4 and S5 FC's.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
#7
I did not specify this above... But I am only familiar with removing the 13B and 13BT from the S4 and S5 FC's.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
Trending Topics
#10
just took one out and put one in. i actually had to get the harness off the motor so i had to take off the intake and undo the metal lines that sit under it. basically i just pulled out the bolts that held it down, picked up on em a little, and worked the wires back out from under it. didn't completely remove the metal lines. intake yes tho. i took the fan and rad out and moved both ways with trans attached. unbolting is relatively simple. undo the motor mounts from the bottom. that way it won't be inclined to sag b4 you're ready to hook up your hoist. i had mine on a lift. you will drop trans fluid on the floor when you pull the motor out! drain it or take it off before you pull the motor. it's not hard to unbolt. it's just heavy. you're gonna want an extra hand or a stand or something. i managed to get mine back together relatively easy. you need a 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 mm. and a 1 inch. the oil line on the bottom left of the motor was a weird size between 7/8 and 1 or 1&1/16. i found a big wore out 7/8" socket to fit that one. oh, that's not required, i was swapping. it's not that big a job dude. you can get it. took me one day to get it out, one day to get it in, and a day to go through and replace minor things and trouble shoot some stuff, but it's running great. pay attention to lines. i took pictures everywhere they hooked up and how. get where they come from. if you can't get to something, try to move something out of the way first. good luck!!!
#11
It all went smooth took me about 5 hours with a buddy, removed the wires from the ecu and pulled them through the firewall. On the oil cooler lines I removed the clips and the lines pulled right off. Now I am trying to get the tranny of the engine , it's unbolted and I can spin it independently from the engine but it won't come apart
#13
Hey, saw this thread n want to ask a question. A buddy of mine is having trouble splitting the 2, unfortunately the clip inside is jammed solid, does anybody have any ideas on how to free it up so we can split them. Weve pryed at it with screwdrivers, undone the bell housing to see if it would give a bit of movement but nothing and we dont wanna pry too hard incase we damage it totally. Cheers.
#14
Spendyrx,
I ended up taking the inspection cover on the top of the tranny off, and removing the pressure plate bolts one at a time, and spinning the engine getting each one. Than I was able to get the tranny off
I ended up taking the inspection cover on the top of the tranny off, and removing the pressure plate bolts one at a time, and spinning the engine getting each one. Than I was able to get the tranny off
#16
I think you can stick a flat head screw drive in through the inspection plate, press that against the metal ring that hold the TOB to the pressure place, that will free the tranny up from the engine.
#17
Well first unbolt your driveshaft from underneath the car. Then next are the tranny mounts (just 4 bolts to unscrew). Uhm The motor mounts should be no problem. If you dont already have a cherry picker go to freight and harbor. They're usually about $170. You will need about 3+ people for safety and guidance of the engine+tranny.
#18
lone wolf
has anyone pulled the motor and box out by them self?
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
#19
Profile says FC, with which I'm not that familiar.
But speaking for the FD, it's easier with two but not impossible. An engine hoist with a load leveler, which allows you to tilt the assembly as needed to clear things makes it a lot easier as well.
But speaking for the FD, it's easier with two but not impossible. An engine hoist with a load leveler, which allows you to tilt the assembly as needed to clear things makes it a lot easier as well.
#20
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 133
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
has anyone pulled the motor and box out by them self?
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
It was a piece of cake...Mmm..Cake..nom,nom,nom..(sorry hungry!)
Ya,If the oil is out of the Transmission then it makes it "cleaner" to take out and doesn't leave a Trail of gear oil!
If you unbolt the trans under the car,juts make sure it is supported by a jack of some sort so you can move it out of the way when you get to taking the engine/Trans out of the engine bay.
It may take a wiggle or 2 but they usually just slide right out.
Suggestion would be to either have a load leveler on the engine hoist or when you get it half way up,rest it on the subframe so you can re-arrange the chain as the tail stock needs to clear the firewall.
PS: my brothers a PR*** so he would get along with your brother just fine..lol!
#21
You could probably do it yourself but I mean another person is definitely needed, both for safety and for help. Personally I wouldn't try it alone in fear or having noone to help me if something goes wrong. I pulled my trans out with my engine all at once in my 83 which wasn't too bad. You should be good man, just get a second set of hands, take you're time, and make sure not to bang you're engine around trying to wiggle it out. Cheers.
#22
I've pulled 2 engines alone with a come along chained around rafters in my garage. Luckily I'm good at spackling though cause I left a hole in the roof ha. It's easy to do if you are positive everything is freed from the engine. Shouldn't take 2 people, unless you want someone there for back up.