Hello guys, have a probelm that may stem (I hope) from electrical/ignition issues. I posted a small part in the "Introduce yourself" forum, incase it was missed, here goes:

Just traded off a car for a 87 FC N/A. When I towed it back to my garage, I let it sit for the night and went to start it the next morning. After pumping the gas a few times I had it holding an idle, only if I left my foot on the gas and kept the clutch in. If I were to let off either pedal or try to shift into a gear the car would shut off. Now, the car came with a keyless entry system and a remote starter with an alarm. Just for hahas changed the battery in the remote and lo and behold the car started fine and held an idle without having to hold and pedals. I could now even shift and drive it. Using the remote I'm able to set the alarm, lock/unlock the doors, but I can't start the car. I found a killswitch (I'm assuming) on the driver's side floor, but it doesn't make a difference with the remote (wont start with the remote, I hear the electronics kick in but no engine turnover), or the key (car starts regardless switch position). Anyways, I start back up the car, let it warm up and go to take it around the block. Theres 2 problems I notice instantly. One the car lacks power, step on it as I want, it makes no difference, it slowly climbs to speed. 2) The idiot panel kicks on telling me low coolant. Pull it back into the driveway, let it cool down, I check the coolant, it's full. Both the radiator cap and the cap by the engine are full. I also notice what I'm assuming is the thermostat housing has fresh silicone around it, maybe the thermostat is put in wrong?

Furthermore, I look around the ignitors, some wires are unplugged and no idea what their use is, some pictures:



The two green ones, and the black one in between my fingers^^



The cylindrical one on my finger ^^



Possibly for diagnostics? ^^



Wire secured safely like a garden hose? Nice safety feature ^^



Same wire with hose off, leads to behind firewall ^^

 

You'll be on your own to figure out if the aftermarket alarm/keyless start stuff was set up properly.

For the coolant warning, the level sensor may be disconnected (top middle of radiator), or you could have air in the system. There's a plastic bleed screw on the top passenger-side or the radiator. Open that up a few turns, or until air can escape past the threads, and top off the coolant level. Add until the level stays constant, no more bubbles appear and coolant starts to seep past the threads on the bleeder screw.

For lack of power, you may want to start with a compression test. A timing check would also be a good idea.

For the pictures:

1) Green plugs are test connectors
2) Black bullet connector is for tach signal, but also there for diagnostics only
3) I don't recognize that white 6-pin plug offhand. I'd need to take a look at my own car.
4 & 5) Some aftermarket thing. Trace the wire back to figure out what it was for.

 

You really DO NOT want the car to Start with the Remote,UNLESS the starting system is only going to allow the car to Start IN NEUTRAL ONLY.(manual auto start system)
There have been TONS of accidents with Auto Start systems starting the car IN gear and then the
car would Take off and Run over or Hit something.
...............
Number 3 connector is not used(normal to see disconnected on some models)
number 4/5 pics: the wire is just "there",and not connected to anything at the Coils OR the firewall,so it is useless,,..but Follow it to see the source..If it goes nowhere then Take it off.

 

Don't pump the gas pedal or it will flood your engine. It sounds like someone replaced the thermostat too, keep an eye on the coolant temperature because it's pretty common that people buy random thermostats for these cars which leads you to run into cooling problems like overheating. Overheating a rotary = blown coolant seal. It's been recommended that you use an OEM thermostat.

 

Thanks for the replies thus far guys.Rotary88, Yes that sensor is plugged in, I will bleed the system tomorrow before I head off to work and hopefully that will fix that issue. Mistery, my friend smashed into his garage through his automatic starter and leaving the car in gear, lol, I never understood the purpose vs risk in a manual transmission with an auto starter. And cab I've read that somewhere too that it's best to go OEM with the Tstat, definately do not want to risk the engine blowing, especially if it isn't already (crosses fingers).

Also looked on the other side of the engine bay and alas, more plugs not connected. One even looks like the connector was ripped off! Will post tomorrow when I have time, just got out of work and beer is calling me. Thanks again!

 

Alright, here's what's left on the passenger side of the "guess where this plug goes" game:




Plugs and where they lead to ^^



Pass side green plug ^^



Black plug near tstat housing ^^



Up close of same plug ^^

 

The first and second pictures MAY be the cold start assist but I'm not positive and the green is just for diagnostic testing, maybe for the air flow meter. Good luck with your car man

 

1) Some aftermarket spade connectors. No way to know what they go to without tracing the wires. Spade connectors like that will always be something someone added.

2) Is this where the spade connectors lead to? That's the split air solenoid, which is useless. It is only used to open up an additional air port to the main cat in 5th gear. In all other gears it does nothing. It's not even necessary to pass emissions tests.

3) Green: Diagnostics plug for TPS. Yellow: Fuel pump test connector. Colored plugs are for testing purposes.

4 & 5) Unused on manual NAs. Automatics had a temperature switch threaded into that hole in the thermostat cover. It was used for a small aux. e-fan in front of the radiator.

 

Thanks alot man! So that wire leading from the ACV won't make it hard to start/hold an idle? I'm back to square one with that....the one where the connectors are ripped off, then a little above and to the right looks like it was either a plug or where wires were ripped out as well. Did the ACV on N/A models have 2 different sets of wires coming out of it?

EDIT: also found out what that red wire tucked into the garden hose does. Evidently if you hold it to the positive terminal on the battery the car tries to start continuously!

 

Nope, the ACV is not involved in idle or starting. It's primarily there to direct air from the air pump to the exhaust. The only possible effect on idle is if a line is disconnected and causing a vac leak.

The solenoid on the ACV that is up and to the right is even less important than the split air solenoid. That's the port air solenoid, which opens a tiny path to the exhaust ports. The primary port air path is 100x larger.

 

Idle problems are typically TPS or vacuum leak related. The AFM can also cause them.

Hard starting is usually flooding due to Mazda's fuel table (when hot) or related to the temperature sensor on the back of the water pump housing (when cold). If the sensor is disconnected, the car will have trouble starting cold, but it will actually start easier when warm.

 

Got you. Now does the timing setup effect starting up as well? Looked in the book to see how to check the timing they said use a light, which I am not able to produce. Also, book stated looking for a yellow dot on the pully to line up with the pin sticking out. Would love to, but the pulley is rusted with no visible signs of anything.

 

Timing is absolutely related to starting. If the CAS has been inserted wrong, you could definitely negatively affect start up. It could also end up blowing the engine with excessive spark advance, or cause power loss if it's rotated the other direction (spark retard).

The main pulley will have two small grooves cut where the yellow and red marks used to be. See if you can find those. You'll have to get a timing light to check.

Another thing you can do is line up the first mark (which used to be yellow) with the pin, remove the cap from the CAS, and check the orientation inside. By first mark I mean the right-hand mark if you're standing in front of the car. Here's a thread with info and a picture: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=CAS.

 

the factory repair manual has alot of pics and wiring info bought mines for 35 bucks on amazon or look at this site it has repair manuals and training manuals you can download http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/

 

Hey guys sorry i been away so long, thanks for the additional replies. So I finally got around to checking the timing, removed the CAS cap lined up the pulley to the pin it looks good. I attempted to take the CAS out (unplugged the sensor, took out the "lock" nut) and I guess its supposed to lift right out, which, it doesn't. Ive tried everything i can think of to get it out. Turned the belts while lifting, tapping it with a hammer, and using a thick screwdriver at the bottom of it while appling pressure from the other end to lift it out. That thing is stuck good ill tell you what! Is this normal?

 

Ya,the CAS is prone to sticking as the casing will get corroded inside where the cAS enters the front cover.There is a small O ring located there too(on the CAS Shaft) to prevent any crap from going down to the gear.,when the Corrosion sets in,it gets real difficult to remove the CAS.
I have gone So far as to Try working on removal from the Bottom of the car,using a long bar and a Sledge,hiting the CAS's Bottom and trying to get it out that way.
IF you can Spray some Lube or Rust/corrosion Inhibitor in the area where the Cas enters the Front cover,Let it sit overnight and try to remove it after the Lubricant has set it,.It may be easier.

 

Thanks man, I'll give that a shot tomorrow am

 

So yesterday I got around to checking the alarm system on the car, as previously stated I suspected a hack job and boy was I right. I noticed alot of misproper groundwork and...ZIPTIES! I pulled the box out from its hiding place to notice 1) 2 snapped wires out of connectors and 2) one connector with a wire burned off of it with the piece off that same connector fried as well as the spot it was plugged into burnt. I went to start the car and what do you know it started right up! Still won't hold an idle on it's own but I think I maybe onto something with that. (I'll explain in a minute)

In order to get the car started everytime, there was a switch I mentioned that I thought was a kill switch. However, it's function puzzles me. Lets say I turn on the car with it in the "on" position, it starts up, if I shut the car off, the car WONT turn back on. Now I put the switch in the "off" position, the car will start up, if I turn the car off, it WONT start again until I flick the switch. So simply, everytime I want to start it, I have to flick the switch first. Weird huh? Another thing I notice even after unpluging everything from the box, that red wire that was covered by the garden hose that would attempt to start the car if in contact with the positive side to the battery STILL tries to start it (wonderful, another wire to trace).

Now about the idle. I notice a bunch of gasket sealant sloppily put around the intake manifold (? what I would call the intake manifold, I don't know if it's referred to differently on these motors?) on the right hand side while your facing the engine. I'm sure a picture will help, I'll snap one in a bit.

 

That switch might be what they call a valet switch does it have three positions?

 

Only 2, cheap advance auto switch

 

From a logical standpoint, I agree 100%. But remember, initially before unplugging all that I wasn't able to take my foot off the clutch or attempt to put it into gear without it shutting off. So having done that, I assume it must have helped something to a degree. I haven't been able to give the car my complete attention either, I have 2 other projects I'm finishing up, actually just finished my MR2 last night (for the most part), and a body to rivet on the AE86. Once that's all done I can concentrate 100 on the RX7

 

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