On the road again... couple quarks!
#26
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Doing it by the starter won't help. How much did you rotate the main pulley as it has to be a fair amount. And are you sure the meter lead is making good contact as this is one measurement which seems to give others problems (reading could also be taken from the ECU), or you could also unplug the connector at the coil for better access as it does not need to be plugged in to take a proper reading.
Last edited by satch; 10-14-16 at 06:48 PM.
#27
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Not sure if I can get to this again tonight, hopefully, but tomorrow for sure.
Cheers.
#28
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It's definitely a tricky spot to get a good reading. I rotated it plenty, but it's worth another check to see if the reading was faulty. If it's not getting the full 5v, what would be next to check?
Not sure if I can get to this again tonight, hopefully, but tomorrow for sure.
Cheers.
Not sure if I can get to this again tonight, hopefully, but tomorrow for sure.
Cheers.
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Ok, back at it... definitely nothing over 0.3v when hand cranked at said g/y wire up near the coil. CAS connection looks solid.
Not sure what's meant by 'pin 1v of ecu is the g/y wire', if you're willing to explain.
Still wondering in my novice thought process that the ecu might be the culprit when you include the tach issue (which originally brought me to the coils). Thoughts?
Thanks.
Not sure what's meant by 'pin 1v of ecu is the g/y wire', if you're willing to explain.
Still wondering in my novice thought process that the ecu might be the culprit when you include the tach issue (which originally brought me to the coils). Thoughts?
Thanks.
#30
Originally Posted by Rough 7
Ok, back at it... definitely nothing over 0.3v when hand cranked at said g/y wire up near the coil. CAS connection looks solid.
Not sure what's meant by 'pin 1v of ecu is the g/y wire', if you're willing to explain.
Still wondering in my novice thought process that the ecu might be the culprit when you include the tach issue (which originally brought me to the coils). Thoughts?
Thanks.
Not sure what's meant by 'pin 1v of ecu is the g/y wire', if you're willing to explain.
Still wondering in my novice thought process that the ecu might be the culprit when you include the tach issue (which originally brought me to the coils). Thoughts?
Thanks.
This test you are performing should be fingering the CAS as your culprit. Thankfully they are also cheap, and very easy to change. I don't recall, did you ever mention restabbing the CAS? This term refers to the factory procedure of aligning the CAS.
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Daniel, appreciate the tip. I used to have one, but it disintegrated over time... and honestly wasn't expecting this to be such an ordeal. Will take a look.
#32
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There are three plugs at the ECU with plug #1 being the largest. It has a Green/Yellow wire which runs to the lead coil (2nd wire from end of plug and bottom row). If you back stab the wire from the rear of the plug you get a top notch connection and it reduces the chance of a bad read at the coil. Plug is connected to ECU for this test and w/key to on.
You could ohm test the CAS at the ECU. One meter lead goes to pin 1N (Green wire) and the other lead to pin 1P (Blue wire) and this is done w/the plug removed and the ohm reading should be between 110 to 210 ohms. Same test is performed using pins 1T (Red wire) and 1Q (White wire).
You could ohm test the CAS at the ECU. One meter lead goes to pin 1N (Green wire) and the other lead to pin 1P (Blue wire) and this is done w/the plug removed and the ohm reading should be between 110 to 210 ohms. Same test is performed using pins 1T (Red wire) and 1Q (White wire).
Last edited by satch; 10-17-16 at 06:23 PM.
#34
Originally Posted by Rough 7
Daniel, appreciate the tip. I used to have one, but it disintegrated over time... and honestly wasn't expecting this to be such an ordeal. Will take a look.
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Gents, first all of the input is great and much appreciated. I did DL the FSM and it looks like section 5 is my ticket and I'll go back over the published tests if needed.
That said, this is what I found regarding Satch's tests (the last round of which I haven't found in the FSM yet, probably looking in the wrong place).
Ohm gauge measured ~160 ohms across the red and white wire connection
4.5 ohms across green and blue wires (right next to each other on the top row)
0.3V with the positive on the G/Y wire and negative grounded
Thoughts?
Again, thanks for the feedback, sorry to be a pain!
That said, this is what I found regarding Satch's tests (the last round of which I haven't found in the FSM yet, probably looking in the wrong place).
Ohm gauge measured ~160 ohms across the red and white wire connection
4.5 ohms across green and blue wires (right next to each other on the top row)
0.3V with the positive on the G/Y wire and negative grounded
Thoughts?
Again, thanks for the feedback, sorry to be a pain!
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Also, the voltage test on the g/y wire was done with everything plugged in and the ignition set to 'on'. The ohm tests were performed with the ignition on 'on' and the ecu plug removed.
#38
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Gents, first all of the input is great and much appreciated. I did DL the FSM and it looks like section 5 is my ticket and I'll go back over the published tests if needed.
That said, this is what I found regarding Satch's tests (the last round of which I haven't found in the FSM yet, probably looking in the wrong place).
Ohm gauge measured ~160 ohms across the red and white wire connection
4.5 ohms across green and blue wires (right next to each other on the top row)
0.3V with the positive on the G/Y wire and negative grounded
Thoughts?
Again, thanks for the feedback, sorry to be a pain!
That said, this is what I found regarding Satch's tests (the last round of which I haven't found in the FSM yet, probably looking in the wrong place).
Ohm gauge measured ~160 ohms across the red and white wire connection
4.5 ohms across green and blue wires (right next to each other on the top row)
0.3V with the positive on the G/Y wire and negative grounded
Thoughts?
Again, thanks for the feedback, sorry to be a pain!
Secondly, ohm tests do not involve voltage, so turning the key to on is a no no, although it doesn't come into play here since you had the plug at the ECU housing the CAS wires disconnected.
Last edited by satch; 10-18-16 at 11:42 AM.
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Ok, I ran the tests wrong. With everything plugged in, but key not in the ignition I'm getting the following numbers:
Red/White wires read 160 ohms
blue and green wires read 3350 ohms
Red/White wires read 160 ohms
blue and green wires read 3350 ohms
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At the ECU, the largest plug - plug #1 (as referenced above) is plugged in, (so it's connected with the ECU, or another example: like I'm charging my iphone by plugging it in) and I'm taking readings by poking the volt meter into the back. That's where I am getting 160 ohms across the red/white wires and 3350 across the blue/green ones.
In the engine bay, right near the CAS the affiliated plug includes the following wires: red, green, white and black/white on one side of the plug that runs straight into the CAS. When I run a ohms test between the red/white on this side of the plug it reads 160 ohms and then again with the green and black/white wires it reads 160 ohms again. On the other side of the same plug there are red, white, green and blue wires. When I run the meter across the blue/green wires it reads 160 ohms and red/white it reads 160 ohms. So doesn't seem to have much trouble there, although I didn't run a test from one side of the plug to the connected wire on the other side (red to red, white to white, etc.).
In all of these tests the key was out of the ignition.
In the engine bay, right near the CAS the affiliated plug includes the following wires: red, green, white and black/white on one side of the plug that runs straight into the CAS. When I run a ohms test between the red/white on this side of the plug it reads 160 ohms and then again with the green and black/white wires it reads 160 ohms again. On the other side of the same plug there are red, white, green and blue wires. When I run the meter across the blue/green wires it reads 160 ohms and red/white it reads 160 ohms. So doesn't seem to have much trouble there, although I didn't run a test from one side of the plug to the connected wire on the other side (red to red, white to white, etc.).
In all of these tests the key was out of the ignition.
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#46
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Secondly, when you tested the G/Y wire at the ECU
1. Did you have the key to on.
2. Was the ECU plug connected to the ECU.
3. What did you use as a ground source for the meter.
4. Did you do this test by yourself, and if so, did you have the meter in the engine bay so you could read its result.
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The upper range should be 210 ohms so it's close but not sure if it's a red flag or not. I would lean to it not being an issue versus it being an issue.
Secondly, when you tested the G/Y wire at the ECU
1. Did you have the key to on.
2. Was the ECU plug connected to the ECU.
3. What did you use as a ground source for the meter.
4. Did you do this test by yourself, and if so, did you have the meter in the engine bay so you could read its result.
Secondly, when you tested the G/Y wire at the ECU
1. Did you have the key to on.
2. Was the ECU plug connected to the ECU.
3. What did you use as a ground source for the meter.
4. Did you do this test by yourself, and if so, did you have the meter in the engine bay so you could read its result.
#48
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How much is the main pulley being turned. Is it at least a full turn. And you could use pin 3A (found in the smallest plug top right position, Black wire) of the ECU for the meter ground. And if need be try unplugging the lead coil from the plug w/the B/Y and G/Y wires.
Last edited by satch; 10-19-16 at 07:53 PM.
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