toxindm

I have an rx7 fc S5 GXL and I have error code one.(Code: 1)
I know what the code is, but would like someone with some knowledge to explain to me what it means and how to fix it. Could it be miswiring or do I need a new trailing coil? Anyways thanks if your able to answer this as this is the last error code I need to fix.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Is it a Secret Code?
would you share it with the Forum so someone can say "this is what that code is"?
S5's can throw multiple codes.
There should be threads on how to pull codes too..(I'm S4 so I don't have to worry about Codes..or James Bond decoder rings!)

toxindm

Lol...... I said I got error code 1 :p

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Sorry about that..I'm currently reading 100 threads a night.quickly..
I saw error code,and expected a Number not the word ONE...apologies!

Error code: 10-4..Rodger Dodger..over and out!
EDIT: yes I edited your Title NOW to reflect your CODE..
Damn Code ONE people.This guy needs Help!

toxindm

Lmao.... Thanks. This is too funny though

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Look what I found:

So, I've got a code, what does it mean?

See below for the exact meaning according to the Shop Manual. Read on for actually interpreting that code... Note that if you get multiple codes, there may really only be ONE thing wrong. Much of the system interacts with several components, so a single failure may "cascade" into multiple troubles. Use your brain (or a trusted mechanic) to determine the most likely cause of the problem. It is doubtful, for example, that your Intake air sensor, altitude compensation sensor, intake airflow meter, and TPS are all bad. Its more likely you have a loose electircal connection and a vacuum leak. The components are quite reliable, so always suspect the simple solution first. It is normally the cheapest as well. (A vacuum hose is pennies, but a TPS is hundreds of dollars.)

The Codes - from the 1990 Service Manual (86-88 do NOT match!)

Code - Input Device - Fail-safe operation mode
01 - Ignition Coil (Trailing) - Trailing ignition pulse cut
02 - Crank Angle Sensor (Ne) - Fuel Injection and ignition cut
03 - Crank Angle Sensor (G) - Fuel Injection and ignition cut
08 - Airflow Meter (AFM) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing (Cripple mode)
09 - Water Thermosensor - Coolant temp fixed at 176F
10 - Intake Air Thermosensor (AFM) - Intake air fixed at 68F
11 - Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine) - Intake air fixed at 68F
12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
13 - Pressure Sensor (intake manifold pressure) - Fixed at 29.9 inHg
14 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Inside of ECU) - Fixed at 29.9 inHg
15 - Oxygen Sensor - Feedback cancelled
17 - Feedback System (poss O2 sensor) - Feedback cancelled
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
20 - Metering Oil Pump (MOP) position sensor - Basic Fuel Inj and fixed timing
27 - MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing
37 - MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing

Code - Output Device
25 - Solenoid, Pressure Regulator Control
26 - MOP (Step Motor)
30 - Solenoid, Split Air Valve
31 - Solenoid, Relief Valve
32 - Solenoid, Switch Valve
33 - Solenoid, Port Air Valve
34 - Solenoid, Bypass Air Control (BAC) Valve
38 - Solenoid, Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS)
40 - Solenoid, Auxiliary Port (6PI) Valve
41 - Solenoid, Variable Dynamic Effect Intake (VDI)
51 - Fuel pump resistor relay
71 - Injector (Front secondary)
73 - Injector (Rear secondary)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Now,I had a Trailing coil problem on one of my cars,and it turned out to be faulty/fouling plugs due to bad ratio of premix.
I have had a bad trailing coil too.
So I can suggest to change plugs.reset and see if the code goes away.
If not try another trailing coil.
After that..I dunno..Secret Decoder ring doesn't have that Option!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Has the patient recovered,or did it need a Transplant.
you know damn Doctors after a CODE ONE..they don't tell ya nothing!

jmike575

hope this helps

toxindm

Haha the car is running fine at least now that I changed the water thermosensor, but now it takes about a 5sec crank to start it up and AWS doesn't kick in either. The coil I feel will probably have to do with wiring with the tach but haven't had time to check it as it was christmas. I will update on this weekend as the pressure sensor that I ordered comes in the mail on friday, and since whoever had this car before me put the wrong one -__- had an n327 and its an S5 n327 are for s4's -___-

jmike575

glad to hear it

toxindm

although I just test drove it for about 30 min it was fun and all, but still had a couple of Fuel cuts from what it felt like, I had my foot pressed on the gas and when I hit a bump it would cut so I'd just clutch kick it and the car would turn back on. I have recently found that also from the previous owner the air intake box is broken and duct taped and all as a fix; I feel as if air is probably coming out through there and not fulling going through all the way so that's another problem. The gas cuts I know are mainly through sensors so will recheck later on to see what my check engine light is telling me hopefully the water thermosensor is gone at least. I only have 3 check engine lights so far resolved one from the feels of the car and hopefully 2 by this weekend. And maybe once I change the Pressure sensor I won't have fuel cuts? I hope so -__- at least its not all boggy and violently jerky anymore fuels cuts went down so its seeming good at least on that note.